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Few months ago my 1970 was on a lift and the mechanic checked the wheel bearings front and back - standard test. Front fine rear would need to be replaced. Then this weekend felt a "grinding" in the right rear when making a hard right turn - thought that won't happen again but it started on straight roads - then got home and parked it. So, I'm going to get the entire assembly since I don't have the tools to do a new spindle and bearings, and if I have someone else do it getting the 38 year old rusted parts out will be lots of labor. SO - what else do I need to do while I there? Brakes have worked perfectly for 10 years - do I dare mess with them/hoses, etc? The spring is absolutely flat and the car does bounce but I thought that could be new shocks? Rubber bumpers yes, what else required -- U-joints? I'm a Jr Mechanic so take it easy on me. Thanks for your help!!! Peter
This is one of those "the leg bone is connected to the knee bone, the knee bone is connected to the thight bone" things and before you know it the whole skeleton is out and apart. I'm not sure of the differences between a 70 and a 77 but ..
Not knowing what you have done or had done to the trailing arm assembly in the past its difficult to say what you should do or what I would do if I were in your shoes. Certainly I wouldnt just replace the brakes on (1) side or replace just (1) shock. You said your going to get the "entire assembly" I take that to mean the entire trailing arm. You will have to drop the 1/2 axel on that side only, shock comes off or is swung out of the way and in doing that the rear spring drops on that side too. I believe when you replace the trailing arm assembly you get everything but the brake shoes, brake lines, e brake cable, maybe the brake rotor or drum, shocks, leaf spring bushing & bolt, rubber bumper at the top of the wheel well on the frame and french clips if they used them in 1970. So whats left?
Depending on the age and condition of the shoes, stiffness of the shocks and condition of the spring bushing and rubber bumper on the frame I'd probably leave it at that. And as you probably have a yearly vehical inspection as we do here in PA they mic the rotors, drums and shoes so you should know from the last inspection what you should have left or at least the general condition of those items. That leaves mabe the rubber items? My opinion only. chuck
Chuck - tnx for the info. When I said trailing arm assembly that includes the complete bearing assembly/spindles, parking brake, etc. In NC there is no sticker/inspection at all for cars 35 years or older. And because I have an antique plate I pay about $10 per year in property tax on the car.
While your T/A is off I'd check the condition of the diff. Maybe remove it, take the cover off, check the gears, and replace the lube. Chances are it's never been changed.
And I wouldn't do just one T/A. If you're doing one then you should do them both IMHO.
While your T/A is off I'd check the condition of the diff. Maybe remove it, take the cover off, check the gears, and replace the lube. Chances are it's never been changed.
And I wouldn't do just one T/A. If you're doing one then you should do them both IMHO.
Did the bearing seize on the spindle? I just did 3 sets of arms, 65,66, and another 66. The last one, one of the 66's, was never touched since it rolled off the line when I was 7 years old. Everything came apart ok and was rebuildable. Of course every job is different but the point is you may be able to save yours rather then just replace the whole setup?
Tnx for all the info - and yes I would do both sides at one time. The bearings have not seized. But, the arms themselves have lots of rust and since it's 38 years young I thought it will be less expensive for me to just replace with a complete assembly. That is I would have to have someone do a rebuilt and with the cost of labor the new stuff would actually be less expensive. Peter
WE have a 71 with alot of rust on the TA seam. I too think that that it might be cheaper/quicker in the long run to buy some that are already done than to rebuild. Has anyone have any comments on the firms that offer the complete units with the SS parking brk that are for sale on that internet auction site?
While your T/A is off I'd check the condition of the diff. Maybe remove it, take the cover off, check the gears, and replace the lube. Chances are it's never been changed.
And I wouldn't do just one T/A. If you're doing one then you should do them both IMHO.