Piston and Rod Combos
Race Director
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Keep looking for pistons, not every flat top is going to give you the same compression ratio, you should be able to find one that is closer to 11:1.
Can you not use a Vic Jr with those heads ?
I would like to see you build this motor. It will be a great motor and I would be very interested to see how much HP it makes on a chassis dyno
Can you not use a Vic Jr with those heads ?
I would like to see you build this motor. It will be a great motor and I would be very interested to see how much HP it makes on a chassis dyno
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Team Owner
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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The vic Jr. doesnt have rear cooling ports which are going to be important in keeping the heads cooled and hot spots down, especially with the high compression and short fill.
I want to build it too, it seems like a really good combo and will be a really good time.
Oh I found a third concern, when the redesigned the Pro 1s for the platinum series (all new pro 1s are platinum), they moved the spark plugs around which could cause header headaches.
I want to build it too, it seems like a really good combo and will be a really good time.
Oh I found a third concern, when the redesigned the Pro 1s for the platinum series (all new pro 1s are platinum), they moved the spark plugs around which could cause header headaches.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Oct 4, 2008 at 07:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
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Guru if you want that kind of power don't have all the parts build at least a 383/396.
Long time friend of mine has a modern ZO6 350 with there good breathing heads it only makes 405 at around 6500 at the flywheel
345 to the ground through a manual trans.
427 L/88, lightweight 15 pound nodular iron flywheel, 12.5 pistons,
rectangle port heads that flow more air intake and exhaust then the heads your talking about. .050 264/269 duration cam makes power to 7600rpm, 830/850 DP holley on a dyno no exhaust, pulling no accessories 550 HP.
Anyway how are you planning on getting to 7000 rpm with power
a hydraulic cam ?
Long time friend of mine has a modern ZO6 350 with there good breathing heads it only makes 405 at around 6500 at the flywheel
345 to the ground through a manual trans.
427 L/88, lightweight 15 pound nodular iron flywheel, 12.5 pistons,
rectangle port heads that flow more air intake and exhaust then the heads your talking about. .050 264/269 duration cam makes power to 7600rpm, 830/850 DP holley on a dyno no exhaust, pulling no accessories 550 HP.
Anyway how are you planning on getting to 7000 rpm with power
a hydraulic cam ?
Last edited by Little Mouse; Oct 4, 2008 at 07:35 PM.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Guru if you want that kind of power don't have all the parts build at least a 383/396.
Long time friend of mine has a modern ZO6 350 with there good breathing heads it only makes 405 at around 6500 at the flywheel
345 to the ground through a manual trans.
427 L/88, lightweight 15 pound nodular iron flywheel, 12.5 pistons,
rectangle port heads that flow more air intake and exhaust then the heads your talking about. .050 264/269 duration cam makes power to 7600rpm, 830/850 DP holley on a dyno no exhaust, pulling no accessories 550 HP.
Anyway how are you planning on getting to 7000 rpm with power
a hydraulic cam ?
Long time friend of mine has a modern ZO6 350 with there good breathing heads it only makes 405 at around 6500 at the flywheel
345 to the ground through a manual trans.
427 L/88, lightweight 15 pound nodular iron flywheel, 12.5 pistons,
rectangle port heads that flow more air intake and exhaust then the heads your talking about. .050 264/269 duration cam makes power to 7600rpm, 830/850 DP holley on a dyno no exhaust, pulling no accessories 550 HP.
Anyway how are you planning on getting to 7000 rpm with power
a hydraulic cam ?
The L88 I cant explain, fortunately the only accessory I have is an alternator.
With the right valvetrain components. I also have an AFR hydrarev kit, but if I dont have to use it I wont.
I can also get some hollow stem intake valves and sodium filled exhaust valves.
Race Director
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I used to look at the C5 and C6 forums and see the power they were making.
1) THey only loose about 13% through the drivetrain, big big difference between that and 20+% or so we lose. It's going to make the RWHP numbers much higher.
