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DC Fan control Temp probe

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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 09:02 PM
  #1  
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From: Peabody Ma.
Default DC Fan control Temp probe

Have any of you guys had any problems with the temp probe at the end where it plugs in on the controller. I overheated today, fans never came on (a first!) I did some looking around and found that the two wires were not making contact in the blue clip! It looks like they just push in? I did push them back but I have to wait as it was too hot and coolant was every where! Think it will work?
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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It's possible it pulled out. Put the clip back in and put a dab of super glue over the joint and let it dry. It'll hold them together and you can still crack the glue and get the clip out later if you need to.

If the unit continues to fail I would contact Brian and see about getting the unit repaired.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Toss the POS and install relays.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FB007
Toss the POS and install relays.

It's very interesting I almost suggested that very same thing...I was even going to suggest some wiring and control methods. Problem is I know how expensive that controller is. I have one in a box ready to ship back to Brian but for some reason I just hung on to it. It's a good chunk of money and if it works with the plug in it I suggest he use it until it fails and can't be repaired under warranty.
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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From: Peabody Ma.
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The clip did not come out the wires came out of the blue clip! I had relays, and switched to this I like the variable speed. But it makes more sense to go back to the relays! if I had a problem I could jump it out! Looks like I am going back to relays! I hope to get the rest of the driving season out of this controller though. Funny start out with relays, see some thing new, and end right back at square 1.

Any part#'s for Coolant temp switch? I have Edelbrock heads and the tapped hole is not the same size as what I can buy at the parts store

Last edited by bruced267; Jul 24, 2008 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bruced267
The clip did not come out the wires came out of the blue clip! I had relays, and switched to this I like the variable speed. But it makes more sense to go back to the relays! if I had a problem I could jump it out! Looks like I am going back to relays! I hope to get the rest of the driving season out of this controller though. Funny start out with relays, see some thing new, and end right back at square 1.

Any part#'s for Coolant temp switch? I have Edelbrock heads and the tapped hole is not the same size as what I can buy at the parts store

Here is a diagram I made for using a Summit T-stat switch that can go in either head, intake manifold, or a water neck with a 1/2" NPT bung.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

The switch above would be the ground for the relay that powers the fan. The switch only closes the ground to complete the circuit when it reaches 185 degrees and it opens the ground and closes the circuit at 165 again. The relay can be triggered by an IGN or ACC source, powered from the battery or starter, and obviously grounded through the switch. The fan power wire will go to the relay as usual and ground to the frame or core support very close to it.


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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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I had the same problem when I installed my electric fans. I soldier the wires together. Then bought a little green LED pin light and connected it to the fan and mounted it inside the cage. Just below the steering wheel at about 7 o'clock. Now when the fans come on so dose the green light. I also installed an over ride switch and put it next to the light. If my dash temp starts to go up and the green light did not come on. I can flip the switch to turn the fans and green light on. No more worries.
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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Default I had the same problem.....

I carefully reinstalled everything and it works just super. The superglue idea sounds like a good plan. I subsequently installed, as an emergency backup, a 70 amp relay which will kick on the fan at full speed if my temperature reaches 195°F. The DC Controller is so good at maintaining a constant temp that I wanted to really keep it. After ensuring that the leads are carefully installed I haven't had any problems.
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