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Does anyone know a good clean spot to get 12 volt key on power from an 82? I need it for my lock up kit and I wouldn't know the first place to start looking.
Does anyone know a good clean spot to get 12 volt key on power from an 82? I need it for my lock up kit and I wouldn't know the first place to start looking.
I think the wire that powers the coil is a good candidate. You can get a cheap circuit tester with a probe and a light and find a spot on the fuse panel also. There are connectors available that plug into one of the fuse contacts and allow you to attach a wire. Not the most elegant solution but it would work.
Would it be wise to connect the lock up kit to the starter solenoid where the cable from the positive side of the battery connects to the starter?
That would be hot all the time unless your talking about the R term.and thats only hot while the solenoid is engaged.
What is a lock up kit and how many amps does it require?
Would it be wise to connect the lock up kit to the starter solenoid where the cable from the positive side of the battery connects to the starter?
That would be a constant 12V source. If you need a source that is only 12V when the key is in the Start or Run position use either the coil power wire or find a source in the fuse block. If you use the fuse block try to figure out which connector is the output of the fuse so the circuit will be protected. I like to have everything protected. If your kit has an inline fuse holder make sure you either use it or tap off a fused circuit. Fires are no fun.
Do you have a link to the kit that you are talking about? I'm in the middle of wiring up my LS1 harness and I'm connecting relays, fuses, etc. so I'm juiced on the juice right now.
I'm not sure if it matters if it is hot all the time or just with the key on, but I wonder if it would drain the battery The lock up kit I am talking about is http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=330 It is just a relay that sends 12v to the torque converter telling it to lock up in 4th gear unless the brakes are pressed. I am not sure how many amps it takes. I don't think it would require the amount of amps that I would get directly from the battery, or if that many amps would do it any harm.
Thank you 72LS1Vette, your info has helped me a lot in figuring this out. I was just wondering if perhaps you could explain this a bit more.
Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
If you use the fuse block try to figure out which connector is the output of the fuse so the circuit will be protected. I like to have everything protected.
What do you mean figure out which connector is the output of the fuse? I apologize, I am kind of new to vehicle electrical systems. Thank you.
I'm not sure if it matters if it is hot all the time or just with the key on, but I wonder if it would drain the battery The lock up kit I am talking about is http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=330 It is just a relay that sends 12v to the torque converter telling it to lock up in 4th gear unless the brakes are pressed. I am not sure how many amps it takes. I don't think it would require the amount of amps that I would get directly from the battery, or if that many amps would do it any harm.
OK. The kit seems to have all of the wiring (including fuse) covered. Follow the instructions and you should be OK. I doubt that you will need 100 or so amps to lock up your converter. A constant 12V source will keep the relay energized all the time and may cause a constant current draw (draining the battery) or worse, a burned out relay. BowtieOverdirves mentions that they wire their transmissions internally to possibly work with this kit so you might be stuck with having to manually switch your trans into lockup.
Thank you 72LS1Vette, your info has helped me a lot in figuring this out. I was just wondering if perhaps you could explain this a bit more.
What do you mean figure out which connector is the output of the fuse? I apologize, I am kind of new to vehicle electrical systems. Thank you.
It's easy if you get a circuit tester with a probe and light. Once you find a fuse socket that lights up when you turn the key on, remove the fuse and probe each of the connections. The one that lights up with the key on is the source and the one that doesn't is the post-fuse connection.
I'd recommend tapping into the fuse block only as a last resort. If you connect another circuit to a fuse and it draws too much power you risk blowing fuses. For example, if you connected a new electric fuel pump to the same circuit that runs the electric rear defroster everything might be fine until the first frosty day. Turn on the defroster and all of a sudden the engine dies.
If you do a search for wiring diagrams there is someone who is giving away diagrams for the asking. Get one for your year and take a look at it. It might be confusing at first but you will at least be able to identify connections and color codes so you will know what wires you are looking at.
Why not just pick it up at the fuse block. It has extra taps for BATtery voltage (unswitched) and IGNition voltage (12vdc switched on with ignition). You can't do much better than that.
Thank you for all of the help, I will check it out tomorrow morning and see what I can find. 7T1vette - That sounds like exactly what I was looking for. I might also look where I can splice into the coil power wire or the pink wire at ignition harness as suggested. The extra taps at the fuse block sounds the best and safest though. Thank you. This forum is so full of very knowledgeable members that are so willing to help. It has helped me out tremendously.
I have a 1980 which had a th350. I installed a 200R4. Not sure if the 82s are the same or not. But I used the same wires that plugged into the TH350 and just used the different connector from BTO for the 200R4- no need to find another 12V source.
That is a good point Darrel1. Does anyone know exactly what signals the stock lock up kit used on a 1982 Vette. I was under the impression that it used signals from the ECM, which I no longer have installed, but if it uses a signal directly from the brakes, I might be in luck. I guess I will disconnect the harness and bring a multimeter out there and see if I can get 12V from any of the wires when the key is on, and another 12V when the brakes are pressed. If the wiring is already there it sure would save me a lot of headache. Then I can just use those 2 wires and remove the rest of the stock lockup kit. Thanks
That is a good point Darrel1. Does anyone know exactly what signals the stock lock up kit used on a 1982 Vette. I was under the impression that it used signals from the ECM, which I no longer have installed, but if it uses a signal directly from the brakes, I might be in luck. I guess I will disconnect the harness and bring a multimeter out there and see if I can get 12V from any of the wires when the key is on, and another 12V when the brakes are pressed. If the wiring is already there it sure would save me a lot of headache. Then I can just use those 2 wires and remove the rest of the stock lockup kit. Thanks
The brake switch is strictly just a disconnect for safty! So in an emergency stop the engine woundn't stall because the back wheels locked and the lock-up was still engaged You should have 2 wires on the brake switch. One is the brake light the other is the disconnect for cruise control and TCC. The lock up fuction is controled by the ECM using its sensors to make calculations to lock up & disconnect. If you have the original wiring harness you can find 12v in the rear compartment
BB427 as far as the pink wire goes, is it 12v just when the key is in "start" during starting or also in "run". Thanks for the help.
Yes the pink wire is energized through crank and while running only. The red is a constant 12v all time. I have never installed a lock up but if you give me a link to one I can info you how to wire up the relay. I can even wire 1 up and post a pic for you. However if your just wiring a relay I would use the red to give your relay power pending if you need a pos or neg feed to the lock up is very simple.
DO NOT just run a wire from the column to the unit unless it is fused. If you need help email me> bodybysteel@aol.com
BB427 thanks for all of the info. I might just take you up on your offer of helping me wire up the relay. First though I was wondering if you could help me identify some wires. I have 3 wires (pink, orange, blue) coming from the wire harness connected to the transmission and disappear somewhere in a group of wires under the dash. Do you know where these go to? Or perhaps a wiring diagram that I can look at that might help? Thank you,
I dont know the wire destinations are. However in GM pink is use for ignition powered leads and orange for accessory power leads .I have never had the need to test the wires at the tranny so I dont know the blue and my wire program only shows wires that that pertain to anything inside the cab and some under hood. Dont just quote me on these wires always test them first. Ignition lead will be dead at key off powered up through crank and running untill key is off. Accessory will power up @ key acc position , key on and while running just not during cranking.