need rear end advice?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Morrisonville Illinios
need rear end advice?
I can't seem to get the search feature to work 
and I need to know what is the quickest way to replace the rear end cover on our 71. The old one is cracked( nothing new) and have the new heavy duty one to replace it with. Trying to get it done for FUNFEST 08' So my son can take it. Any assistance would be helped.
Thanks ALREADY
wro87
and I need to know what is the quickest way to replace the rear end cover on our 71. The old one is cracked( nothing new) and have the new heavy duty one to replace it with. Trying to get it done for FUNFEST 08' So my son can take it. Any assistance would be helped.Thanks ALREADY
wro87
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I can't seem to get the search feature to work and I need to know what is the quickest way to replace the rear end cover on our 71. The old one is cracked( nothing new) and have the new heavy duty one to replace it with. Trying to get it done for FUNFEST 08' So my son can take it. Any assistance would be helped.
Thanks ALREADY wro87
and I need to know what is the quickest way to replace the rear end cover on our 71. The old one is cracked( nothing new) and have the new heavy duty one to replace it with. Trying to get it done for FUNFEST 08' So my son can take it. Any assistance would be helped.Thanks ALREADY
wro87i have not done this but I have seen it asked and I remember the easiest way being to remove the half shafts, unbolt the drive shaft, and drop the rear end down.
You'll be able to replace the cover, fluid change, and even the snubber bushing if it's worn out. Check yoke end play while you have it down.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
i have not done this but I have seen it asked and I remember the easiest way being to remove the half shafts, unbolt the drive shaft, and drop the rear end down.
You'll be able to replace the cover, fluid change, and even the snubber bushing if it's worn out. Check yoke end play while you have it down.
You'll be able to replace the cover, fluid change, and even the snubber bushing if it's worn out. Check yoke end play while you have it down.
With a jack under the differential lower it enough to access the 4 bolts securing the diff lid to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember and now you have access to all the lid to case bolts. That's all.
It will make it easier if you undo the spring bolts because that way you won't have to fight the spring to get it all back together again.
An even faster way, but kind of budda is to drill the rear compartment floor to be able to access the 4 bolts. The holes, if carefylly done with a holesaw can easily be plugged with chassis plugs.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You do not have to unbolt the halfshafts or anything, not even the strut rods. You can simply unbolt the strut rod bracket, leave the rods attached. Then lower the diff by undoing the crossmember bolts (easiest with a 2 jaw puller, leave the bolts in to allow the puller to push against them and keep the crossmember from crashing down), you may even leave the driveshaft and pinion mount in place. You may have to loosen the pinion mount.
With a jack under the differential lower it enough to access the 4 bolts securing the diff lid to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember and now you have access to all the lid to case bolts. That's all.
It will make it easier if you undo the spring bolts because that way you won't have to fight the spring to get it all back together again.
An even faster way, but kind of budda is to drill the rear compartment floor to be able to access the 4 bolts. The holes, if carefylly done with a holesaw can easily be plugged with chassis plugs.
With a jack under the differential lower it enough to access the 4 bolts securing the diff lid to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember and now you have access to all the lid to case bolts. That's all.
It will make it easier if you undo the spring bolts because that way you won't have to fight the spring to get it all back together again.
An even faster way, but kind of budda is to drill the rear compartment floor to be able to access the 4 bolts. The holes, if carefylly done with a holesaw can easily be plugged with chassis plugs.
Excellent, that's a lot easier. Shame you missed the thread I read that in. I'm sure someone who asked that last time did what I suggested. Granted, it wouldn't be bad to get it all down and refresh everything...but the OP wanted easy and that's what you explained.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Morrisonville Illinios
Thanks guys I will look into it more. Would like to avoid drilling in the glass at all if I can avoid it. It only has 60K miles on it and trying to keep it as original as possilble.
Would It work better to take down the unit with the upper cross member? We have it on our four post hoist so working on the bottom end isn't that bad.
Thanks wro87
Would It work better to take down the unit with the upper cross member? We have it on our four post hoist so working on the bottom end isn't that bad.
Thanks wro87
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
Hoy, no swat, next time you can post it
