problem removing differential carrier unit
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Brownstown Michigan
problem removing differential carrier unit
Hello. My differential finally went on me last Saturday and I am in the process of removing the differential carrier of my 70 roadster. I have removed everything that was holding the carrier except for the crossmember that the cover is bolted on to. There are two bolts that I removed from the crossmember which are bolted to the frame. Well, the crossmember does not want to be separated from the chassis and I don't think anything is holding the damn thing. So my thoughts are: (1) the crossmember is so rusty for being this old. (2) There is something else that is holding the crossmember to the frame that I overlooked. Perhaps, it could be something as simple as hammering the crossmember till it separates from the frame. Does anyone have suggestions out there? Thank you.
P.S. Does anyone know of a reputable shop in Southern Michigan that rebuilds differentials? Thanks
P.S. Does anyone know of a reputable shop in Southern Michigan that rebuilds differentials? Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: Oak Ridge NC
I loosen those 2 bolts about 1/4 inch and then use gear pullers. Leaving the bolts in ensures that the whole unit doesn't come crashing down.
After the crossmember is seperated and diff is securely on a jack, remove the bolts and lower the jack.
After the crossmember is seperated and diff is securely on a jack, remove the bolts and lower the jack.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Naperville Illinois
Make sure you have the bolts out fully. Disconnect half shafts and drive shafts. Place a floor jack under your differential with a piece of 3/4 inch plywood board on the lifting cup about 1 foot square for the differential to rest on and raise the jack and board up to just under the differential so it won't fall when you separate the cross member. Use a long pry bar (takes leverage) to separate the cross bar from the mount by prying between the rubber crossmember bushing and the inverted metal "sombrero" it sits in. This takes some effort and patience and you must be careful not to bend it. Helps to have a partner steady one side while you work the other. When it releases, lower the jack slowly and you're done. I did mine that way and it worked for my '69 convertible. Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
This gives you the most control....once it breaks loose you can remove the bolts the rest of the way and carefully lower it. Also the least chance of doing any damage like you might if using the prybar.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Good advice from the members here. I swore mine was welded together. When the bond between the two pieces finally went, it sounded like a gunshot. Don't be surprised by it and don't be afraid to use a REALLY BIG pry bar.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
Likes: 3,982
From: Connecticut, USA
What happened to the diff, posi case break, noise?
One thing you want to do is keep that diff, do not exchange it. The 70 housings were stamped with 3 letter codes and are hard to get now. 99% of the time the carrier(housing) is still good. The 70 diff has the better posi housings but they can still crack- found one this weekend in fact. also check for a backed out RG bolt and broken spiders,those still used the weaker 10-18's.
I suggest you read my thread on rebuilding these before you go to any local shops, it may save you time and money.Many will not put the detail into them so the more you know the better off you'll be.
Good luck, if you have any questions let me know.
One thing you want to do is keep that diff, do not exchange it. The 70 housings were stamped with 3 letter codes and are hard to get now. 99% of the time the carrier(housing) is still good. The 70 diff has the better posi housings but they can still crack- found one this weekend in fact. also check for a backed out RG bolt and broken spiders,those still used the weaker 10-18's.
I suggest you read my thread on rebuilding these before you go to any local shops, it may save you time and money.Many will not put the detail into them so the more you know the better off you'll be.
Good luck, if you have any questions let me know.
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