engine mounting to stand
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 895
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From: whitman massachusetts
engine mounting to stand
This question may seem stupid to some, but it is my first experience with an engine stand. Is there a preferred method to attach a SBC to one of these four armed stands? Should certain bell housing holes be used to distribute load evenly? Most important, is there anything NOT to do when mounting to prevent damage to block? Thanks for any advice!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Macon, GA
There's not really a wrong way to do it. The block is made of iron and will be strong enough in any bolt location, but I would recommend spreading the arms as far as possible. Best advice I can give is to remove the arm assembly from the stand and then bolt it to the block. It's much easier to pick up a 25lb engine stand than it is trying to align the block to the stand with a hoist. 
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
What NOT to do.
Don’t use old bolts with an air tool. “SNAP”
I just bought my first motor a few months ago & was getting it off the truck & putting it on a stand.
I spent the next 12 hours with bolt extractors, drills & a Drimel & never got the (expletive deleted) out.
Spend 5 bucks on 4 new bolts that are the correct length & thread & never use an air tool to put ANYTHING together.
(I’m still kickin my self for that one)
Don’t use old bolts with an air tool. “SNAP”
I just bought my first motor a few months ago & was getting it off the truck & putting it on a stand.
I spent the next 12 hours with bolt extractors, drills & a Drimel & never got the (expletive deleted) out.
Spend 5 bucks on 4 new bolts that are the correct length & thread & never use an air tool to put ANYTHING together.
(I’m still kickin my self for that one)
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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*Center* the motor on the pivot tube right at the cam area. That will balance it a lot better and make it easier to roll over.
Use bottom 2 bolt holes and the 2 angled ones at the top of block. Skip the two middle ones right above the dowels.
JIM
Use bottom 2 bolt holes and the 2 angled ones at the top of block. Skip the two middle ones right above the dowels.
JIM
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
There's not really a wrong way to do it. The block is made of iron and will be strong enough in any bolt location, but I would recommend spreading the arms as far as possible. Best advice I can give is to remove the arm assembly from the stand and then bolt it to the block. It's much easier to pick up a 25lb engine stand than it is trying to align the block to the stand with a hoist.
Senior Member
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From: Easton, PA
St. Jude Donor '10
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
You're very welcome, I took that just for this thread.
That engine came into the garage last minute and I didn't have any bolts short enough so I did a quick shim until I could get out and get more hardware.
To be honest the grade 5 have never been a problem no matter what engine I have been working on. I usually have grade 8 on hand but when I run out I use grade 5 and even with my Dodge big block projects I have NEVER had a bolt fail on me.
That engine sat outside for a while I think. It was covered under an awning but it got plenty of surface rust. I haven't torn into it yet but it does turn by hand. I don't have an after yet...and won't until it gets torn down and taken to the machine shop for some testing and work. If it passes I'll clean it up and rebuild it for a customer. It's one of a couple Vortec 350s I have and am working on.
Senior Member
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From: Easton, PA
St. Jude Donor '10
Love it.I have heard many a great line here on the forum and I still love the line "drive it like you stole it..." Classic. Thanks for the laughs.
David
77Sleeper
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A little note on bolt strength. A 3/8" grade 5 bolt has an ultimate strength in the range of 8000 lbs so you are looking at a total strength of about 32,000 lbs for the 4 bolts on the stand. Grade 8's would put you about 12% stronger so around 9000 lbs and 36,000 lbs total. Either way you have a significant margin of safety.