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Valve job?

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:13 PM
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Default Valve job?

Hey all
I need to replace valve seals on my '74. The 1st shop is saying I should get a complete valve job, and calling me back with $$.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?

Last edited by jbaron; Sep 3, 2008 at 03:15 PM. Reason: missed a word
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:22 PM
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If it is running fine with the exception of the puff of smoke at start up. Just do the seals. The "first shop: is blowing smoke at you.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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What are the reasons he got for a complete valve job? did he notice anything wrong with the engine?

If you only want to replace the valve stem seals, then you can do it yourself if you have the right tools and some time, plus some readings from this forum.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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Just told him I needed seals..he said I probably need a whole job. Seems to run fine!
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 04:08 PM
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I've done alot but, don't know about doing that.... don't want to screw it up!
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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Has the engine ever been rebuilt? If not, while you have the heads off, why not grind the valves.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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if they are original 74 heads i would think they would need a valve job
the guides could be worn out and the valve stems also
changing the seals can just bandaid. bronze wall guides are the way to go. with stainless valves. it is useually pricey to do a set of earlly model heads right. sometimes a new set is cheaper.
ps if they are 882 or 624 get another set they are known for cracking and bad about detination.

donnie
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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The heads are off. Get the job done properly. And relax for 75,000 miles.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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If the heads are still on the car and you have an air compressor and the tools, you can change the seals "in the car". Just read up on the procedure which uses compressed air to hold the valves in place while you release the springs, change the seals and re-assemble the springs/keepers. The compressed air can cause your engine to turn which might open a valve [releasing the air pressure in the cylinder and dropping a valve into it!], so make sure you know how to prevent that. You are only out some time, cost of seals (add the 'umbrella' seals to the regular Chevy seals for a long-term fix), and 2 valve cover gaskets. Go for it.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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The heads are still in the car. Is this fairly easy and just time consuming? If I opt for full job, what kind of $$ ?
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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Is it using oil, smoking on startup, but otherwise running fine?? If so, it probably is the valve seals. You can replace them yourself. If you don't feel comfortable using compressed air, you can use a piece of rope to prevent the valves from dropping down. Do a search on here. There's detailed instructions with pictures. It's pretty easy to do. I did it to my '77. Mine went from using a quart of oil every 250 miles to a quart every 1200 on the original motor. Good luck.
KC
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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If none of the 'hardware' on the heads is damaged, you can clean-up and re-use rocker arms, pushrods and even valves to save some money. The heads need to have the valve seats re-set and I would recommend that you put a new set of 'stock' valve springs on it...along with the new 'umbrella' seals. The cost depends on the shop you have do the work. If you have a good [small] shop, the above work will cost you between $150-200. If you go the full route with new valves, rocker arms, new guide bushings, etc., it could go up to around $500.

If money is an issue, I'd advise you to do the seal change work yourself and 'ride it out' until you really need a complete valve job. At that time, you might decide to put on some new aluminum heads or buy some used Vortec heads to improve your engine's performance, while you're at it.
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