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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Default front end rebuild

I am fixing to start a front end rebuild of my car. Has anyone done this and any tips? I am going to go with a basic kit from Van Steel and do the bushings and ball joints and tie rods. What is the best way to do this and any special tools needed? thanks.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by timd02
I am fixing to start a front end rebuild of my car. Has anyone done this and any tips? I am going to go with a basic kit from Van Steel and do the bushings and ball joints and tie rods. What is the best way to do this and any special tools needed? thanks.
It is non-trivial. See my ongoing and nearly complete saga and some good advice offered by others HERE.

I do not generally have a lot of uninterrupted time to work on my car, so it has taken me a lot longer than it would have, but it is a doable project, just a deceivingly difficult one. I would budget two whole weekends working fairly long days, at least. I go 2 hours at a time, so it takes much longer.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 04:58 PM
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Assuming you are just doing the basics, you need a pickle fork (which may trash the parts you are taking out, but you are replacing them). You may be able to borrow one from the autoparts, but they are not expensive.

R&R of the bushings in the control arms is tough without proper tools. If you have room for a hydralic press you might consider buying one. Since you will probably only use it rarely, one from Harbor Freight should be fine. If seen the bushings replaced without one, but it can get uggggly.

Other than that I can't think of anything off the top of my head that the average joe doesn't have.

You will of course need an alignment as soon as you get it back together.

Your profile isn't filled out, but if you are in the Dallas area you are welcome to come by and use my press.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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It's worth saying again (I mentioned it in my other thread), but putting the bushings and cross shafts in the freezer overnight to shrink them a little made installation a lot easier. Getting the old bushings out took the injudicious use of an air chisel, so you may get some scratches doing it that way, but if your control arms looked like mine, they probably needed a cleaning and repaint anyway.

I have heard of many folks getting their control arms bent up by mechanics that did not use a press correctly, I figured that I would take my chances.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nate99
I have heard of many folks getting their control arms bent up by mechanics that did not use a press correctly, I figured that I would take my chances.
It's not hard to do. The control arms are not strong enough to handle the pressure of pressing in the bushings. You need to support the side being pressed in. It's a bit hard to explain, but once you have it at the press it's real clear. Hate to think a pro would not realize that before he mangled them.

As for getting the old busings out, I just used the press. Need to find the right object to push with, but once setup they will come right out.

And the freezer trick is great for any number of problems. My wife has found bearings in the freezer more than once, but she's missed it when I've had full crank and rod from the kart in it!
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank_833
It's not hard to do. The control arms are not strong enough to handle the pressure of pressing in the bushings. You need to support the side being pressed in. It's a bit hard to explain, but once you have it at the press it's real clear. Hate to think a pro would not realize that before he mangled them.

As for getting the old busings out, I just used the press. Need to find the right object to push with, but once setup they will come right out.

And the freezer trick is great for any number of problems. My wife has found bearings in the freezer more than once, but she's missed it when I've had full crank and rod from the kart in it!
That's awesome, I'm imagining my wife finding an entire crankshaft sitting on top of the ice cream.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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I just did rusted arms and didn't use a press. If the arms are not supported in between the ears the press will wreck them faster then you can image.
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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No one has mentioned being careful getting the spring out and back in. It has a lot of stored energy when you compress it. If it escapes the fiberglass or your head won't stop it!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Definitely a good point, Alan. Be safe with springs. If the OP does a search on installing front springs, he can find out more about the best ways to do so.
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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My wife didn't object to the bearings in the freezer but when I used her turkey baster to put oil in the rear end, she flipped out. (slept in the garage that night).
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 71white
My wife didn't object to the bearings in the freezer but when I used her turkey baster to put oil in the rear end, she flipped out. (slept in the garage that night).
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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The turkey baster is also useful for getting brake fluid out of the master cylinder. That one requires sleeping in the basement!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nate99
Definitely a good point, Alan. Be safe with springs. If the OP does a search on installing front springs, he can find out more about the best ways to do so.


I did my front-end last year. Did a LOT of research on the forum and took my time. Keep safety in mind first and if you get stuck -- you know where to find us. It is useful to have a helper for some of the stuff and I didn't hesitate to get my son involved. The hardest part was getting the springs back in. Be very careful and make sure you are using safe practices . . . those spring carry a lot of load when compressed and can do serious damage or injury. I used spring compressors to get them back in. It was a lot of trial-and-error getting them positioned just right on the springs and getting the springs in the car. I borrowed the spring compression tool (and pickle forks) from AutoZone, but I think the model they had was part of my problem; it had two hooks on one end of the tool and a crossbar on the other. One like this here would have made it much easier I believe.
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