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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:45 PM
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After fixing and fixing again,really getting tired.Headlights open and come on, sometimes with some outside help,but won't close when turning off.I've heard about electric conversions.Are there any decent kits available.....?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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First why don't you walk us through everything you have fixed or replaced. The vacuum system is relatively simple and once you understand it you can usually fix these systems with minimal cost and a bit of time in the garage.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Am4wag
After fixing and fixing again,really getting tired.Headlights open and come on, sometimes with some outside help,but won't close when turning off.I've heard about electric conversions.Are there any decent kits available.....?

There's the killer lights,conversion.

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/our_products.html
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
First why don't you walk us through everything you have fixed or replaced. The vacuum system is relatively simple and once you understand it you can usually fix these systems with minimal cost and a bit of time in the garage.
Have replaced all the hoses.The driver's side was "stiff",so I sprayed some PB blaster in the linkage(s) at the actuator-that helped.A couple of weeks ago the pass. side would close fine,but the driver's side needed to be pulled up by hand ,then it would slowly close.It's just hesitant on both sides (not smooth).Theres a hinge kind of like a jack knife that holds them open,but seems to be "jacking" too far,preventing the door(s) from closing when turning the lights off.Can reach up and pull down the jack knife/locking mechanism and they'll close fine.
I realize the vacuum system is'nt too complicated.I strongly think the problem(s) are in the linkage(s).But can't determine if it's from wear or seizure,or both.

Last edited by Am4wag; Sep 10, 2008 at 02:23 PM. Reason: want to add.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Am4wag
Have replaced all the hoses.The driver's side was "stiff",so I sprayed some PB blaster in the linkage(s) at the actuator-that helped.A couple of weeks ago the pass. side would close fine,but the driver's side needed to be pulled up by hand ,then it would slowly close.It's just hesitant on both sides (not smooth).Theres a hinge kind of like a jack knife that holds them open,but seems to be "jacking" too far,preventing the door(s) from closing when turning the lights off.Can reach up and pull down the jack knife/locking mechanism and they'll close fine.

Have you inspected the springs? They help pull that locking knee back out.

It takes vacuum to lower the headlights and if there is a small leak on the back side of the system then the retraction would not be as smooth.

Also, there are bushings that the headlight assemblies pivot up on...maybe check to see if any of those bushings are worn and binding.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Good point DB.......all the springs are there/not broken and seem to be strong.Might you suggest total disassembly of the linkages-clean-grease?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Am4wag
Good point DB.......all the springs are there/not broken and seem to be strong.Might you suggest total disassembly of the linkages-clean-grease?

That can help if they look worn and dry.

However, I think testing with a vacuum gauge and pump might shed some light on this.

Also, when you said you replaced all the vacuum lines did you mean inside as well or just the engine bay?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Replace the seals on the actuator.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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DB,no,not under the dash-as they have been working up until a few weeks ago,but seemingly getting more and more hesitant.That locking knee you mentioned is locking,but does not give-needs to be pulled to let go and allow the doors to close.Could that be the culprit?...........Duke94,very good suggestion and very well may be in the near future,if not very soon.After looking at the price tag on the killer lights product-----holy s%*t.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Am4wag
DB,no,not under the dash-as they have been working up until a few weeks ago,but seemingly getting more and more hesitant.That locking knee you mentioned is locking,but does not give-needs to be pulled to let go and allow the doors to close.Could that be the culprit?...........Duke94,very good suggestion and very well may be in the near future,if not very soon.After looking at the price tag on the killer lights product-----holy s%*t.

Yeah the actuators push that knee back out and the springs help. If there is a vacuum leak on that side it might have trouble actuating the knee. Duke is also correct that you might just need a new actuator.

I have a spare one if you're interested. Just PM me for details.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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I will certainly keep you in mind if it comes down to that DB..........thankyou very much for the gesture and input.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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Do you have Dr. Rebuild's Trouble Shooting Guide? It really helps you figure out what's working, what's not, and WHY.
It's only a few $ and WORTH IT!!!!!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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Discovered the left door actuating relay had a leak-could here it very faintly once I removed it w/the hoses still connected.Thankx for input guys/steered me in the right direction.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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Good luck with getting the vacuum system working properly. If you do decide to go electric, let us know and I can help you through the install. I've done it on mine and I love it, you turn the lights on and they are UP! Turn them off and they're straight down. Yes, it was reasonably expensive, but well worth it IMO...
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