Can this block be repaired?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Holmes Pa
Can this block be repaired?
I am a newbie and am restoring/rebuilding a 69 Corvette to show and drive. The engine block is cracked. I found a machine shop in New England that says they can metal stitch the block. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this kind of repair or is there a better way? It is the original 427 390HP block and I would like to save it if possible, But I want to drive this car when finished and I don't want spend the $$ rebuilding the engine if this repair is going to come back to haunt me in the future.The machine shop is J&M Machine www.jandm-machine.com Does anyone have any experience with them or could you recommend anyone else? I am in the Philadelphia area. The block has two cracks. One is easy to see the other a little more difficult. I marked the block with tape in the one picture so you could see where the crack is. Any input would be appreciated especially from those in the know.
Thanks , Tony
Thanks , Tony
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
I am a newbie and am restoring/rebuilding a 69 Corvette to show and drive. The engine block is cracked. I found a machine shop in New England that says they can metal stitch the block. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this kind of repair or is there a better way? It is the original 427 390HP block and I would like to save it if possible, But I want to drive this car when finished and I don't want spend the $$ rebuilding the engine if this repair is going to come back to haunt me in the future.The machine shop is J&M Machine www.jandm-machine.com Does anyone have any experience with them or could you recommend anyone else? I am in the Philadelphia area. The block has two cracks. One is easy to see the other a little more difficult. I marked the block with tape in the one picture so you could see where the crack is. Any input would be appreciated especially from those in the know.
Thanks , Tony
Thanks , Tony
Yes those are very repairable if a shop is any good at all. I have repaired much worse cracks than that, but the problem you really have is they appear to be fron a freeze. Meaning maybe other places on this block can be out of shap also and that you will most likely need to deck that block and you may loose the numbers that make this block worth anything. It can be decked and save the numbers, so if the shop says they can not then move on. Good luck with this.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
I had a crack in my 71' small block and it was repaired as you said using "stiching". Looked very nice when they were done and it doesn't leak. If it's your "matching numbers" block I'd say it is worth fixing. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Lots of stess put in the block if it froze up. You need to have the block Magnafluxed to be sure you've found all the damage. If you try to weld it, it will need some remachining of surfaces/bores. You say it's "numbers matching"? (meaning it originally came from the car you are building). Make sure the machinist [not just the shop owner] understands that they will not get paid if the number pad is machined off!! And put that in the contract/work order when you make the agreement.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Ventura California
Lots of stess put in the block if it froze up. You need to have the block Magnafluxed to be sure you've found all the damage. If you try to weld it, it will need some remachining of surfaces/bores. You say it's "numbers matching"? (meaning it originally came from the car you are building). Make sure the machinist [not just the shop owner] understands that they will not get paid if the number pad is machined off!! And put that in the contract/work order when you make the agreement.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Holmes Pa
block is #'s matching. good point with the decking and the #'s. I really want to save the block because of the value, but I'm still kinda on the fence. Any machinist guys out there in my general area "north east", Philadelphia to be exact, that could handle this job properly? I really appreciate the responses so far and look forward to any more input. Tony
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
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Man that block looks stressed, I would have concerns using.
but what ever your machinist is thinks may be best.
Have you professioanlly checked out the block? ..69VETT
but what ever your machinist is thinks may be best.
Have you professioanlly checked out the block? ..69VETT
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
the original block from my '65 had a crack down by the freeze plug on the passenger side. it was stitch repaired and you would never know it by looking at the block unless I told you it was done.
It's done by drilling a hole at both ends of the crack, than more holes drilled the entire length of the crack as closely together as possible and special screws put in every hole. The screws are than cut off as close to the block as possible and ground down till they are flush to the block surface and than the entire length was welded. The weld was than ground smooth. At this point the repair was practically invisible and i'm told the repair is stronger than the rest of the block.
As an added precaution, JB Weld was than applied over the entire repair area and smoothed out.
The block was than primed and repainted and you would never know the repair existed.
As for strength, i've had the motor up past 7500rpm and it's holding together great. It's been over 4 years now since the repair was done so i'm confident of the quality of the work and the strength of the repair.
I have pictures taken by the shop of the repair from beginning to end of you need to see them
It's done by drilling a hole at both ends of the crack, than more holes drilled the entire length of the crack as closely together as possible and special screws put in every hole. The screws are than cut off as close to the block as possible and ground down till they are flush to the block surface and than the entire length was welded. The weld was than ground smooth. At this point the repair was practically invisible and i'm told the repair is stronger than the rest of the block.
As an added precaution, JB Weld was than applied over the entire repair area and smoothed out.
The block was than primed and repainted and you would never know the repair existed.
As for strength, i've had the motor up past 7500rpm and it's holding together great. It's been over 4 years now since the repair was done so i'm confident of the quality of the work and the strength of the repair.
