Can anyone tell me what a Corvette Collector Edition engine would be worth?? It is a numbers matching car and engine........

 

Not sure what you are asking? Are you saying you want to find the value of the engine if it were removed from its number matching chassis? If this is the case I do not think your value would be very high. The value is at its highest with the engine and chassis matching each other.

 

This true and i understand, I was curious what the engine would be worth by itself.....

 

Maybe 500 bucks if it is running OK and has low miles

 

Hope that is with shipping too. Not to offend but if the 2 should ever part either the car or the engine would not be worth much. Together they hold much value

 

Not much out of the car. Even if you mod the car, keep the engine-especially with a Collector.

 

The engine is numbers matched to a specific car.

The last 7 digits of the second number stamped on the engine pad are the same as the last 7 digits of the VIN number

 

Don't know where you're getting your info from, but the above is uhhhh ummmm 'an alternate version of the truth'

 

Mike,
Uhhhhh, ummmm, 'at least you were gentle'!
Regards,
Alan

 

Mike,

What's up with the sarcasm?

The information I provided is straight out of the NCRS 1980-82 Corvette Technical Information Manual & Judgins Guide, Third Edition.


I notice that you did not provide YOUR own alternate version of the truth or YOUR sources. which I might guess are within arm's reach.

 

So no portion of the VIN number is stamped on the front pad?Didnt know that but never really looked at an 82 block pad either.Interesting.

 

The engines on all cars are judged by the same process under NCRS rules.

Casting number first (Line A on the judging sheet, 350 points)
Casting date second (Line B, 175 points)
Machine code (what you called the 'build date'), VIN derivative and broach marks third. These are lines C, D and E and are 25, 25 and 38 points each respectively. Applicable engine codes for '82 are ZBA, ZBC and ZBN.

Judging a block (not the engine) stops if the info found is not acceptable.

The above is straight off the latest version of NCRS judging sheets for 78-82, and/or the Spec Guide written by John Amgwert- within an arms reach or click of a mouse.

Further:

There is no rule that says engine cannot be earlier than two weeks (it's certainly not rare!). The 'regular' 82s and Collector Editions I've judged all had engines that followed the above. The stamp pad is difficult to see, but not impossible.

Your post infers that there is no casting date or VIN info on the stamp pad; or at least that the NCRS does not judge either. You are also inferring that Collector Edition engine are different than 'regular' engines. These points are not correct.

The comment that '409 blocks are worth 10K' is probably a one off if it's true at all, and in any case irrelevant. The casting number used for '82 is not in the least rare, and similar to the 0010 block was made in huge quantities.

As other posters have mentioned, the engine separated from it's original car becomes just another engine, nothing more.

 

I'm not a judge and I don't want to get into a pissing contest. I have been doing research on this lately and I thought I would share what I read in the NCRS book that I bought for my wife's car which happens to be an 1982 Collector Edition.

The reason I am doing the research is that I recently discovered that the oringial motor has already been rebuilt .060 over and has bad cracks in one cylinder.

I am weighing the cost of getting the block sleeved at a cost of $300 vs looking for another correct motor vs. saying the hell with it and buying a crate engine. I am not familiar with Corvette engine values other than the huge big block prices I see here and there, I'm just trying to collect as much info as I can. I am familiar with the 348/409 cars as I have had a few, and a correct 409 block can very definately sell for 10k as it makes a much larger difference than that in the value of the car. You can believe that or no, makes no difference to me. You should pick up a Hemmings once in a while.

I'm not intentionally trying to 'infer' anything. If you have correct information, then by all means share it. I would appreciate it as I am trying to decide what to do about this cracked block, but I really don't understand why you choose to be so figgin hostile and make accusations that I am lying.

 

OK that explains part of it. The 409 block you spoke of is actually a 409 cu in engine.I was thinking you were saying the 409 was the last digits in an engine casting number like an 010 block.

 

I still love ya bro' ....you keep on preachin', I'll keep on singing!

 

That was the line of thought I was following too

Curious how we got from a correct 82 engine to a "she's so fine my 409"

 

to anyone other than a corvette purist restoring a 82, that engine isnt worth the iron its made out of.. as far as comparing it to a 409.. well yeah when a 2-bolt 350 becomes are rare as a 409 it just may be worth that kind of money...until then its a generic 350 with no desirable internal componants and a fuel injection system with a bad reputation (deserved or not).

 

I have one of the rarest of all 409 blocks on my stand ('63 425/409), except for a Z-1, and I wouldn't expect more than a couple grand for it, bare.
Maybe I'm out of touch...

Hans

P.S. It is NOT for sale!

 

I mentioned the 409 only as an example of how expensive some original correct blocks can be. Like 427s, some are more rare than others. I do know that the Crossfire engine in not in that league. Nobody would be concerned over spending $300 to sleeve a 409 or 427 block! But for the Crossfire, I really had no idea if I was looking at $200 or $2000.

Anyway, based on what I read here, I went back to do some more homework on this issue and what the NCRS book says about the block number is this, and I quote:

". . . . the last five digits, which are the sequential build (serial) number."

The book also mentions engines being stamped incorrectly: "There are some factory variations, such as the final assembly plant grinding off poor or erroneous stampings, and restamping serial number identfication."

That's pretty much what I had to go on and I interpreted "Serial number" as just that . . the engine serial number stamped at the engine plant. If it was stamped at the final assembly plant, why would they be grinding it off to correct it?

So I checked the numbers on my own car, and found that the "Serial Number" on the block ends in the same 7 digits as the VIN number on the car, creating the link to an individual car.

Therefor I have my answer. I cannot get a 'correct' motor for this car as we could back in the old days ('82 is a 'late model' to me).



FWIW, my NCRS book does have a short discussion on the casting dates in order to detect fakes. It says a judge should report to an official a casting date that is so close the the car build date (three days in one example) that the engine is extremely unlikely to be the original, regardless of how authentic the stampings appear.

 

Wrencher,

That's the one I'm referring to.

From memory it has a slightly different dispacement and came in special edition cars that had aluminum front ends. That's about all I can remember . . . other than the 10K price paid for the block . . and that was years ago!

At one time I had three 1958 Impalas, two rag tops and my hartop 'hot rod'. Relatives and frineds had 409 cars. My cousin put a 409 in his pickup . . just for fun.

Speaking of being out of touch, I sold my last '58 ragtop years ago for a bit over $20k. Know what they go for today?

My hot rod was the last to go. Here she is:

http://www.thecubestudio.com/pictures/ChevyWeb02.jpg