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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:32 AM
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Default Push Rods

Being temporarily broke gives me the opprotunity to over analyze things:

So my question is: With a 7000rpm small block what is the place where these 3 requirements meet for a 5/16th push rod:

Lowest possible weight
Lowest possible price
Appropriate strength

My general feeling is that at street spring pressures there isnt really a need for the 200 dollar set of push rods with all the bells and whistles, and parts companies are just finding ways to fleece us of a few more dollars. Is there a reason that stock push rods wont work?

Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Oct 16, 2008 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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What are the spring pressure rates of your springs?

Are you using guide plates?

The hardened rods are important when using guide plates. They are also important if you have high pressure springs, which doesn't always coincide with high lift. Roller springs tend to have higher pressures.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:03 AM
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probably around 125# at 1.8" and 325-350 at 1.2".

Looking at a set of beehive springs and am in the process of comparing.

Thinking about some PAC springs.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:07 AM
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So do you have guide plates installed?
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:07 AM
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Havent bought heads yet, but yes there will be guide plates.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
Havent bought heads yet, but yes there will be guide plates.

Then your decision is easy. If you have guide plates in your build then you must have hardened push rods. The reason is if there is contact between the push rods and the guide plates...the stock soft rods will shave away and drop metal into the oil pan and the rods will eventually fail in a bad way.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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This is a set of Comp HE pushrods that couldn't cut it at 6500 rpms. The next set were 3/8" thickwall chromemoly. I also went with 7/16 studs, and have no fear of twisting 7000 rpms now. This is something you should not skimp on for sure.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Hardened stock size pushrods will be fine. I have a '70 LT-1 under the bench that regularly hit 7500 RPM (even 7800 a couple times) with hardened pushrods and guideplates.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by The Money Pit


This is a set of Comp HE pushrods that couldn't cut it at 6500 rpms. The next set were 3/8" thickwall chromemoly. I also went with 7/16 studs, and have no fear of twisting 7000 rpms now. This is something you should not skimp on for sure.
Are you sure that's not from valve float?
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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I can't say I didn't float a valve, as that cam was a Comp XE-284 (hydraulic) The current cam is an Isky Z-35 flat solid.

The AFR heads have spring rates around 350 lbs open, 135 on the seat, and I noticed blueing on the rocker pivot *****. The machine shop that equalized my spring heights suggested the rate was just a bit too much for stck type pushrods, and also suggested the roller rockers to reduce heat on the rocker fulcrum.

I believe he was right. This 406 rips to 7000 with ease!
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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5/16" will be OK ... just get some good ones with 0.065" thick chromemoly & all one piece w/formed ends & hardened ... should be able to find those under $100/16.

A few things that've been overlooked but then erroneously blamed on pushrod design/material when something goes wrong:
- Ensure NO coil bind + some more clearance.
- Correct PR length & RA geometry.
- Guideplates adjusted to center roller on valvetip.

FYI ... Not beehive ... but some very good drop-in (~1.25" od) springs that're close to your specs & much less$: Elgin or Pioneer p/n RV1943X ... also Howard's Cams p/n 98215

Here're some real endurance race springs "PSI"
http://www.psisprings.com/index.php?...ask=view&id=17
Other good ones are Isky http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html and
K-Motion http://www.kmotion.biz/springsintro.htm

Last edited by jackson; Oct 17, 2008 at 02:20 AM. Reason: moinfo
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