When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm in the process of giving up!!!!!!!
Over the last few months I have had an ongoing problem with a rough running engine and dead miss at idle.
The problem began suddenly after running well for years.
I have checked wires, replaced plugs, replaced lifters(2 were not pumping up) disassembled carb and cleaned (only 2 years old),replaced distributor cap & rotor.
On adjusting valves I noticed #8 exhaust valve spring seemed to be loose.
Would a weak valve spring cause a miss at idle. Engine does run better after 2000 rpms.
I checked with vacuum gauge and the needle fluctuated at idle but steadied at higher rpms.
I think that indicates bad valve guides.
And ideas are welcome.
Thanks in advance`
How did the electrode on the plug [in #8] look? Was it different from any of the other plugs? Do the pushrods on #8 look like they are providing the same valve "lift" as the others? Is the miss only at idle, or is it just masked by the higher revs of the motor? Put a timing light on that plug wire (and on one or two of the others) to see what the 'spark' is doing on each of those cylinders.
Spark is same as other for #8.
My problem is the exhaust valve spring seams "softer", there is not the same resistance as other valves to my pushing down on them with my finger.. #8 valve can be moved downward.....the spring doesn't hold it closed.......could this be causing rough idle....
I'm doing compression chech and leakdown check tomorrow.
Spark is same as other for #8.
My problem is the exhaust valve spring seams "softer", there is not the same resistance as other valves to my pushing down on them with my finger.. #8 valve can be moved downward.....the spring doesn't hold it closed.......could this be causing rough idle....
I'm doing compression chech and leakdown check tomorrow.
I think you have found a bad spring, but be careful when you check the compression. Some times when checking compression with a bad spring, it will close enough to seal and give a misleading reading.
You should be able to go to your local machine shop, or performance warehouse and pick up a "better than stock" Z28 type spring set for about 20-30 bucks. If I was you I'd change the whole set asap.
There are several vacuum hoses that connect to the intake runner that feeds the #8 cylinder.
If one of these has a leak in the system, the cylinder will run lean and result in a dead miss at idle.
If you noticed anything that runs off of vacuum start to malfunction around the same time as the miss started, it could be a sign.
Have you tried capping the vacuum ports?
If you've had a valve spring failure on #8, it's just a matter of time that the others begin to fail, as well. Stock valve springs are not an expensive item and changing them out is a PITA (if the heads are on the car). Just change them all and replace the valve seals while you're at it. It's a "do good" move that you won't regret.
Guys
I think we've got it.......Removed exhaust valve spring(the one I replaced before) and found the replacement spring had broken.
That is what happens when you overlook the obvious.
Had same symptoms again and assumed it must be something else....
I'm in the process of replacing all other valve springs and I hope I can get it back together without any more problems.
Thanks again for everyones help....