For those who decided to cut their cross member (4 speed cars) to make it removable, I have a question. How on earth did you cut the top section of the cross member?? I've been using my Sawsall and cut the bottom and sides with no problem but the top is a b**tch to get at without hacking up the floor pan bottom. Any past experience would be appreciated.

 

 

Just kidding. I broke off the end of a saw-all blade so on the long stroke it would clear the steel but not hit the floor pan. I never did get a straight cut. After I welded the angles and bolted it together. you won't see where Bubba did his handy work.

 

...however; I wouldn't recommend being that precise...just get a dadgum circular saw with a metal blade...

 

Before cutting the crossmember make your mark with a string. Wrap it around the member and slide it around the circumfrence to square it up before tracing around its length. If you really want to get slick, cut it on a slight angle where the bottom is cut toward the frame rail. This will make dropping it out a little easier. I cut mine with a sawsall starting at the top and working down without hitting the floor. My cut was on the outside about four inches in from the rail because I want room to make new exhaust openings outside the stock ports. If you are going to weld flat plates on the butt end of the member, your cuts can be squared up after the member is removed. If you use 3/16 plates, you will have to make a 6/16ths gap between the two ends to make room. This is the fudge area you have to square up the ends. If you need more, cut an insert from 1/4 inch plate and weld to the inside of the end to help square it and weld the flange to it. The hardest weld is the rail side with the body on. Be sure to cover and protect the fuel lines on the passenger side and brake and possibly fuel vapor line on drivers side from weld arc. Strike an arc on the fuel line and you could be looking for another car project and maybe even a house or garage. This job is infinately easier before the body goes on, for those who are doing a body off. I keep an empty fuel tank when doing that kind of work on my cars.

 

Hey Kim 72, I just did mine a few months ago. I was hesitant but with advice from members I pulled the trigger. What pushed me to do it was I couldn't get the 5sp out. I put the 5sp in with the motor and later had to put the trans out. Later found out you can by unbolting the bellhousing etc. Anyway, like your finding out and what I found out too is the top of the crossmember is hard to get to. Smashed my thumb too. What I wwas using to cut the crossmember was a 9" blade. Trying to use the 9" blade to cut the top is what smashed my thumb. So I thought of using a 6" blade and turning it upside down. Using the cut bottom as you guide. With the 9" blade, it up and down stoke of the sawzaw was too long. The 6" worked as long as you kept the angle right. Kind of like a 45* angle, if you can picture that. I'm gald I did it. In case something happens, I can remove the trans easily. I also made the exhast pipes removible too. Make sure you take a measurement of where your trans bracket is welded to the crossmember. They're not even. That's one thing I forgot to do. That's important because when you cut the crossmember that is off the car and weld the plates, your going to have to make sure that when everything is welded that the welded trans bracket is going to put your trans back to where it was for proper alignement. My mistake, save you a headache later. Here's a few pictures. Got the idea from Bullshark, and help from Gordonm. I changed it alittle. rather than make the plate open like Bullshark, I just made it a flat plate. Here's a few pics. Last pic shows you how far I could only put the trans out. Any other pics you need, just ask. Tony



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Thanks for all the replys. With a lot of patience, I got one side cut yesterday. Looks pretty straight!! Will be cutting the other side today.

Tony: thanks for the tip re: the blade. I'll try that one out. I'll also pre-measure for the trans mount.

This all started when I blew the clutch. I'm fixing it with the plan to be able to remove the trans more easily down the road to install a Tremec 5sp in the future.