Rear Leaf Spring Help
#1
Rear Leaf Spring Help
Hello everyone. Could you be kind enough to help me out? I am installing a composite leaf spring in the rear of my 1981 Vette. I took off my mufflers and pipes from the catback. Then the cat melted my leaf and broke it. So, now I have a new one and I am trying to install it. How do I compress it to get it in? I have tried everything. It is very dangerous. Are there any manuals that would help? Please help before I get my face taken off.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Team Owner
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Hello everyone. Could you be kind enough to help me out? I am installing a composite leaf spring in the rear of my 1981 Vette. I took off my mufflers and pipes from the catback. Then the cat melted my leaf and broke it. So, now I have a new one and I am trying to install it. How do I compress it to get it in? I have tried everything. It is very dangerous. Are there any manuals that would help? Please help before I get my face taken off.
Thanks
Thanks
You don't need to install it with the car on the ground. Jack the car up so the weight is off of it and it can bow. Don't install the end bolt hardware until the spring is bolted in. Then, you can jack up the spring to meet the trailing arms, and insert the spring bolts.
You might need longer spring bolts depending on your clearance problem and how you want the rear end to sit.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; 08-05-2008 at 09:05 AM.
#3
Le Mans Master
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As BD said, bolt the spring onto the differential first, make sure its square and secure. Place 2 C Clamps on the spring about 3" inboard of the hole at the end of the spring and place a floor jack under the c clamp and jack it up slowly until you can get the end bolts thru the spring. The clamps will keep the jack from sliding on the spring.
Be careful, these parts bite
You might need longes end bolts to get it to sit right with the new spring.
Be careful, these parts bite
You might need longes end bolts to get it to sit right with the new spring.
#4
Drifting
As BD said, bolt the spring onto the differential first, make sure its square and secure. Place 2 C Clamps on the spring about 3" inboard of the hole at the end of the spring and place a floor jack under the c clamp and jack it up slowly until you can get the end bolts thru the spring. The clamps will keep the jack from sliding on the spring.
Be careful, these parts bite
You might need longes end bolts to get it to sit right with the new spring.
Be careful, these parts bite
You might need longes end bolts to get it to sit right with the new spring.
Mine had a lip on the end made for a floor jack to engage and raise.
Or, you can wrap it and then put C-Clamps on it for a jack to rest against as well during raising, just don't go too tight and crack the new spring.
You almost definately have to use longer bolts.
#5
Le Mans Master
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Here's what I found- Seems to be a good idea-especially if you don't want to scratch your spring up. Looks as though it would also work on a composite.
Richard
Richard
#6
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i used a ratchet binder i rapped around the bat wing and ratchet it into place used a vice grip so the binder wouldn't slip alot safer you don't have to worry about a jack slipping it pulled rite into place
#7
Thanks so much guys. Got it with a c-clamp and jack. However like you guys said, it sits way too high now. How do I lower it down? Do longer bolts on the ends of the spring make the ride height lower? How long should they be? Will longer bolts be closer to the ground therefore making ground clearance (more of) a problem?
Thanks
Thanks
#8
Team Owner
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Thanks so much guys. Got it with a c-clamp and jack. However like you guys said, it sits way too high now. How do I lower it down? Do longer bolts on the ends of the spring make the ride height lower? How long should they be? Will longer bolts be closer to the ground therefore making ground clearance (more of) a problem?
Thanks
Thanks
Longer bolts will lower the back of the car. The spring doesn't have to arch as much, so it won't hold it as high.
I think 8" are common for after market glass springs.
They won't affect ground clearance unless you get extreme.
#10
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That's an accident waiting to happen, besides you need a lot more than the few threads at the end of that bolt.
Do it right, get the longer bolts with pin holes, and call it done right.
#11
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Here's what the 8" bolt looks like installed. This was just after reinstalling the entire axle back into the car and haven't driven it yet. The final adjustments are pending. I have 17" wheels w/4" bs; no issue with interference near the inside rim.
Mine were ordered from VB&P and are the nylon lock nuts; the bolt ends are not drilled for a cotter key.
I haven't heard these are a problem and I'll listen in if anyone has had an issue with nylon locknuts failing to hold position.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Mine were ordered from VB&P and are the nylon lock nuts; the bolt ends are not drilled for a cotter key.
I haven't heard these are a problem and I'll listen in if anyone has had an issue with nylon locknuts failing to hold position.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]