2) They are always looking for peak power bragging rights, try and drive one on the street. I saw one once it was actually an LS stroker it did make 500RWHP just before it blew up. It idled at 1500RPM and he had to rev it to the moon to get it to move.
3) The forced induction guys will put in a 15psi pulley, do the dyno run to get big numbers and then put a 6psi pulley in for there normal driving.
Alot of
going on and you have to cut through it first 
Like stated above, forget the 350ci and go to at least a 383ci
1) THey only loose about 13% through the drivetrain, big big difference between that and 20+% or so we lose. It's going to make the RWHP numbers much higher.
2) They are always looking for peak power bragging rights, try and drive one on the street. I saw one once it was actually an LS stroker it did make 500RWHP just before it blew up. It idled at 1500RPM and he had to rev it to the moon to get it to move.
3) The forced induction guys will put in a 15psi pulley, do the dyno run to get big numbers and then put a 6psi pulley in for there normal driving.
Alot of
going on and you have to cut through it first Like stated above, forget the 350ci and go to at least a 383ci
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
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383, 10.5 comp. IK200 brodix heads, comp cams solid roller .050
248/254 dur. 576/582 lift, dart single plane 512 hp. average torque
435, average hp 391. This is realistic a 350 would have to be reving pretty high to reach any 525 hp with the cam to make it do it you would not have jack for torque down low.
Guru the ZO6 427 with even better bigger runner airflow heads
titanium valves, 7000 rpm power is rated at 505 hp.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Oct 4, 2008 at 09:26 PM.
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Le Mans Master
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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I am probably going to go forward with this and see how it turns out. If it doesnt make 525hp c'est la vie. I feel I will have wrung every bit of performance that a hydraulic roller 355 can give.
But I am more than willing open to any thought you may have.
But I am more than willing open to any thought you may have.
Le Mans Master
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
There's nothing wrong with the general combo you have - but we do need to make a few adjustments IMHO. Note that this is NOT an LS-series engine; it's just a Vortec-type roller-cam block.
If you're stuck on using the parts you have, then I have some suggestions. But overall I'd say build a stout forged 383 from that block, invest in bigger/better heads and a solid roller.
But I gotta back up for just a second - and don't take this wrong - but what's your budget for this engine, complete and in the frame rails.
If you're stuck on using the parts you have, then I have some suggestions. But overall I'd say build a stout forged 383 from that block, invest in bigger/better heads and a solid roller.
But I gotta back up for just a second - and don't take this wrong - but what's your budget for this engine, complete and in the frame rails.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
AFR Comp Port head 242/248, 600 lift HR will get you there.
May even get by with the street head.
IMO use similar specs and go solid. Youll surpass 530 easily.
Plumb in a bypass/crossover on a TeamG, isnt hard. Not sure even though they are low for a single plane with a drop base filter would it fit?? Ill have to measure mine but almost positive a AirGap is taller. Good dual plane though.
May even get by with the street head.
IMO use similar specs and go solid. Youll surpass 530 easily.
Plumb in a bypass/crossover on a TeamG, isnt hard. Not sure even though they are low for a single plane with a drop base filter would it fit?? Ill have to measure mine but almost positive a AirGap is taller. Good dual plane though.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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There's nothing wrong with the general combo you have - but we do need to make a few adjustments IMHO. Note that this is NOT an LS-series engine; it's just a Vortec-type roller-cam block.
If you're stuck on using the parts you have, then I have some suggestions. But overall I'd say build a stout forged 383 from that block, invest in bigger/better heads and a solid roller.
But I gotta back up for just a second - and don't take this wrong - but what's your budget for this engine, complete and in the frame rails.
If you're stuck on using the parts you have, then I have some suggestions. But overall I'd say build a stout forged 383 from that block, invest in bigger/better heads and a solid roller.
