Wider Spark Plug Gap with Pertronix Ignition?
Thanks!

I ran one for a couple of years and found .035 to be fine - nothing gained with a wider gap at all. It will run fine till the Pertronix up and dies on you.......
I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year.
Who knew?




I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year.
Who knew?

I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year.
Who knew?



The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Not only that, but I now had the problem of where to store the removed pertronix unit, as that had now become my emergency back up unit for when the points and condenser failed unexpectedly.
Well that was a long long time ago and I'm still waiting for an unexpected failure so I finally put the petronix unit back in a box and stuck it on my 'waste of money, what was I thinking' shelf in the garage. It's getting very crowded there.
I'm also going to change the coil to the Pertronix model called the Flame-Thrower II, which is rated at 45,000 volts. Given this, should I still keep the spark plug gap at 0.035"?
Thanks for all your help.
I'm also going to change the coil to the Pertronix model called the Flame-Thrower II, which is rated at 45,000 volts. Given this, should I still keep the spark plug gap at 0.035"?
Thanks for all your help.
as far as a wider gap. doesnt the pertronix require a full 12v and a full 12v coil instead of the 6v coil that is oem. which would allow a wider gap on the plug.
the only reason why i dont have one in my vette yet is because i see multiple ones listed for the vette and i am not sure which one is better.




Also, the Flamethrower and Ignitor combo will rev way past what a single points set-up will. I've had it up to 7000 RPM in a 327 car without missing a beat. A dual-point distributor will barely do 7000 and no way will typical single points system go 7000.
If RPM is HP, then the Ignitor is definetly a performance upgrade.
Plus, I'm going to guess tens of thousands of these units have been sold and the failure rate is low.
FWIW.
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Sep 21, 2008 at 10:42 PM.
the stock, single points distributor on my '65 I've had often at the 6500rpm redline without missing a beat and a few times I've had the car well beyond that with the tach buried which put it at 7500rpm without missing a beat, no points float, and still pulling strong.
This is a 100% stock L76 327/365hp motor.
but not as low as the failure rate of points.......... of which millions have been sold and used over decades with great reliability.
the stock, single points distributor on my '65 I've had often at the 6500rpm redline without missing a beat and a few times I've had the car well beyond that with the tach buried which put it at 7500rpm without missing a beat, no points float, and still pulling strong.
This is a 100% stock L76 327/365hp motor.
but not as low as the failure rate of points.......... of which millions have been sold and used over decades with great reliability.
i've beat this point to death on WAY too many threads but people still insist on wasting their money on these conversion kits regardless.
I truely believe the ONLY people that really benefit from these kits are the vendors selling them.
And for the people that say they have seen an improvement in easier starting, better idle, or better performance, they would have seen the identical improvement by simply overhauling/rebuilding their point distributor back to correct tolerances. The conversion kits are simply masking overriding problems in the distributor such as too much endplay on the mainshaft causing dwell to fluctuate, etc
The ironic part is that generally it would have cost them LESS to rebuild the distributor than the electronic conversion kits cost them and they'd have overall better reliability with the stock points. Go figure!
As for less maintenance, if taking an extra 5 minutes once a year to check and set dwell when checking and setting timing during your annual "Spring tune-up" is too much extra work than they probably shouldn't be owning an older classic car anyway - buy a new C6 and just drive it.

Hmmm, wonder how many responses I'll get from THIS response. I'm sure it ain't gonna be pretty!


















