Headlite Switch-1976
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 54
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Headlite Switch-1976
Dog gone it! My running lites and tail lites quit working. Brake and flashers work. Headlites work but the instrument panel lites are out. The interior lites come on when opening the door but not by turning the headlite switch. The fuses are all ok the clock and warning lites work as well as the buzzers. Anyway the manual says you have to drop the steering wheel and remove the left dash panel to access it. Has anyone else changed this out and are there any short cuts? It sounds like I might be better off biting the bullet and paying the dealership to do it? Thanks guys
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
I just replaced the headlight switch in my '73 yesterday. Found a couple of threads on the forum that helped me.
I didn't drop the steering column. I had the center bezel out anyway as I had been repairing my ammeter. I removed the 3 top screws and the 2 side screws holding the dash in place and was able to pull it out far enough to see the switch. I loosened the bolts holding the steering column up and was able to gain an additional 1/4".
I disconnected the vacuum hoses and very carefully pried the wiring harness loose from the switch. I pulled the **** all the way out and was able to get my hands on the release button and completed removal of the **** and shaft. I was then able to use a large screwdriver to unscrew the retaining nut from the front of the dash.
The switch can then be removed. I did find some instructions that said a switch hold down strap had to be removed from the backside of the dash but I didn't have to remove it as the switch was simply inserted through it from the back side.
Hope this helps.
DC
I didn't drop the steering column. I had the center bezel out anyway as I had been repairing my ammeter. I removed the 3 top screws and the 2 side screws holding the dash in place and was able to pull it out far enough to see the switch. I loosened the bolts holding the steering column up and was able to gain an additional 1/4".
I disconnected the vacuum hoses and very carefully pried the wiring harness loose from the switch. I pulled the **** all the way out and was able to get my hands on the release button and completed removal of the **** and shaft. I was then able to use a large screwdriver to unscrew the retaining nut from the front of the dash.
The switch can then be removed. I did find some instructions that said a switch hold down strap had to be removed from the backside of the dash but I didn't have to remove it as the switch was simply inserted through it from the back side.
Hope this helps.
DC
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I just replaced the headlight switch in my '73 yesterday. Found a couple of threads on the forum that helped me.
I didn't drop the steering column. I had the center bezel out anyway as I had been repairing my ammeter. I removed the 3 top screws and the 2 side screws holding the dash in place and was able to pull it out far enough to see the switch. I loosened the bolts holding the steering column up and was able to gain an additional 1/4".
I disconnected the vacuum hoses and very carefully pried the wiring harness loose from the switch. I pulled the **** all the way out and was able to get my hands on the release button and completed removal of the **** and shaft. I was then able to use a large screwdriver to unscrew the retaining nut from the front of the dash.
The switch can then be removed. I did find some instructions that said a switch hold down strap had to be removed from the backside of the dash but I didn't have to remove it as the switch was simply inserted through it from the back side.
Hope this helps.
DC
I didn't drop the steering column. I had the center bezel out anyway as I had been repairing my ammeter. I removed the 3 top screws and the 2 side screws holding the dash in place and was able to pull it out far enough to see the switch. I loosened the bolts holding the steering column up and was able to gain an additional 1/4".
I disconnected the vacuum hoses and very carefully pried the wiring harness loose from the switch. I pulled the **** all the way out and was able to get my hands on the release button and completed removal of the **** and shaft. I was then able to use a large screwdriver to unscrew the retaining nut from the front of the dash.
The switch can then be removed. I did find some instructions that said a switch hold down strap had to be removed from the backside of the dash but I didn't have to remove it as the switch was simply inserted through it from the back side.
Hope this helps.
DC
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: York PA
Sounds like a lot of work but I had mine done in about 1/2 hour. There was a ground ring on my 77 and there may be one on your 76. I dropped my stearing column and it wasn't too bad. I think it was: lower column cover 1 screw, 2 bolts for the column under the dash, drop the trip odometer thumbscrew 2 screws and I think that was it. It gave me enough to get my fingers in there to push the release button. Oh yes, remember to make sure your vacuum connections are snug. I didnt, I had a vacuum leak and had to take it apart again to get my head lights down and working right. I think ZIP has a article on their website on how to do it.
chuck
chuck
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Make sure you remove the positive cable from your battery [or turn off you disconnect] before you start this repair. There's lots of opportunity to create a dead short in and around the left dash panel.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
If you loosen the bolts holding up the steering column to gain a little bit of extra room like I did, don't take them all the way out unless you follow the proper procedures for dropping the steering column. If you just take these bolts out and nothing more, it can put enough pressure on a lower bearing in the steering column to cause it to eventually fail.
DC
