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Just got the car back from the shop for the transmission grinding noise. The opinion around here seemed to be that it would be the pilot bearing. Well...I hate to say it, but for once, all you guys were wrong. ;)
The Throw-out bearing fork busted. A small piece broke off. They only charged me for the part, though, since they replaced the throwout bearing a month or so ago. Saved me a bundle.
Now that that's complete I've gotta replace the water pump. I had the shop confirm that that was the source of my coolant leak.
So...does anyone have any decent instructions for water pump replacement? Is there anything online? Haynes shorts it a bit...skips a few steps. I know it's not a difficult job, but it's another learning step for me.
Also, any warnings for painting the pump? I'm going to throw some paint on before I put it on. Anything I need to be careful about?
Make sure new / rebuilt pump is clean and free of all grease residue prior to painting. (I wiped mine with cleaner, just to make sure), Then tape off the areas that mate up to the block, as well as the end of the pump shaft which bolts up to the pulley and fan. Also suggest you first clean and install the pipe for heater hose prior to painting. I used several light coats and it came out great.
You also may want to clean and paint the pulley and fan (semi-flat black) while you have it apart.
Check the condition of the waterpump bolts you remove, and note each location, as they may be different lengths. You may need to replace with new grade 5 or grade 8 bolts if yours are really rusty. Clean surface on block really well prior to installation, area must be smooth and free of all old gasket material and surface rust. You may want to run a thread chaser down each bolt hole if they were really rusty as well.
Lastly, when you get your new water pump, place on a workbench, and place it next to your old one, and make sure they are exactly the same, as Chevy made both 'long' and 'short' style pumps and you want to get the correct one for your car.
I think but it has been a while, the corvette water pumps have a 3/4 inch diameter shaft for starters where the norm is 5/8s on other pumps. They are correct on making sure you have the correct length..short for vettes? I got mine out of a summit racing catalog..a high flow pump
Neil in Tenn
Get an Aluminum pump. Looks good and you dont have to paint it. I am currently removing my '95 Probe GT's water pump and have been working on it for 4 days. You have to remove the timing belt cover just to get to it....what a PITA. I could have changed out my 71 350's pump 100 times by now. My guess is an 80's is a little more difficult with all the smog stuff and vacuum hoses. It should be a half day job though.
Good Luck
John
Just a trick I found for plugging holes before painting.
Use those foam ear plugs that you squish? before putting them in your ears. They will expand nicely to fill the holes and come out easily when done.