I will be getting my 700R-4 that was built to handle 500HP and Torque in a few days and I think I have decided to install it myself. This will be my first transmission swap and I am kind of new to the whole thing. I kind of feel like I am getting in a bit over my head with this one and was hoping someone could impart some wisdom on the matter. Is this something I should attempt to do? I will be doing this on a military base so I have access to a lift and all the tools necessary. Is there any general tips anyone could give me, or perhaps know where I could find instructions?

As I was looking at my old transmission I noticed a few things that I had questions about. First, how do you remove the driveshaft at the differential so as to slide the whole driveshaft and yoke out of the tranny. There seems to be a non removeable crossmember in the way.

Second, what is the electrical harness on the drivers side. It is the only electrical harness going to the tranny. I was thinking perhaps it is the lock up kit, but shouldnt that wiring go to the converter?

My last question, I got this lockup kit from bowtie overdrives http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=330 Appartenly I have to hook up 1 wire to ground, 1 to the converter, and another to the "cold side" of the brake light wiring. Does anyone know where I could connect to the "cold side" of the brake light wiring?

Thank you,

Nathan

 

I have not done this but will be in the near future as my 2-3 shift is weak.

From what I understand, you usually need to reuse your old tail shaft section as the replacment 700R4 may not be the same length.

I think all you would need to do is remove the driveshaft at both ends and it will fall out of the way. The 82 auto crossmember is only bolted on, not welded like manual cars are, so if you want, 4 bolts (and the E-brake cable roller guide) and its out of the way if needed.

As for a lock up kit from BTO, why? Your 82 already has a 700R4 that is ECM controlled lockup. You dont need an additional kit. Usually people buying this kit did not have a 700R4 to begin with, and have no way of locking up the TCC .

I would invest in the GM shop manual (Helms) for the 82 corvette. You can probably buy on Flea-bay or go to any of the catalog houses and they will sell you one (reprints). Its money well spent if you plan to keep the car around for a while.

B...

 

Thanks for the information. The crossmember I was talking about that is not removeable is the rear crossmember. It seems that crossmember is in the way of the rear U-joints on the driveshaft. My question about that is how to remove the rear side of the driveshaft at the differential with that crossmember in the way.

Also, I cannot use the stock ECM controlled lock up kit since my ECM is sitting on the garage floor. When I put in my 388 Stroker I went carbureted and completely non computer controlled. I guess I should have mentioned that. Thanks.

 

1. You have to use a 1/4" drive socket/ ratchet with LONG extension(s).

2. The connector on the side of the tranny is for the converter.

3. It's a switch on the brake pedal mechanism.

God bless, Sensei

 

Thanks for the info a1sensei. Just to clarify, the connector on the side of the tranny is the actual controlling harness for the converter? So there need not be an actual wire going to the converter itself? And as far as the lockup kit goes, I believe I got the other kit they offer. BTO said it connects to the brake light wiring and not the actual brake switch. Did I misunderstand? Thanks,

Nathan

 

Hope this helps have fun

Physco

 

Yes, the connector on the side is the only one.

As Physco said, your car came stock with the wiring to lock it up, if it still exists (which it probably does). Just plug and play!

If not, the kit you have may have a relay that works to interupt the lockup current when the brake light circuit is hot. You could still hook into it at the brake pedal switch.

God bless, Sensei

 

Thanks physcovette, I guess I will just take off the straps at the front yoke and keep the driveline connected to the read U-joint.

As far as the converter goes, I took out the computer and am running a carb instead of the crossfire. This means the the original lock up kit is not going to work right? I would love to save myself the headache of intalling a new lock up kit, but I really don't think the original one is going to work with the ECM completely out of the vehicle.

 

YOu would be correct in that. in that case you will need the new lock up kit. Sice you got rid of the crossfire do you have any of the pieces to it left?

 

Sorry, I wish I did, I know it could be worth something to someone. The crossfire kit was gone when I bought the car. I put in the 388 stroker as soon as I bought the car so the crossfire kit didn't matter to me.

MN-Brent mentioned that I will need to reuse the old tailshaft. That is just splined on right? So it should just slide out of the old tranny and into the new one?

 

Your original lock up system is probably still usable. All you need to do is make sure you have 12 volts going into the brake pedal switch. Just test at the terminal, the 12 volts may already be there. If not, just cut the wire that should be the 12v source (going into the switch) and run it a few inches to a 12v source on the fuse block.

With any luck, you may just plug the existing plug into your new tranny and it will work. If not, making it work would be easy as long as Bubba hasn't removed the wiring.

God bless, Sensei

 

what kind of tranny is on now ?

 

My Vette (1982) came with a 700R-4, but was computer controlled. I am putting in a 700R-4 but the computer is gone.

 

My '80 had a lock up th350 that was "computer controlled", I'm not sure what the computer has to do with it though. 12 volts goes down a wire to the brake pedal switch (safety measure) and on to the tranny. I plugged it into the 700r4 I installed a while back and it works. I've never seen the computer cut the 12v and stop lockup. The tranny will lock up when it goes into 4th gear as long as it has 12v at the terminal, and it always does. It's really not rocket science.

God bless, Sensei

 

Thanks a1sensei, I'm going to take a multimeter out to the car today and see if I've got the 12 volts ignition power and 12 volts brakes on power at the harness.