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Trailing Arm Bolts

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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 08:24 PM
  #21  
daily_driver's Avatar
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From: colorado springs CO
Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Chuck Gongloff)

the method which is the most easy and the most fun???

OXY / ACETYLENE TORCH OHHHH YAAAAAHHH!!!


fire fire fireeeee fiiire fire fiiiiirrrrrrreee :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :conehead :conehead :conehead :conehead

get that torch out and melt em out like butter!!!!

thats what i did..

i have the frozen bushing on my desk right now... i use it as a paper weight...and a symbolic reminder of what a PITA it was to redo my vette right.

just remember beavis and butthead/.... fiiiire fiireeee fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiirrrreee



:jester :jester
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 08:27 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (daily_driver)

oh and i should also mention at that time i was only replacing those bushings with poly ones...

therefor, i didnt even have to take the a-arm completely off the car!!! you can yank it outta the frame pocket on a rolling jack....

pretty easy job...
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 09:50 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)

My experience was the same as Chris (71 roadster). After your shims are removed (which is the hardest part) you will have space to use a sawzall with a 6" blade. The bolts will probably be seized in the bushings. If you can't remove the bolts you'll have to put in new bushings. I don't like the torch method. Tom
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 10:17 PM
  #24  
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From: Ontario
Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Chuck Gongloff)

Chuck, When I did the rear bearings the T/A were just hanging. I did not do the t-arms as they are in good shape. A little bit of surface rust but I do not worry about that. I only learned of a possible alignment problem after the fact. On the bearings, we ruined one spindle by applying 20-ton pressure at a local machine shop to get the old bearings off. The end mushroomed. Scared the &**& out of me when it snapped. This is not a job for amateurs. It seemed to be a lack of grease in 1979 at the factory. The original bearimgs were dry. That I would not recommend for most home mechanics.
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 10:22 PM
  #25  
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From: Ontario
Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Chuck Gongloff)

Thanks, Chuck. I appeciate the opinion of a Dentist. You do get to the root of a problem.
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 11:22 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)

Hi paul,
I did this job in August. I tried the sawzall method, however I had a couple
of poor quality blades. The teeth came off and only scratched the bolt.

It was on a Sunday and nothing open.
Nuts came off ok, however I had non slotted shims.
So I drilled a small hole in the bolt, (thru the shims), with no problem.
Then used a larger drill and increased the size of the hole.
I kept doing this until the bolt was severed.
Took about 10 minutes.

This worked for me, however all the suggestions should work.
Barry
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 11:32 PM
  #27  
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From: Charles Town WV
Default Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)

All of this talk of Torches and saws has me thinking the lot of you is a carne insana!

My bolts were frozen and rusted.

I hit it with a butt load of penetrating oil. Then backed the bolt with a wrench and used a box wrench with a cheater pipe to break the nut loose. The bolt still wouldn't come out. I got the bolt as far as I could with a hammer then made this handy tool from a huge nail at home depot. I put it in my bench vise and heated the places I was bending with a propane torch to make them a little more maleable.



Use it like this (imagine the tire not being there):



It took me maybe an hour to get each side done. my bushings were shot all to hell too.

Once you have the bolt recessed a little smack this puppy with a 5 lb sledge. It may take a little bit but at least it allows you to punch the bolt out without fear of whacking your fender.


[Modified by Steve Straus, 10:35 PM 1/8/2002]
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