tuned her today and now she is running like crap
09-01-2008, 01:13 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
We can't attribute the situation to a worn out distributor - there were issues before the "tune" to sort out, but they were worse after the "tune"...so my suggestion is to get to a known state before swapping out parts.
09-01-2008, 09:50 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
If you can get hold of a HEI you can change the points one out and use the HEI as a diagnostic tool. Even new ones aren't that expensive and it can help you rule out that the POS points dizzy is the problem, or...you could just lose your mind.
09-01-2008, 10:50 AM
#24
Le Mans Master
I think a solid mechanic will sort through the issues and get you a car you can enjoy (and whomp on
...and be cheaper in the long run that parts swapping to chase a problem. 
09-01-2008, 12:47 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
you do NOT need to swap in an electronic conversion kit - it's a waste of time and money and isn't the solution to your problem.
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
09-01-2008, 01:56 PM
#26
Race Director
you do NOT need to swap in an electronic conversion kit - it's a waste of time and money and isn't the solution to your problem.
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
09-01-2008, 02:11 PM
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: ********** New York
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you do NOT need to swap in an electronic conversion kit - it's a waste of time and money and isn't the solution to your problem.
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
In my opinion taking the car to a mechanic is a waste of time and money also, the VAST MAJORITY have no clue about older points distributors, vacuum advance systems, and carbs. Almost all of the older mechanics who are used to working on older cars like ours are dead or retired and the current ones only know about plugging in a diagnostic machine which they can't do to yours.
If you don't already have them you are better off going to Sears and purchasing a dial-back timing light (approx $69.99), vacuum gauge (approx $29.99), and a dwell meter (approx $29.99), learning how to use them and tuning the car yourself. More chances than not you will do a much better job than the mechanic will and cost you less money. Believe me, I know this from experience!
PS one thing I left out my plugs are fouling worst than when my bike is running rich were its just black loose carbon on them it's cooked on.
Last edited by BB427; 09-01-2008 at 02:13 PM.
09-01-2008, 04:53 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
any basic vacuum gauge will wotk, don't have to be real expensive or fancy. I got mine at the local NAPA a few years ago and it was only $19.99 or $29.99.
yes, you can borrow a timing light and dwell meter but why do it? They aren't expensive and they are tools you should have with an older car and they can last you a lifetime. The cost of all the tools is less than one visit to a mechanic.
Once you get the tools, if you don't know how to use them post up and we all will be glad to help you out. This is exactly the reason the method that I learned how!
BTW, when you buy the vacuum gauge, it's a good idea to get an extra length of the same size vacuum hose that the gauge comes with and a plastic "T" fitting. This comes in handy if you need to "T" into an existing line to take a reading rather than disconnecting something. It may cost you an extra $1.50 or so.
yes, you can borrow a timing light and dwell meter but why do it? They aren't expensive and they are tools you should have with an older car and they can last you a lifetime. The cost of all the tools is less than one visit to a mechanic.
Once you get the tools, if you don't know how to use them post up and we all will be glad to help you out. This is exactly the reason the method that I learned how!
BTW, when you buy the vacuum gauge, it's a good idea to get an extra length of the same size vacuum hose that the gauge comes with and a plastic "T" fitting. This comes in handy if you need to "T" into an existing line to take a reading rather than disconnecting something. It may cost you an extra $1.50 or so.
09-01-2008, 06:21 PM
#29
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the center carb should have a power valve like most holleys do. If the car coughed back through the carbs it usally messes up the power valve and makes it run rich on idle(unless it has the kit that pevents this installed all ready).
The power valve works on engine vacume, and needs to be half of that reading at idle. for example if it carries 10 lbs of vacume, you would use a 5.0 power valve.
I would suspect that you have more than one problem causing the problem.
If the valves are to tight/and or the timing is to retarderd it will defantly suffer in performace also.If it has a real 435 hp cam it should be a solid cam and the valves need to be set with a feeler gauge to the proper spec's with the engine warmed up.
Tom
The vacume advance should be hooked to constant vacume for best performance, and points should be set 28-32 on the dwell if I remember correctly.
The power valve works on engine vacume, and needs to be half of that reading at idle. for example if it carries 10 lbs of vacume, you would use a 5.0 power valve.
