Setting Static Time for first start or changed distributor
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Setting Static Time for first start or changed distributor
Here is the directions & they seem like really good ones. I'm following these to the letter because I just changed distributors & the last thing I need is another fire or worse.
For my next video I'm going to do the steps in these directions & show that even I (not a mechanic) can do it.
Problem is, I'm already stumped
. Nothing to do with the directions, they are great. It has to do with my particular car / motor.
So far I've modified a spark plug, put a balloon on it & turned the motor so that it blows up (the balloon not the motor. I'm crossing my fingers.)
The directions say to put the line on 10 & my car only has 2 markings. 33 a line 34 & then a line that says 0. How am I supposed to figure out where 10 is? Granted my motor is a circle track motor & the concept of stock parts went out the window a long time ago. Any advice on this point would be great.
Hopefully I wont run into too many more problems with this & when I get the video done I'll post it on here so that anybody else that changes a distributer for the first time can do this a little easier.
Try this way.
Looking at the front of the engine from the front of the car the balancer turns clockwise. The distributer turns clockwise looking down at it.
Almost foolproof method:
Get an old spark plug that fits the engine.
Knock the guts out of it with a punch and hammer.
Stretch a balloon over the spark plug leaving the threads exposed. (Balloons from Dollar Store)
Hand tighten the balloon/spark plug into the #1 hole.
Disconnect power to distributor or make sure ignition is off.
Slowly turn over engine in clockwise direction with a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer center bolt.
Balloon will fill with air when approaching #1 firing position. It won't stay full so you have to watch it closely.
The mark on the balancer will be at approx 6 o'clock, so forget about the balloon and continue turning the engine over.
Continue to turn engine until the mark on balancer reaches the 10° BTDC mark.
This is close to the initial timed firing position.
Install dist with the rotor pointing approximately at the #2 terminal on the cap. (Just before #1 on cap)
Push down slowly and you will feel the gears mesh and the rotor will move toward the #1 position.
If it is going to go past #1, then slowly pull up on the distributer until you feel the gears "unmesh". then turn the rotor more towards the #2 direction with slight pressure down until you feel you have moved over 1 more tooth.
Then push down as far as it will go again to see if it is close to lining up with #1 terminal.
If the distributer housing base where you clamp it tight has a gap between it and the intake manifold, then the oil shaft has not lined up.
If this is the case, then the rotor should be between the #1 and #2 terminals on the cap.
Then just push down lightly on the distributer housing (watch out for spinning rotor) while someone cranks the starter over, and it will drop in place and the timing will be correct to fire up.
It may sound a little confusing, but try it and it's pretty simple and is is the easiest way I have found.
To check it, do the balloon thing again with the distributor now being fully seated on the intake. Turn the distributer housing until the rotor leading edge meets the #1 cap terminal. If the housing is oriented properly as in the first pic then you will have ample room for the vacuum advance can to turn the distributer for timing. Now clamp the distributor fairly tight and use you timing lite to time engine to your specs.
Use one of the papers in a sticky at top.
Looking at the front of the engine from the front of the car the balancer turns clockwise. The distributer turns clockwise looking down at it.
Almost foolproof method:
Get an old spark plug that fits the engine.
Knock the guts out of it with a punch and hammer.
Stretch a balloon over the spark plug leaving the threads exposed. (Balloons from Dollar Store)
Hand tighten the balloon/spark plug into the #1 hole.
Disconnect power to distributor or make sure ignition is off.
Slowly turn over engine in clockwise direction with a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer center bolt.
Balloon will fill with air when approaching #1 firing position. It won't stay full so you have to watch it closely.
The mark on the balancer will be at approx 6 o'clock, so forget about the balloon and continue turning the engine over.
Continue to turn engine until the mark on balancer reaches the 10° BTDC mark.
This is close to the initial timed firing position.
Install dist with the rotor pointing approximately at the #2 terminal on the cap. (Just before #1 on cap)
Push down slowly and you will feel the gears mesh and the rotor will move toward the #1 position.
If it is going to go past #1, then slowly pull up on the distributer until you feel the gears "unmesh". then turn the rotor more towards the #2 direction with slight pressure down until you feel you have moved over 1 more tooth.
Then push down as far as it will go again to see if it is close to lining up with #1 terminal.
If the distributer housing base where you clamp it tight has a gap between it and the intake manifold, then the oil shaft has not lined up.
If this is the case, then the rotor should be between the #1 and #2 terminals on the cap.
