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I have power at the fuse block but no power at the switch on the transmission. I pulled the plug apart at the firewall and with the car on and in reverse no power on either the pink nor the green plug. I went underneath the dash and I have power on the fuse block at the backup lights terminal..... then isn't this where the pink come off and goes up through the wire harness to the firewall? All other lights inside and outside work. Blinkers and brights and brake lights all work... this is all that I have left to fix on the electrical side. Any ideas??? from what i understand the pink from the fuse box provides the constant power and then the switch on the trans, when activated, connects the pink and green sending power to the back up lamps... am I right? I really dont want to pull the dash apart again but I am fearing i will have to...
1972 coupe, 4spd, small block, with A/C
thanks in advance...
Sully
Last edited by Sully1882; Sep 8, 2008 at 12:46 PM.
Reason: added better detail
I have power at the fuse block but no power at the switch on the transmission. I pulled the plug apart at the firewall and with the car on and in reverse no power on either the pink nor the green plug. I went underneath the dash and I have power on the fuse block at the backup lights terminal..... then isn't this where the pink come off and goes up through the wire harness to the firewall? All other lights inside and outside work. Blinkers and brights and brake lights all work... this is all that I have left to fix on the electrical side. Any ideas??? from what i understand the pink from the fuse box provides the constant power and then the switch on the trans, when activated, connects the pink and green sending power to the back up lamps... am I right? I really dont want to pull the dash apart again but I am fearing i will have to...
thanks in advance...
Sully
Yes your right. You need to find out why the pink is not hot when the key is on.
One thing I know is the plug for the switch is at the shifter inside on and auto. That same wire is run through the fire wall on four speeds. Do you have the correct wire?
Sully I'm going 6 diff. directions now and dont have a diag. to look at but go over to your turn signal flasher and see if you have a double wire on 1 terminal.I think thats where your pink for the rev. switch originates or Ts in.Make sure you dont have an issue there.
Sully I'm going 6 diff. directions now and dont have a diag. to look at but go over to your turn signal flasher and see if you have a double wire on 1 terminal.I think thats where your pink for the rev. switch originates or Ts in.Make sure you dont have an issue there.
Yeah I am sure I have the correct wire and terminal on the engine side of the firewall.... DW, the turn signal flasher... isn't it just behind the lower dash pad on the passenger side? I think I remember seeing that the pink wire does have something to do with the turn signals... i think they share the same power source...
I have power at the fuse block but no power at the switch on the transmission. I pulled the plug apart at the firewall and with the car on and in reverse no power on either the pink nor the green plug. I went underneath the dash and I have power on the fuse block at the backup lights terminal..... then isn't this where the pink come off and goes up through the wire harness to the firewall? All other lights inside and outside work. Blinkers and brights and brake lights all work... this is all that I have left to fix on the electrical side. Any ideas??? from what i understand the pink from the fuse box provides the constant power and then the switch on the trans, when activated, connects the pink and green sending power to the back up lamps... am I right? I really dont want to pull the dash apart again but I am fearing i will have to...
thanks in advance...
Sully
Sully,
My 74 diagram shows a hot wire from fuse block to flasher. Off that termial a Pink wire to
backup sw. A lt gr wire back to backup lights but it goes to a termial block first.
I can e-mail you it if you want. PM glassman74
Sully,
My 74 diagram shows a hot wire from fuse block to flasher. Off that termial a Pink wire to
backup sw. A lt gr wire back to backup lights but it goes to a termial block first.
I can e-mail you it if you want. PM glassman74
Yeah, I will take you up on that email, sully1882@aol.com. So is the flasher behind the passenger side lower dash panel? I keep thinking that is where it is....
Yeah, I will take you up on that email, sully1882@aol.com. So is the flasher behind the passenger side lower dash panel? I keep thinking that is where it is....
thanks,
Sully
Yep, that's where it is Sully. You should be able to reach up behind there and feel/remove it.
Silly question but did you check your ground for the backup lights?
Yep, that's where it is Sully. You should be able to reach up behind there and feel/remove it.