I would suspect that you have more than one problem causing the problem.
If the valves are to tight/and or the timing is to retarderd it will defantly suffer in performace also.If it has a real 435 hp cam it should be a solid cam and the valves need to be set with a feeler gauge to the proper spec's with the engine warmed up.
Tom
The vacume advance should be hooked to constant vacume for best performance, and points should be set 28-32 on the dwell if I remember correctly.
09-01-2008, 07:38 PM
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: ********** New York
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arbvacside.jpg
Last edited by BB427; 09-01-2008 at 07:45 PM.
09-01-2008, 07:40 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
The assumption is that someone that has no experience here will be able to do the troubleshooting. There are many mechanics out there familiar with the "old skool' stuff - it's just important to ask up front.
Agreed that it's easy for someone that has some background, but IMHO not so much for someone starting from scratch and without someone right there to help.
How about someone nearby from the board steps up?
Agreed that it's easy for someone that has some background, but IMHO not so much for someone starting from scratch and without someone right there to help.
How about someone nearby from the board steps up?
09-01-2008, 08:34 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
This it does not have. If I pull the vacume from the base of the middle carb there is no vacume at idle
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arbvacside.jpg
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arbvacside.jpg
not sure on yours but on '67 tri-powers the choke hose is full manifold vacuum and you can "t" into that. If your tri-power choke is set up differently just find another manifold vacuum source to tap into.
09-01-2008, 08:40 PM
#33
Le Mans Master
The assumption is that someone that has no experience here will be able to do the troubleshooting. There are many mechanics out there familiar with the "old skool' stuff - it's just important to ask up front.
Agreed that it's easy for someone that has some background, but IMHO not so much for someone starting from scratch and without someone right there to help.
How about someone nearby from the board steps up?
Agreed that it's easy for someone that has some background, but IMHO not so much for someone starting from scratch and without someone right there to help.
How about someone nearby from the board steps up?
I had ZERO experience working on cars, never owned a timing light, never set timing, or anything else for that matter on a car - never even changed the oil except on my old motorcycles.
I bought the timing light, vacuum gauge, and dwell meter and learned it on my own with the help of the articles I referenced to the poster in an earlier post in this thread and help with members of the forum.
I'm was a complete idiot when it came to knowing what I was doing so if an idiot like me can learn to do it anyone can!
Honestly, setting timing, adjusting carbs, checking vacuum and making sure the vacuum advance system is operating correctly is NOT rocket science (contrary to most mechanics ability of working on these cars).
he may not be able to do it as quickly as someone with experience, but by asking questions, reporting back what he finds, and asking for help he can do it and it's how you learn.
No better way to learn than to just dig in and do it.
09-01-2008, 09:51 PM
#34
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Once you understand how something works... it makes it much easier
to fix.
But this
PS . The lifter adjustment went bad he said it's not lifters clatering but sounds more like a wrist pin or cam bearing. He said the sound has been there for sometime just drive it easy till winter we have 2 pull the motor and do a overhaul Y cant anything be easy for me I'll start A new thread about the rebuild for help with the parts list
At the original settings the car bogged alittle on slow take off was definately to much fuel as it was running so rich if started in the garage your eyes would burn. But once I passed 1500 rmp it woke up then around 5000 rmp it fell apart - almost like my bike does when the rev limited kicks in.
Tom
09-01-2008, 09:53 PM
#35
Le Mans Master
Barry, we'll agree to disagree as we have different experiences.
Completely agree it ain't rocket science and anyone can learn to do it - but it's pretty tough IMHO without someone to guide through it real-time. I spend a lot of Saturdays doing this for folks
Completely agree it ain't rocket science and anyone can learn to do it - but it's pretty tough IMHO without someone to guide through it real-time. I spend a lot of Saturdays doing this for folks
09-02-2008, 11:49 AM
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: ********** New York
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
09-02-2008, 12:14 PM
#37
Le Mans Master
Hey, it's not about you at all - please don't take it that way. I've just found that there are a lot of 'ah-HAH!' moments tuning where someone can show you something and it clicks...but you can read/talk about it forever and it just doesn't make sense until you see it.
In any case, I'm sure you'll get it nailed
In any case, I'm sure you'll get it nailed