I have pictures taken by the shop of the repair from beginning to end of you need to see them
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Holmes Pa
I had the engine to one machine shop who disassembled it, hot tanked it ,I'm not sure if it was magnafluxed or not, but he first told me the block was junk then told me someone could probably fix it but it would cost a fortune and he did not do that work. I promptly picked up the disassembled engine. funny thing is I drove the car for years, hadn't parked it outside in over 10 years and never ever had a leak. I first thought the shop switched the block or was pulling my leg, not the case however. Barry K, You live relatively close can you name the shop that fixed your block?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
Sharkskin
the shop was in Gaithersburg, MD - Tony's Corvette Shop.
It's going to be a bit of a drive for you to take the motor to them though.
A friend just had a motor built for his cart and they did a great job on it so you may want to check them out - it's a shop in Kennett Square, Pa called Blitz
the shop was in Gaithersburg, MD - Tony's Corvette Shop.
It's going to be a bit of a drive for you to take the motor to them though.
A friend just had a motor built for his cart and they did a great job on it so you may want to check them out - it's a shop in Kennett Square, Pa called Blitz
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Check out the work this guy does as I consider him an artist as we have received blocks from other shops that he has repaired worse then the one in the pic.
Here is a link with pics or his work.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ighlight=casey
Here is a link with pics or his work.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ighlight=casey
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Holmes Pa
Blockman, I appreciate the link, and I assume you are talking about Frank Casey that Keith Morganstein from Max Effort Engines is talking about. If so I cannot find the link to the pictures you spoke of. Keith speaks of his website that has some pictures, but I cannot find that either. If you know of any links to the pics or Keith's website please let me know. If not I will call Keith @ Max Effort to get the info Thanks!
*Footnote* I went back and checked the link again and saw the two pictures that Keith posted. That is excellent work, I will give Keith a call Thanks!
*Footnote* I went back and checked the link again and saw the two pictures that Keith posted. That is excellent work, I will give Keith a call Thanks!
Last edited by sharkskin69; Sep 4, 2008 at 11:34 AM. Reason: fix mistake
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 111
From: St Louis MO
the original block from my '65 had a crack down by the freeze plug on the passenger side. it was stitch repaired and you would never know it by looking at the block unless I told you it was done.
It's done by drilling a hole at both ends of the crack, than more holes drilled the entire length of the crack as closely together as possible and special screws put in every hole. The screws are than cut off as close to the block as possible and ground down till they are flush to the block surface and than the entire length was welded. The weld was than ground smooth. At this point the repair was practically invisible and i'm told the repair is stronger than the rest of the block.
As an added precaution, JB Weld was than applied over the entire repair area and smoothed out.
The block was than primed and repainted and you would never know the repair existed.
As for strength, i've had the motor up past 7500rpm and it's holding together great. It's been over 4 years now since the repair was done so i'm confident of the quality of the work and the strength of the repair.
I have pictures taken by the shop of the repair from beginning to end of you need to see them
It's done by drilling a hole at both ends of the crack, than more holes drilled the entire length of the crack as closely together as possible and special screws put in every hole. The screws are than cut off as close to the block as possible and ground down till they are flush to the block surface and than the entire length was welded. The weld was than ground smooth. At this point the repair was practically invisible and i'm told the repair is stronger than the rest of the block.
As an added precaution, JB Weld was than applied over the entire repair area and smoothed out.
The block was than primed and repainted and you would never know the repair existed.
As for strength, i've had the motor up past 7500rpm and it's holding together great. It's been over 4 years now since the repair was done so i'm confident of the quality of the work and the strength of the repair.
I have pictures taken by the shop of the repair from beginning to end of you need to see them
Thanx!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
Larry
here you go. I just uploaded them to the server for you so they aren't in a nice photo album page, just the pics themselves so you will need to click on each one to open them.
Sorry about the quality of the photography - the shop took the pics at the time, i didn't.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/misc/...20pics%205-04/
Barry
here you go. I just uploaded them to the server for you so they aren't in a nice photo album page, just the pics themselves so you will need to click on each one to open them.
Sorry about the quality of the photography - the shop took the pics at the time, i didn't.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/misc/...20pics%205-04/
Barry
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Holmes Pa
Barry K
Thanks for the pictures. I didn't want to ask. I'm glad someone else did. I appreciate the effort. If it is feasible and I get mine fixed I will post the info and the pics as well Thanks!
Tony
Thanks for the pictures. I didn't want to ask. I'm glad someone else did. I appreciate the effort. If it is feasible and I get mine fixed I will post the info and the pics as well Thanks!
Tony
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
Stitching is the only feasible and good repair.
Dont try to weld it.
It seems to be only the water outer jacket cracked.
All material is still there and the way I understand the stitching process, this should be very easy to repair and leaves a stressless repair, contradictory to a weld repair.
I nearly got a block repaired by this method, that had similar area cracked and a big piece missing and they still promised a repair.
With your block, I would not hesitate to repair it by stitching.
Good luck. Gunther
Stitching is the only feasible and good repair.
Dont try to weld it.
It seems to be only the water outer jacket cracked.
All material is still there and the way I understand the stitching process, this should be very easy to repair and leaves a stressless repair, contradictory to a weld repair.
I nearly got a block repaired by this method, that had similar area cracked and a big piece missing and they still promised a repair.
With your block, I would not hesitate to repair it by stitching.
Good luck. Gunther
