79Cruzer

Have just gone through and replaced both headlight assemblies (expensive!) and all mounting hardware plus new vacuum lines, plastic filter,check valve,etc. In other words ..all brand new. Lights go up and down except the passenger side which doesn't completely close flush with the rest of the clip. It's still up about 3/4". If I took the 2 springs off the actuator rod clevis and (it seems to be on a threaded rod) move a few turns inward would this adjust the height where it sits at rest?

...Roger...

Its possible that will do it.There also is a bolt in the locking arm that can also hold it open.

79Cruzer

Thanks Roger. I checked the bolt you are referring to and it doesn't seem to change the height in this instance. By winding the clevis rod in/out would this change the height? I'm just double checking this as I'm a bit concerned about detaching the 2 springs to try this as it's a brand new unit and don't want a set of a parts flying every which way as I unhook this thing.

...Roger...

Thats about the only thing left adjustment wise that would be holding it up.

Artsvette73

Loosen the three bolts that secure the pivot arm and springs to the housing. That bracket holes are slotted fore and aft.

79Cruzer

Thanks Jack. Your suggestion worked. The headlights are now flush with the clip. Yay!! Appreciate the help from you and others who have been there before.

...Roger...

So the entire headlight was up not just the front...sorry I thought you meant it wasnt closing completely.

68/70Vette

I've renewed the headlight assemblies on my 68 and am planning on doing the same to the 70. This time I'm going to try as hard as I can to record the positions of all the various adjustments, so that I can adjust the new headlights assemblies to the same adjustment positions as before.

Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.

I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.

79Cruzer

The front lip (towards the bumper) was up about 3/4" and not closing properly. I undid the springs to make room for the adjustment of the 3 bolts, held my breath and moved the mechanism about 1/4" which was just about right.

79Cruzer

I spent the better part of 2 days on my back with this light assembly. I had to replace the cross bar support that the light assemblies bolt to, along with alot of other hardware for both lights. The upside to all of this is there are no rusted parts from the rad forward to contend with. As to the rest of the car..that's another story and will be slowly restored.

Artsvette73

You have a good plan.And alot more work. But I usually go buy the wittness marks left by the bolt washers.