Trailing Arm Bolts
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Ontario
Trailing Arm Bolts
Old topic I know! I am getting my parts department ready for spring/April. I was kindly presented with a gift certificate from Paragon for birthday/Christmas. One item I would like to replace are those trailing arm bolts. I have the SS shims. Last summer I had a four-wheel alignment done and the back was just a "little" off. The car tracks very well but the shop would not go near those old shims. And I understand that very well from what I have read here: they are welded on by ferric oxide. Some members have used saw-zall and other methods to get those bolts off. Apparently it takes hours. The alignment shop said four hours per side. But I was intrigued by one poster who said he used a torch: about one minute or so per side. The shop said at your peril and at risk of your paint job. And perhaps the body in that area. This is not a major issue as the car drives very nicely with no abnormal tire wear but I would like to have the alignment job completed. Sort of an **** thing as I may sell this summer and want the next owner to have the best 1979 in this neck of the woods. Q: Can those bolts be torched off? I had the bearings done last summer and the T/As are just fine.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Orlando Fl
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
I also heard that they can be torched off but the risk is great imo. The gas lines run close by and the risk of melting some fiberglass???. I did it the tough way and hit it with the sawzall. It did take many hours and sore muscles. Everyone has thier opinions on this job. Some claim a sledge hammer and chisel may drive it out but it didn't work for me. I did warm them up with a torch but it didn't help at all. My only option was do it with the saw or pay someone else to figure it out. Good luck. :smash:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,201
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From: Clifton Park NY
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
Paul,
I used a sawzall to remove mine, and it took me about 4 hours. Ugly job.... Wouldn't do it on somebody else's car.... Anyway, if you wanna try the torch, be careful not to damage the TAs. Check this out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=201107
-Pedro
I used a sawzall to remove mine, and it took me about 4 hours. Ugly job.... Wouldn't do it on somebody else's car.... Anyway, if you wanna try the torch, be careful not to damage the TAs. Check this out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=201107
-Pedro
Racer
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 494
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From: new mexico
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
I don't know what you guys are talking about the T/A bolts being hard to get out. Just did mine. Tapped out the bolt with a small punch. Oh and another thing what is with this salt that's on the road? The road department doesn't do this here in New Mexico.
In honesty I do feel sorry for you guys with rusted in bolts. I did soak mine with liquid wrench for a week before I tried to take them out. I would try tapping them out before the sawsall of torch. Good luck
In honesty I do feel sorry for you guys with rusted in bolts. I did soak mine with liquid wrench for a week before I tried to take them out. I would try tapping them out before the sawsall of torch. Good luck
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Ontario
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Pedro'74)
Pedro and TQ999. I waited a long time to get some $5,000 of paint on my car. Modest income and other economic priorities does delay some C3 upgrades. I do not want to spoil that accomplishment. My initial thought was to go for the saw-zall and I do have access to one. I understand that a "bi-metallic" blade is the correct choice. But that 30-second torch solution suggested in an earlier post was appealing. I will await other opinions before making a decision....I have strong support amongst local Corvette Club members to help me; whatever decision I make.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,662
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From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
Paul,
If you decided to try the torch, make sure you have a good fire-extinguisher handy, a bucket of water and a water hose ready to go. You might also look for some spark cloth to cover around the area you are cutting.
If you are well prepared and are careful with the cutting, you should be okay. Remember a fiberglass car will burn like its made out of plastic... Wait a minute, they are made out of plastic! :D
If you decided to try the torch, make sure you have a good fire-extinguisher handy, a bucket of water and a water hose ready to go. You might also look for some spark cloth to cover around the area you are cutting.
If you are well prepared and are careful with the cutting, you should be okay. Remember a fiberglass car will burn like its made out of plastic... Wait a minute, they are made out of plastic! :D
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 698
From: grand rapids, lowell mi. area
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
Hey Paul
If you sell your toy ,will you buy another one? I remember you saying awhile ago that you would like to have a C2.I dont know if you are still thinking about that ,but let me tell you from experince they were not that great of cars, and rode alot harder then your 79!!!!