Silly question but did you check your ground for the backup lights?
cc
no i never even made it that far back .... i just figured since there was no power at either the pink nor the green at the firewall that had to be fixed first... SHouldn't the pink always be hot with the car on and the green and pink become hot when the car is in reverse. I tested it both ways, car is still up on jacks, and got no power on pink or green either way...
no i never even made it that far back .... i just figured since there was no power at either the pink nor the green at the firewall that had to be fixed first... SHouldn't the pink always be hot with the car on and the green and pink become hot when the car is in reverse. I tested it both ways, car is still up on jacks, and got no power on pink or green either way...
thanks again ,
Sully
Yes pink needs to be hot with key on.Your idea of the way its is supposed to work is right on.. now you just need to find out why the pink is not hot.
If you want to apply 12 volts to the green wire with the switch in the OPEN position you can do so and see if the rev. lights light HOWEVER dont do it with the switch closed OR apply the 12 volts to the pink UNTIL you find the other end of the pink and why its not hot.did that make sense? (not knowing if the pink is grounded or something else.)
Yeah, I will take you up on that email, sully1882@aol.com. So is the flasher behind the passenger side lower dash panel? I keep thinking that is where it is....
If you want to apply 12 volts to the green wire with the switch in the OPEN position you can do so and see if the rev. lights light HOWEVER dont do it with the switch closed OR apply the 12 volts to the pink UNTIL you find the other end of the pink and why its not hot.did that make sense? (not knowing if the pink is grounded or something else.)
DW... I understand exactly what you mean... I have un hooked the switch already and was thinking about supplying power to the green wire to see if I get illumination on the lamps.... Can i just run a jumper wire from the alternator or even the 12V on the coil? Most any hot will work wont it?
I know it sounds like a silly question, but do you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse at the fuse block? You still haven't said 4 spd or auto, but the 4 spd should have a connector plug on the engine side of the firewall near the driver's side valve cover. Can you follow the pink wire up to see if maybe it's burned by the exhaust? If the negative on your meter is grounded, you should have 12 volts on the pink regardless of what's happening at the b/u lights and grounds in the rear (if the ignition is on)
I know it sounds like a silly question, but do you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse at the fuse block? You still haven't said 4 spd or auto, but the 4 spd should have a connector plug on the engine side of the firewall near the driver's side valve cover. Can you follow the pink wire up to see if maybe it's burned by the exhaust? If the negative on your meter is grounded, you should have 12 volts on the pink regardless of what's happening at the b/u lights and grounds in the rear (if the ignition is on)
At the fuse block I didn't check the volts, I only used a check light. I clipped the ground on the bird cage behind the kick panel and then touched the probe end to both sides of the fuse clips... and the light came on. So I know there is power there, but I will put the multimeter on it tonight and make sure there is 12v+ on both sides. I have a 1972 4spd, sorry, i thought I said that, my bad. I have the switch completely unplugged at the fire wall and was testing the pink and the green at that point...where the plug comes through the firewall to go to the switch. I think I will try putting 12v+ from the alternator to the green wire and see if the lights turn on.... i am betting something is wrong with the pink wire in between the flasher and where the wire goes through the firewall....
man... if only i didn't have to work and was at home.... lol.... so much progress could get done....it's frustrating when you have all these ideas of what could be wrong and what could be checked but can't until you get back home after the day is done...
If putting 12 volts on the wire at the firewall connector makes your b/u lights work, run another wire from the b/u fuse to the connector and bypass the bad wire. Really any switched 12 volt source will work.You'll probably find a broken wire or connection, at least it's not a long distance between them.
If putting 12 volts on the wire at the firewall connector makes your b/u lights work, run another wire from the b/u fuse to the connector and bypass the bad wire. Really any switched 12 volt source will work.You'll probably find a broken wire or connection, at least it's not a long distance between them.
That wire comes through the firewall as two wires on a four speed and not the way other wires do. I would look for the wire to be broken near the firewall. You could pull it back inside to check it out for breaks and where it hooks into the wireing.