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Just filled the passenger side up with antifreeze, i removed the seat and washed out the carpet along with the padding. My question is do i get to the heater core from the inside or through the engine compartment.
You have to get to it through the interior. You pretty much have to remove the console, center gauge cluster/radio, duct work and glove box. To gain more working room, I always remove the t-tops and the passenger seat. There's one stud that goes through the firewall into the engine compartment with a nut on it, that can be tricky to find and will drive you nuts if you don't know about it. Everything else unbolts from the interior and the whole box assembly mo\ust come out through the interior. Count on spending 8 hours (or more) on this project, seriously!
That is a pretty big job. I just replaced the h/c on my 79. I am not so sure about being able to do without removing the dash.
In my experience the stereo, gauges, speedo and dash all had to come out. As another person had suggested looking at spending the better part of a day on that project.
Look on the bright side, if you do it yourself you will save a ton of cash.
Regards,
Tommy Krak
Now how do I go about fixing the cruise on my dad's 81?
BERIN's 81 will have air, it was standard equipment in 1981. The box comes out through the interior on ac cars and out through the engine compartment on 68-79 non air cars. I didn't specify because I knew his car would have air, sorry.
As for it coming out through the glove box, there is no way, but it will come out from under the dash when the glove box liner has been removed. There is no need to remove or losen the dash.
The problem with the cruise is probably the transducer. It can be found to the left of and below the master cylinder. This is usually the cause of trouble with the cruise control. Rebuilts run about $90.00-100.00 outright, no core. Just make sure you get an 81-82 unit, these have a resume feature that the 78-80's don't.
I would add to AVETTE4me. Vt4me is totally correct R&Ring the core. What did me was replacement cores. They aren't silver soldered therefore brittle. You won't know this until a year or so when defrost = a foggy windshield. Approx 3 or 4 additional screws removes the firewall with the heater fan. Take the pleneum, heater core, fan housing/Wfirewall attached to a radiator shop. Have the Input/Output water lines silver soldered into the core so that the core tank water lines are not being stressed by the firewall and your heater lines have sufficient clearance from the firewall. You don't want to do this job > 1ce
As for it coming out through the glove box, there is no way, but it will come out from under the dash when the glove box liner has been removed. There is no need to remove or losen the dash.
Lot's of different ways to do every job. I'd rather take the dash out than fight under it. Just my opinion.
Thanks everyone, i just got it out, Now the question is i've seen replacements on E-bay for 40.00 and the ones at mid america and other mags for 80.00
is there a real differance? I dont want to do this again soon.
I would add to AVETTE4me. Vt4me is totally correct R&Ring the core. What did me was replacement cores. They aren't silver soldered therefore brittle. You won't know this until a year or so when defrost = a foggy windshield. Approx 3 or 4 additional screws removes the firewall with the heater fan. Take the pleneum, heater core, fan housing/Wfirewall attached to a radiator shop. Have the Input/Output water lines silver soldered into the core so that the core tank water lines are not being stressed by the firewall and your heater lines have sufficient clearance from the firewall. You don't want to do this job > 1ce
Just curious. How are they constructed if not soldered?