odd eletrical problem 1971 car
Found that if I push in on the right side switch plunger the lights would go out.
1st. thought was an adjustment. But it turned out to be a short.
I placed eletricl tape on the door where it contacts the plunger and the light now goes out.
I guess the door is the ground???
I am guessing a new switch will solve this
David
Thanks Mr. Vette. I am very weak on eletrical issues.
Would you agree that a new switch should correct?
If not what is the black tape on the door doing to turn the light off?
Thanks
David
you see, not all GM cars of this vintage had the same clearances from the door frame to the jamb where the switch is located...
so the VETTES as I recall had a wider gap there, not sure why, but so those switches were designed to have a inner sleeve press fitted into the bolt section that screwed into the birdcage/jamb.....so when the door was closed the first time at St. Louis, that pressed in the button to break contact on the lights, AND it also forced that sleeve into proper depth adjustment.....same for ALL GM cars of that vintage....
this was done because of various adjustments to align the doors and body...note that new cars put those switches on the latch side, not the hinge side....
so the vettes had longer switches on that inner sleeve than other cars....hense another vette only part.....
now, as I recall, I took a off the shelf generic cheepy and put in in the jamb, and it of course woked fine electrically, so I put a wood block on the door to take up the extra clearance, and fixed it for 3 bux and no waiting time.....
GOD, I"m cheep and lazy....


The switch has a outer tuber that the plunger passes thru. That outer
tuber has come lose from the nut that screws into the jamb.
This has allowed both the tube and the plunger to be pushed inward away from the door by about 1/16" to 1/8". Just enough to prevent door from hitting plunger to break contact.
I backed the switch out a litte and the light now goes out.
The 2 pieces of tape on the door was actually just filling the gap between the door and the plunger to allow the plunger to be moved.
Thanks to all the advice.
Team work is always better than going it alone.
David
If the light goes out when he pushed the plunger in then the plunger is not making contact with the door and needs to be screwed out a little at a time until the light goes out.
Over time, the plunger wears a depression into the fiberglass and if it gets deep enough the plunger won't break the connection. Especially if it was too far out to begin with. Hopefully he won't find a hole in the door where the plunger meets with it.
cc
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I assuem you went to Carlisle and I hope you had a great time.
Your are correct on the dor. The area that pushes the plunger is metal.
And as said , it was an adjustment issue.
Thanks for your input. The crazy thing is that I had only used 2 layers of tape. This was not done for thickness , but to ensure a good insulation. Since at that time, I still felt it was an eletrical grimlin. I would have never guessed that the thickness of 2 layers of tape would make the difference in pushing the plunger.
Thanks
David
Yes, I was able to spend Thursday, Friday, and Yesterday at Carlisle. I had wonderful time! There is something there for anyone who's interested in Corvettes. There are beautifully restored cars, incredibly well thought out and built Resto-Rods, and all kinds of stock and modified newer cars. I think most people are amazed no matter how long they've been coming. You would love it. You should think about trying to attend some year.
Regards,
Alan
Something you might want to check is the door panel retainer clip... you should have one near the front jamb and the rear jamb and these are little clips that hold the door panel bottom edges onto the door frame. The front retainer clip is what the interior light switch comes in contact with when the door is closed. When I got my int lights working again on my 72 they would turn off when the door was closed and I could, just like you, press the plunger of the switch in and the lights would turn off. Put some tape on the door and lights would go out... hmmm.... search the AIM and there it was... door retainer clips were missing.... Just my 2 cents on the issue and worth checking...
hth,
Sully
Something you might want to check is the door panel retainer clip... you should have one near the front jamb and the rear jamb and these are little clips that hold the door panel bottom edges onto the door frame. The front retainer clip is what the interior light switch comes in contact with when the door is closed. When I got my int lights working again on my 72 they would turn off when the door was closed and I could, just like you, press the plunger of the switch in and the lights would turn off. Put some tape on the door and lights would go out... hmmm.... search the AIM and there it was... door retainer clips were missing.... Just my 2 cents on the issue and worth checking...
hth,
Sully
Thanks SULLY
This is good input. I will look at that.
David




















