Hi everyone, can't believe it but i don't have a timing light. I've got an MSD 6AL with a Blaster SS coil and an MSD distributor. I've got all kinds of problems (rich smell, drop in idle of 500rpm, backfire out exhaust at 3,000rpm) that seem to point toward either fuel or ignition. I think I've eliminated fuel but ignition is tougher. I tested the coil resistance across the primary and secondary and found the primary to be out of spec (MSD says that isn't a problem). When I turn the distributor to vary the timing there is no change in rpm at all. They have recommended I try it with a timing light. This seems like a stretch but I should have one anyway.

Can anyone recommend a good timing light for an MSD 6AL set up? My thinking is that MSD could cause a lot of noise due to multiple spark.

I'm very close to just ripping it out and putting an HEI in there, but I'll try this first and talk with them again.

Thanks,
Dan

 

I have that exact dist/coil/box.

The MSD site has a forum you might try.

I'd also read the ignition write-up by JohnZ. I have mine set up with the largest bushing (IIRC black) in the dist, 18 degrees initial, and the vacuum can hooked to full vacuum.

After your problems you might not want to buy more MSD stuff but their 8990 light is supposed to be very accurate. I used one for a few years but got sick of having to hook up battery connections and bought the 8991, a battery powered light. I'm not sure if it's as accurate but I really like it. It's a little pricey. If you search around there is a Craftsman that is supposed to be very accurate too. I'm not sure if they still make it...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I have never had or used a better Light than the Equus/Innova 5568 - period!

 

Not a bad light for about a $100!

 

It does cost a little more than that, but it's way better than "not bad"!! Dial back Tach, dwell, rpm, voltmeter - all the the tip of your fingers of ONE hand.

 

 

Exactly; like I said, " Not a bad light for about a $100! "

 

You got it!

 

I am using this with HEI distributor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Equus...Z1218504405718
If you have points you may want this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Equus...Z1218504482906.
They are easy to use and you only have to find 0 degrees on your timing indicator/pointer.
Good luck.

 

A quick google:

According to MSD research, certain types of timing lights with built-in adjusting mechanisms (usually the common “dial back” models) have been proven to be so inaccurate that they produce false readings at speeds in excess of several hundred RPM. Many of these adjustable timing lights also carry very high price tags. Before you purchase such a unit, compare it to a known timing light.

So what if your timing light is off a degree or two at 2,500 RPM? While it might sound like a small amount, keep in mind that whatever error exists in the light at low engine speed levels will be multiplied as the engine speed increases. If the light is off by two degrees at 2,500 RPM, it might be off by six or eight degrees at 6,500 RPM -- and as you can imagine, that happens to be a significant amount of error.

To determine the accuracy of your particular timing light, it should be checked against a digital engine analyzer at speeds below 2,500 RPM. Be certain that your light is installed properly (see below). Unfortunately, you can’t trust all digital analysis equipment over the 2,500-RPM ceiling.

Autotronic Controls Corporation (makers of the MSD ignition systems) recognized this problem and began to test a rather large number of available timing lights. Through this testing, they decided to develop their own timing light (P/N 8990). Additionally, this testing also revealed that an older model Sears Craftsman Timing Light (P/N A-2134) was considered very reliable and accurate. Both lights are stable and accurate from zero to 8,000 RPM and because of this, they are well suited to a modified (as in “high performance super rod”) application.

We’ve had the opportunity to test these lamps against several well know "professional" models and we found that a few of the other lights were showing much different timing at engine speeds slightly over 1,200 RPM. At the same time, the MSD light and the Sears light were virtually identical in performance. And yes, these two lamps compared favorably with a digital engine analyzer below 2,500 RPM.

http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...-lights-1.html

 

Well of course ours is better, just ask us....

 

I'm old school and have used this one (non-digital) for years.

 

Can anyone give me a quick explanation on how use an adjustable timing light? What is the purpose of the dial?

 

The Craftsman picture shows a dial and numbers (degrees) on the heal. If you set the dial to zero, the timing light acts like a standard model. If you dial in 10*, and your initial timing is 10*, the damper mark will line up with the Zero timing tab mark. This allows for reading timing at various rpm and load. If you do not have a dial-back model, there are other ways. You can install a timing tape (about $5) on your damper. Finally, you can have timing marks scribed on your damper. Some people do this themselves, as it is just math...

 

I have this same one I bought at a swap meet. Works great for me.

 

Say you want to set your total timing at 36 degrees (forget about idle) . You disconnect (and plug) the vacuum advance, clip the timing light sensor lead on #1 plug wire, and turn the dial to 36 degrees.

Start and run the engine. Pull the throttle linkage (or have someone push the pedal). As the engine speeds up, while shining the light on the mark on the harmonic damper wheel, you will see the timing mark/line start to move. When you see that mark reach 0 degrees at the pointer, the timing is at 36 degrees (or whatever degrees you've dialed the light to). If the mark never reaches the pointer, the timing never reaches 36 degrees, and you need to advance your distributor. If the mark goes past 0 degrees, you need to retard the distributor.

This has other advantages! As you rev the engine, you can note at what point your timing comes in and when it is "all in" as the mark will stop "moving up." You can "map" this data and determine your advance curve.

You can also tell the timing at any specific RPM by holding that RPM, shining the light on the mark, and turning the dial until the mark stabilizes at the pointer.

 

Same one I have and it tells me that my total timing is 70* or just a bit more. I really don't think I have 70* of timing in my engine

 

I have a MSD 6AL and an MSD timing light.
I want them to work together!

 

So you installed this distributor and have never checked timing,when you say the primary to be out of spec what is it should be .45ohms with about a 8to10% increase for hot engine.If its more than that its junk.Do you have points distributor.Turning the distributor and not changing idle i dont get that -check timing first -second call msd back and tell them the specs you have on your coil cold and hot again make sure you dont talk with the same guy-third check the gear on your distr make sure your cam didnt eat it-4th check tdc#1cylinder against the balancer make sure chain didnt jump.Let us no.........

 

I didn't think it even went up that high. Sounds like your balancer has slipped.