But I gotta back up for just a second - and don't take this wrong - but what's your budget for this engine, complete and in the frame rails.
I attempt to use what I can find deals on, or good quality used stuff.
Jacob's hobby money also pays for vacations, eating out, and stuff around the house. So its pretty thin at the moment.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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AFR Comp Port head 242/248, 600 lift HR will get you there.
May even get by with the street head.
IMO use similar specs and go solid. Youll surpass 530 easily.
Plumb in a bypass/crossover on a TeamG, isnt hard. Not sure even though they are low for a single plane with a drop base filter would it fit?? Ill have to measure mine but almost positive a AirGap is taller. Good dual plane though.
May even get by with the street head.
IMO use similar specs and go solid. Youll surpass 530 easily.
Plumb in a bypass/crossover on a TeamG, isnt hard. Not sure even though they are low for a single plane with a drop base filter would it fit?? Ill have to measure mine but almost positive a AirGap is taller. Good dual plane though.
How would you recommend plumbing up that cross over?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Couple of hundred a month. So about 1 part a month. Not counting miscellanious fittings and the like.
I attempt to use what I can find deals on, or good quality used stuff.
Jacob's hobby money also pays for vacations, eating out, and stuff around the house. So its pretty thin at the moment.
I attempt to use what I can find deals on, or good quality used stuff.
Jacob's hobby money also pays for vacations, eating out, and stuff around the house. So its pretty thin at the moment.
My suggestion is twofold - first, in my experience it's a bad idea to piecemeal buying parts. Two things happen - you end up with expensive mismatches (part of this discussion) and the engine sits for a LONG time on the stand which has it's own problems.
Second, I'd roll your design back to something that's in a reasonable budget - $2500 or so - and get something done vs. waiting for years to shoot for the stars. There's a lot of budget HP to be made if you're careful.
What are you going to use the car for? Street only? Drags?
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Street, drags, autocross (maybe), annoying the neighbors, maybe a HPDE or 2, generic motor sports fun.
So lets examine what I have left
Nice set of scat I beam rods 280 bucks or so and the same for a decent set of hyper pistons that will more than likely also come with rings and wrist pins.
The camshaft is 260 bucks
Intake is 240 bucks, but occasionally show up on ebay cheap.
The carb (this part is important), is pretty much the best cross section of cost and performance. The long duration camshaft is really going to like the annular boosters as far as low end torque, throttle response, and drivability. I have 2 other carbs and they both have stick boosters which are totally inappropriate for what I am trying to accomplish.
I also really buy into dart's design process recently with their wet flow design. For an as cast head, they are awesome. As soon as the missus will let me I will probably order a bare set of heads as I have a nice set of ferrea valves on the shelf that should do the trick. And I can get the correct springs and retainers for my camshaft.
So lets examine what I have left
Nice set of scat I beam rods 280 bucks or so and the same for a decent set of hyper pistons that will more than likely also come with rings and wrist pins.
The camshaft is 260 bucks
Intake is 240 bucks, but occasionally show up on ebay cheap.
The carb (this part is important), is pretty much the best cross section of cost and performance. The long duration camshaft is really going to like the annular boosters as far as low end torque, throttle response, and drivability. I have 2 other carbs and they both have stick boosters which are totally inappropriate for what I am trying to accomplish.
I also really buy into dart's design process recently with their wet flow design. For an as cast head, they are awesome. As soon as the missus will let me I will probably order a bare set of heads as I have a nice set of ferrea valves on the shelf that should do the trick. And I can get the correct springs and retainers for my camshaft.
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Team Owner
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I'd use Dart 215's with 2.08/1.625 valves option They are right around 300 CFM intake. Have them milled to 58 cc
Use the lighter flat top forged pistons.
Forget about H-roller and it's rpm limitations.
I use rear manifold cooling lines.
Use the lighter flat top forged pistons.
Forget about H-roller and it's rpm limitations.
I use rear manifold cooling lines.