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Not to sound too long-winded, but the answer is....NO! Those bolts are what hold your car up. You'll have to jack the rear of the car, separate the bolts from the spring by using a jack to relieve tension on their ends, then remove them from the trailing arms. Another Corvette's destruction has been spared by its owner wisely consulting the forum....
Not to sound too long-winded, but the answer is....NO! Those bolts are what hold your car up. You'll have to jack the rear of the car, separate the bolts from the spring by using a jack to relieve tension on their ends, then remove them from the trailing arms. Another Corvette's destruction has been spared by its owner wisely consulting the forum....
Whats wrong with putting a floor jack under the end of the spring,jacking up slightly until the tension is off and the bolt is loose, then removing the bolt and putting the new one in?(The only difficult issue is getting the nut to break loose if its been on there forever.)
What DW suggests works.
I found it SOMETIMES helps to use a c-clamp to clamp a 2x4 block of wood just inside the jack pad on the spring. SOMETIMES the jack pad wants to slide along the bottom of the spring towards the center of the car.
Yes, I'm sad to say I can prove this.
Regards,
Alan
PS: Ask me about getting the bolt through the spring when the chassis is bare. Can you say "Boy, I didn't think it was that light".
Regards,
Alan
Whats wrong with putting a floor jack under the end of the spring,jacking up slightly until the tension is off and the bolt is loose, then removing the bolt and putting the new one in?(The only difficult issue is getting the nut to break loose if its been on there forever.)
I've replaced the spring cushions on all of my Vettes like this. If you have gymkhana with the rear stabilizer bar it's a pain cause ya gotta remove the bracket on the top of the trailing arm to get the spring bolt out. Otherwise it's simple. A drive on lift with a jack tray does help, tho.
DW,Alan & KapsSA - Thank you guys for replying and confirming it can be done without putting the car on jack stands. I've read a lot of the threads in the archive and all of them has pictures with the cars on jackstands. After reading birdsmiths response I decided it might be one of those things I should have my mechanic do. I just didn't feel comfortable (being a novice at this) putting a jack on the springs while the car is on stands. After your responses I'm back to getting my hands dirty and the satisifaction of doing it myself - which is one of the reasons i bought the car.
Thanks again for your response,
Ben
If you have had the nut off the spring bolt before you wont have a problem.If the nut is original you will probably have to add heat to it.If you add heat without removing the tire protect the tire with a piece of sheet metal.
If you have had the nut off the spring bolt before you wont have a problem.If the nut is original you will probably have to add heat to it.If you add heat without removing the tire protect the tire with a piece of sheet metal.
Or do what I do......
Drown said bolt off and on a couple days prior to working on it in WD40.
Just be careful with the leaf spring. That thing packs a wallop when you get the bolt off. It doesn't look like it at first, but if you dont have the jack supported with a C clamp on the spring.....one slip and it will send a lot of things flying.
One other tip on installing longer bolts. I would not recommend installing bolts that position the end of the spring below the level of the rim.
I made the mistake of installing some 10" bolts on my '73 many years ago while autocrossing. The spring was an inch from the sidewall of the tire which looked pretty safe to me. During one particularly quick turn, the tire rolled under enough to hit the end of the spring and ripped the entire sidewall out of an almost new Goodyear Gatorback. I switched to 8" bolts and raised the spring to the edge of the rim. The tire may roll under, but the rim won't!