Headlight Assembly Adjustment - Pass. side up 3/4"
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: South-western Ontario
Headlight Assembly Adjustment - Pass. side up 3/4"
Have just gone through and replaced both headlight assemblies (expensive!) and all mounting hardware plus new vacuum lines, plastic filter,check valve,etc. In other words ..all brand new. Lights go up and down except the passenger side which doesn't completely close flush with the rest of the clip. It's still up about 3/4". If I took the 2 springs off the actuator rod clevis and (it seems to be on a threaded rod) move a few turns inward would this adjust the height where it sits at rest?
Last edited by 79Cruzer; Aug 13, 2008 at 09:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: South-western Ontario
Thanks Roger. I checked the bolt you are referring to and it doesn't seem to change the height in this instance. By winding the clevis rod in/out would this change the height? I'm just double checking this as I'm a bit concerned about detaching the 2 springs to try this as it's a brand new unit and don't want a set of a parts flying every which way as I unhook this thing.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: South-western Ontario
Appreciate the help from you and others who have been there before.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
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From: Redondo Beach, California
I've renewed the headlight assemblies on my 68 and am planning on doing the same to the 70. This time I'm going to try as hard as I can to record the positions of all the various adjustments, so that I can adjust the new headlights assemblies to the same adjustment positions as before.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: South-western Ontario
The front lip (towards the bumper) was up about 3/4" and not closing properly. I undid the springs to make room for the adjustment of the 3 bolts, held my breath and moved the mechanism about 1/4" which was just about right.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: South-western Ontario
I've renewed the headlight assemblies on my 68 and am planning on doing the same to the 70. This time I'm going to try as hard as I can to record the positions of all the various adjustments, so that I can adjust the new headlights assemblies to the same adjustment positions as before.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
I've renewed the headlight assemblies on my 68 and am planning on doing the same to the 70. This time I'm going to try as hard as I can to record the positions of all the various adjustments, so that I can adjust the new headlights assemblies to the same adjustment positions as before.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
Photographing the existing adjustment positions along side a ruler is one possibility. Another is to take some soft epoxy putty and press against threaded portions and adjustment nuts, pulling the putty away and letting it harden to record adjustment position. Also, for the pivots, I'll spray paint them before removing to record there position.
I had a lot of trouble getting the 68 back into adjustment. They final phase of adjusting them means laying on your back reaching up from the bottom and making a lot of trial and error adjustments. Not fun.
You have a good plan.And alot more work. But I usually go buy the wittness marks left by the bolt washers.