I might would trade you even up ,but I keep the sidepipes!!!!!! Bill B
If you sell your toy ,will you buy another one? I remember you saying awhile ago that you would like to have a C2.I dont know if you are still thinking about that ,but let me tell you from experince they were not that great of cars, and rode alot harder then your 79!!!!
I might would trade you even up ,but I keep the sidepipes!!!!!! Bill B
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa Ok
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Bills79)
If you are forced to cut off the trailing arm bolt, the best tool IMO is a dreimel with a reinforced cutoff wheel. Cut the nut off and drive the bolt out ~10min.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (Bills79)
Great to hear from you Bill! Yes, I am thinking of going back to a C2 or up to a 1991-92 Triple White. I do understand that C2s are not terribly well handling cars but I sure do like them. Unfortunately, I do not consider them good value for the dollars asked. I do like the Triple White owing to the seats and driving comfort. I have a lower back problem. But I have read in some posts that the C4 seats are worse than the C3s. That is hard to believe but I will try a C4 in the spring before I make that decision.
[Modified by paul79, 4:11 PM 1/8/2002]
[Modified by paul79, 4:11 PM 1/8/2002]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 3
From: San Diego CA
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
No it is not that simple if the problem lies elsewhere, Having just done this a week ago I can tell you from experience. My trailing arm bolts was/is completely fused to the bushing shell - even with the arm out of the car - getting the bolt out (of the bushing) is not happening - I had to cut the bolt on both sides of the trailing arm to get it out.
The head of the bolt is still fused to the frame rail such that fron inside the trailing arm pocket - you cant even tell there is supposed to be a hole there - I will tackle that this weekend.
If it were as simple as cutting the head off then you really didnt have any problem.
[Modified by fauxrs, 1:27 PM 1/8/2002]
The head of the bolt is still fused to the frame rail such that fron inside the trailing arm pocket - you cant even tell there is supposed to be a hole there - I will tackle that this weekend.
If it were as simple as cutting the head off then you really didnt have any problem.
[Modified by fauxrs, 1:27 PM 1/8/2002]
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Ontario
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (FeedVaal)
When I did the rear bearings last summer that was not a problem. Probably because when I replaced the shocks some eight years ago I added a bit of grease on the mounting surfaces. Installed AC Delco Reactek shocks all around last summer. Most rear bolts are now well lubricated. The rear strut rods had to come off with a torch they were so rust-frozen after 22 years. I sourced new ones from GM along with the adjustment cams. It was a wee bit expensive last summer but I now have confidence in my back end.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
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Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
Hi Paul I just finished installing my new offset trailing arms, looks good! Anyway when I first took this thing apart removing the T/A bolt was least of my worries. With little love from big hammer they both got out just fine. Now I used SS bolts and sockets so the next guy taking this car apart won't have to struggle with rusty bolts! :cheers:
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Ontario
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (groovyjay)
Groovejay,
I appreciate your optimism. Perhaps they just will come out with a little "help." We shall see! In any case the SS shims are ready to go. Yes I will install the SS bolts, etc.
I appreciate your optimism. Perhaps they just will come out with a little "help." We shall see! In any case the SS shims are ready to go. Yes I will install the SS bolts, etc.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
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Likes: 1
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (paul79)
If you can get the shims out, you should be able to cut through the bolts in just a few minutes each. Just dont let the blade bottom out in the back of the pocket or it will bend break. If it bends, just break it off clean or bend it straight and reuse it. I manage the second side with one blade. The first side took four blades. I wouldnt want to try to cut through the shims. I prodded and pried and hammered until I was able to get them out instead of trying to cut through them.
Good luck...
Chris
Good luck...
Chris
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
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From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Re: Trailing Arm Bolts (71roadster)
A hand held air powered die grinder will make short order of the shims. It will also cut through the bolts like a hot knife through butter. I'm a dentist in my real life, and using a die grinder is second nature. Get a long crosscut bit. I'm curious....you said you had your bearings done last year. Did you have the T arms out for that? That pic of the bent-burned T arm is from my car. A previous "ham fisted" mechanic tried the torch method with obviously bad results. Resist the temptation to use the "fire axe". Chuck