Then just push down lightly on the distributer housing (watch out for spinning rotor) while someone cranks the starter over, and it will drop in place and the timing will be correct to fire up.
It may sound a little confusing, but try it and it's pretty simple and is is the easiest way I have found.
To check it, do the balloon thing again with the distributor now being fully seated on the intake. Turn the distributer housing until the rotor leading edge meets the #1 cap terminal. If the housing is oriented properly as in the first pic then you will have ample room for the vacuum advance can to turn the distributer for timing. Now clamp the distributor fairly tight and use you timing lite to time engine to your specs.
Use one of the papers in a sticky at top.
Problem is, I'm already stumped
. Nothing to do with the directions, they are great. It has to do with my particular car / motor. So far I've modified a spark plug, put a balloon on it & turned the motor so that it blows up (the balloon not the motor. I'm crossing my fingers.)
The directions say to put the line on 10 & my car only has 2 markings. 33 a line 34 & then a line that says 0. How am I supposed to figure out where 10 is? Granted my motor is a circle track motor & the concept of stock parts went out the window a long time ago. Any advice on this point would be great.
Hopefully I wont run into too many more problems with this & when I get the video done I'll post it on here so that anybody else that changes a distributer for the first time can do this a little easier.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
You can put a timing tape on the harmonic balancer or you could get a dial back (adjustable) timing light. A speed shop or maybe even an auto parts store would have the timing tape. You need to tell them the diameter of the balancer to get the right tape.
Last edited by SH-60B; Sep 25, 2008 at 06:41 PM. Reason: spelling
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 665
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From: wilmington nc
You can also put a finger over the sparkplug hole an turn the rachet with the other hand, it"ll let you know when it comes up! You could have saved that balloon money an used it to refill your fire extenguishers
Thread Starter
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,284
Likes: 235
From: Rockledge FL
just put the index mark at 0 and the rotor at the #1 wire
this is total top dead center so it might run a little rough to start with but it should crank.
then once its running turn distributer until idle smooths out.
once car is warmed up set timing with the light.
this is total top dead center so it might run a little rough to start with but it should crank.
then once its running turn distributer until idle smooths out.
once car is warmed up set timing with the light.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
You could measure the outer circumference of the balancer. Then take a piece of masking tape that same length and divide it into 4 even segments. Each of those segments equal 90 degrees. Divide those 4 segments in half and each segment equals 15 degrees. Take this tape and wrap it around the balancer starting at zero degrees. You can transfer each of those marks to the balancer with a different color than you used for zero now you have a balancer that is marked every 15 degrees.
On a side note, you don't really need to transfer but enough marks to get you to about 60 degrees.
On a side note, you don't really need to transfer but enough marks to get you to about 60 degrees.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Taylor Michigan
As long as you have adjusted the valves correctly its a simple matter to find #1. With the balancer at '0' [zero} remove a valve cover and check to see if the pushrods are loose on 1. If there tight your on 6. either one is OK, just set the rotor at the appropriate cylinder. Move the balancer back to whatever lead you want the engine to have. then rotate the distributor until the points break.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
One of these will help with the timing mark problem
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.%20Gasket/720/4598/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.%20Gasket/720/4598/10002/-1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
One of these will help with the timing mark problem
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.%20Gasket/720/4598/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.%20Gasket/720/4598/10002/-1
On closer inspection, my timing chain cover has a little triangle welded to it for use as an arrow. Granted the shop i got the motor from looked like NASA to me so I'm sure they knew what they were doing when they put it on there. However, I don't know what they were doing so that doesn't help me much. I may have to cut that little piece off to install this but thats no big deal if I have to.
How do I measure the balancer to get the right one for it? Do I measure it all the way around or from side to side? Whats a common size it most likely is to compare to the measurement I get?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
Side to side. 6 3/4" I think. But if you have an adjustable light, just skip the tape and use the light. You will set the light for 10 degrees (example) and adjust the distributor so the balancer mark and the chain cover pointer (0 degrees) line up at idle, and there you have 10 degrees of initial advance.
Last edited by SH-60B; Sep 26, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
As long as you have adjusted the valves correctly its a simple matter to find #1. With the balancer at '0' [zero} remove a valve cover and check to see if the pushrods are loose on 1. If there tight your on 6. either one is OK, just set the rotor at the appropriate cylinder. Move the balancer back to whatever lead you want the engine to have. then rotate the distributor until the points break.
