R&P install problem/question.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Everett Wa
R&P install problem/question.
I am busy installing a steeroids R&P and have run into a problem.
The set screws and lock nuts on the screws on the bottom of the lower u-joint are not clearing the engine mount.
There are shorter screws included, that would let them clear the mount, but the locking nuts are still sticking out too far.
Has anyone else run into this problem? What was the solution. The only things I have been able to come up with so far are:
-grind away 1/4-3/8ths or so of the engine mount. Basically cut a notch out of the mount to let the screws rotate through/past.
or
-don't push the u-joint very far down on the steering shaft spline. This does not seem like a good idea to me, but i would be able to get it far enough down for the set screws while still clearing the engine mount. The set screws would be above where the engine mount flares out at the bottom.
or
-use short set screws and substitute a thread locker (high strength?) for the locknuts. This would lower the profile on the outside of the u-joint enough to clear the engine mount.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
The set screws and lock nuts on the screws on the bottom of the lower u-joint are not clearing the engine mount.
There are shorter screws included, that would let them clear the mount, but the locking nuts are still sticking out too far.
Has anyone else run into this problem? What was the solution. The only things I have been able to come up with so far are:
-grind away 1/4-3/8ths or so of the engine mount. Basically cut a notch out of the mount to let the screws rotate through/past.
or
-don't push the u-joint very far down on the steering shaft spline. This does not seem like a good idea to me, but i would be able to get it far enough down for the set screws while still clearing the engine mount. The set screws would be above where the engine mount flares out at the bottom.
or
-use short set screws and substitute a thread locker (high strength?) for the locknuts. This would lower the profile on the outside of the u-joint enough to clear the engine mount.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Waverly NY
I installed the sterroids kit in my 78. I did not have this issue. I did have a steering shaft that seemed too short. This caused me to put the u-joint at the wrong angle and not mount it very far on the shafts. Once I figured out that the shaft collapses into the column, and can be pulled back out, the problem was solved. Looking at the article on the steeroids site, it appears that there is plenty of space between the motor mount and the u-joint.
https://www.speeddirect.com/download...261_eprint.pdf
Are you sure there was no prior damage to this frame?
Kipp
https://www.speeddirect.com/download...261_eprint.pdf
Are you sure there was no prior damage to this frame?
Kipp
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 81
From: Santo TX
Go ahead and use the short set screws with thread locker. Be sure to tighten them in the sequence of the set screw on the flat portion of the pinion first and then the one in the indent. Also, do the complete install and get the u-joints adjusted before you put the thread locker on. Having to break the threads loose just to make a small adjustment wouldn't be fun.
You definitely want full engagement of the pinion (although not over engagement). The top of the pinion should be flush with the inside of the lower u-joint.
I wouldn't be concerned about your frame. We have found huge variations in dimensions of the frames for Corvettes. The factory tolerances where pretty loose. One other suggestion is to loosen the bolts for the driver's side rack mounting brackets and pull the rack towards the back of the car. This may give you a little bit more clearance.
Please let us know if you have further questions.
You definitely want full engagement of the pinion (although not over engagement). The top of the pinion should be flush with the inside of the lower u-joint.
I wouldn't be concerned about your frame. We have found huge variations in dimensions of the frames for Corvettes. The factory tolerances where pretty loose. One other suggestion is to loosen the bolts for the driver's side rack mounting brackets and pull the rack towards the back of the car. This may give you a little bit more clearance.
Please let us know if you have further questions.
__________________
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www.SpeedDirect.com
Corvette Forum Members get 10% off with code: CF10
Steeroids rack & pinion conversion kit for '53-'82 Corvettes
Shark Bite Suspension Front & Rear Coil-Overs, Aluminum A-Arms & Diff Covers, Stage Kits
Rod Links Spherical rod end clutch linkage for '65-'82 Corvettes
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
In order to correctly fully seat the lower U-joint clamp onto the racks input pinion stud, I had to grind away the edge of the motor mount frame extension lower lip by up to 1/4 inch in a radius that went around the U-joint. It was the short set-screw that would not clear. I did not go all the way through the lip to the vertical section of the extension though, as I wanted to keep as much integrity of the frame extension as possible and still have no clearance issue.
I wasn't sure if this was a dirty little secret about the install that wasn't really published and was left up to the Vette owner to determine. Anyways I kept the grinding to a minimum and all is well.
This was with a VBP Rack Attack kit and not a Speed Direct Steeroids kit, although in this area, I think they are pretty much identical with the Borgeson U-joint.
B....
I wasn't sure if this was a dirty little secret about the install that wasn't really published and was left up to the Vette owner to determine. Anyways I kept the grinding to a minimum and all is well.
This was with a VBP Rack Attack kit and not a Speed Direct Steeroids kit, although in this area, I think they are pretty much identical with the Borgeson U-joint.
B....
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
In order to correctly fully seat the lower U-joint clamp onto the racks input pinion stud, I had to grind away the edge of the motor mount frame extension lower lip by up to 1/4 inch in a radius that went around the U-joint. It was the short set-screw that would not clear. I did not go all the way through the lip to the vertical section of the extension though, as I wanted to keep as much integrity of the frame extension as possible and still have no clearance issue.
I wasn't sure if this was a dirty little secret about the install that wasn't really published and was left up to the Vette owner to determine. Anyways I kept the grinding to a minimum and all is well.
This was with a VBP Rack Attack kit and not a Speed Direct Steeroids kit, although in this area, I think they are pretty much identical with the Borgeson U-joint.
B....
I wasn't sure if this was a dirty little secret about the install that wasn't really published and was left up to the Vette owner to determine. Anyways I kept the grinding to a minimum and all is well.
This was with a VBP Rack Attack kit and not a Speed Direct Steeroids kit, although in this area, I think they are pretty much identical with the Borgeson U-joint.
B....
Which speaks volumes of the superiority of MY own rack install, not only using just two universal joints, but a much simpler, stronger, and lighter rack mount system....been on there since ~Feb 02.....driven daily with larger lo profile tires, over rougher roads, and high speed highways....
SO FAR, it's fine...tmrw is another day....
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 0
From: Valencia (near LA) CA
I had to grind away at the engine mount as well. I also had to buy shorter set screws, but I bought some that were still long enough to use the lock nut. I use thread lock as well. I don't want this to come loose at 80mph!
~Jay
~Jay
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
but I too use locktite red....
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