I'm going to assume they did what was needed to the valves. I did notice that when the balloon on #1 was inflated that the pointer was almost on 0 so I think that means its setup right, for #1 to be #1 but please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Side to side. 6 3/4" I think. But if you have an adjustable light, just skip the tape and use the light. You will set the light for 10 degrees (example) and adjust the distributor so the balancer mark and the chain cover pointer (0 degrees) line up at idle, and there you have 10 degrees of initial advance.
I'm not real sure I'm getting power to the distributor because the timing light wont flash. Key was on, Put a spark plug in #1 wire, plug touching frame with the timing light thing on wire #1.
On the distributor, there is a place for 2 wires to snap in. Left says B-, no wire. Right says C+, has a red wire. This is how it was but that doesn't mean its correct. Should there be something plugged into the left where it says B- or should the red wire be moved over?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,359
Likes: 787
From: Redondo Beach, California
The way I make sure the rotor is pointing at the number 1 terminal.
I took an old HEI distributor cap and cut a slotted window in the side of the cap. The window shows the inside terminal of #1. I know the rotor is pointed to #1 since I can look through the window and see it.
I made a slotted window using a dremel with a small cut-off wheel. The cut-off wheel is intended to be used to cut off small pieces of metal, but it just melts it's way into the distributor cap plastic. Makes a nice cut.
I took an old HEI distributor cap and cut a slotted window in the side of the cap. The window shows the inside terminal of #1. I know the rotor is pointed to #1 since I can look through the window and see it.
I made a slotted window using a dremel with a small cut-off wheel. The cut-off wheel is intended to be used to cut off small pieces of metal, but it just melts it's way into the distributor cap plastic. Makes a nice cut.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 752
Likes: 31
From: Melbourne Australia
...another trick.
One trick I use for static timing once distributor is installed is as follows.
I make up a bundle of eight old spark plugs. I use a wire to ground the plugs to the block then connect each of the spark plug leads to the "bundle" of plugs.
I remove the existing plugs out of the motor and disconnect/block the fuel lines.
I can then use a timing light on the #1 wire to set the static timing while simply cranking the engine. It cranks nice and fast with no plugs in, and no risk if fuel lines not connected.
Joe
I make up a bundle of eight old spark plugs. I use a wire to ground the plugs to the block then connect each of the spark plug leads to the "bundle" of plugs.
I remove the existing plugs out of the motor and disconnect/block the fuel lines.
I can then use a timing light on the #1 wire to set the static timing while simply cranking the engine. It cranks nice and fast with no plugs in, and no risk if fuel lines not connected.
Joe
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
OK, I think I'm all set. 
I've got #1 on the compression stroke with the balloon.
Timing mark on 0, will run ruff but will adjust with timing advance light.
Got the distributor in & lined up with the #1 spot. (I just used a Sharpie to put a dot straight down from where the #1 wire is before pulling the top off)
Put the wheels on, took it off the stands & rolled it outside.
I think I'm all set!
I'm going to turn it over & see what happens in about an hour when my buddy gets home. (He knows how to use the fire extinguisher now)
If you can think of anything I need to check haller back right quick.
I've got #1 on the compression stroke with the balloon.
Timing mark on 0, will run ruff but will adjust with timing advance light.
Got the distributor in & lined up with the #1 spot.
(I just used a Sharpie to put a dot straight down from where the #1 wire is before pulling the top off)Put the wheels on, took it off the stands & rolled it outside.
I think I'm all set!
I'm going to turn it over & see what happens in about an hour when my buddy gets home. (He knows how to use the fire extinguisher now
)If you can think of anything I need to check haller back right quick.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Johnson City Tennessee
Well, no go.
Got all excited for nothin.
No spark. I'll have to ask advice on checking that out. I know the distributor is good because it ran on the other motor & I haven't messed with it.
My buddy said to "replace the flobbit". I'm pretty sure thats what the problem is. Now, if I can just find the darn thing.
If nothing else, i did wash it & get 4 months of dust off of it & see it in the sun light so the day wasn't a total waste.
Got all excited for nothin.
No spark. I'll have to ask advice on checking that out. I know the distributor is good because it ran on the other motor & I haven't messed with it.
My buddy said to "replace the flobbit". I'm pretty sure thats what the problem is. Now, if I can just find the darn thing.
If nothing else, i did wash it & get 4 months of dust off of it & see it in the sun light so the day wasn't a total waste.
Last edited by MrGoFaster; Sep 28, 2008 at 08:45 PM.