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Rear wheel alignment.

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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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Default Rear wheel alignment.

I was in need of new tires so before I bought them I decided to get my wheels aligned so as not to wear out the new ones. The local Chevy dealer did the alignment and said the rear wheels were not far enough out to mess with. I bought new tires, the same size that was on the car, P225/70R15’s. After the new tires were on I noticed that the toe-in seemed to be a bit excessive. As the photo shows, both wheels are toed in to where they are visually noticeable.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g.../Alignment.jpg

Now I know that the wheels will “camber” in when the car is off the ground, but this amount of toe-in can’t be normal, can it? I sure hope the photo was done right!
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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I'm interested in hearing the answer to this. The rear wheels on my '74 are toed in to the point that it's visually obvious.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Hi A,
I really don't know much about alignment, but what you're seeing there is CAMBER ,or tilt in/out at the top of the tire. There are specs for camber, I'll look them up.
Regards,
Alan

PS: There are 3 parts to an alignment... Toe-in, Caster, and Camber. I don't think Caster enters in to a rear alignment only a front alignment.
PSS: The GM Chassis Service Manual calls for CAMBER -7/8 degree +- 1/2 degree.
TOE-IN 1/16" +- 1/32"

Last edited by Alan 71; Oct 19, 2008 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 06:55 PM
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Take it to an good alignment shop. Anyone that thinks that aint out enough to mess with, just dont want to mess with it. That is camber and not toe. The camber needs to be set and the toe adjusted to specifications. Most likely the rear shims will be rusted and stuck. It is a big pita some times and those clowns dont want to do it. It may be necessary to free all of that stuff up in order to align properly, and it will probably not be cheap.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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there is the option of doing it yourself. There are some great articles in the technical department, they will help you at least check that it is done right. certainly the camber looks excessive to me.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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This link shows the various requirements of an alignment. Very good information with drawings to clarify individual measurements.

http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm

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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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jack the car up, and see if you have any free play of the half shafts inward and outward. as the differential wears, the half shafts move outward and result in excessive camber (which is what you have, not toe).
while it's up in the air, measure the amount of positive camber with the level and then adjust the camber bolts using the "on the ground" measurement as a guide as to how much to change the camber.
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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I,D suggest getting a set of smart strut,s, if you have too turn the cambers, there probably siezed and you,ll have too take them off anyway along with new lower shock mounts. They will be no good either by the time you hammer them out. You can get smart struts at Eklhers they work great.alot easyer too align.
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Yes that's camber. When it comes to toe, you likely find that most alignment shops, and GM dealers, do not have the adjustment shims. So they either can't/won't do the job or just adjust camber and call it a day (this being an incomplete job in my opinion).

Bring a set with you. It's only about $35.00 for the pack. Even then some shops will take one look at rusty trailing arm bolts/nuts and refuse the job. In a sense you can't blame them as freeing things up can take quite some time.

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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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One other thing - if you rear spring is weak, it cause thr tire to kick out too.
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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that is excessive and if left like this it will wear you U-joint even quicker...
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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I have found another guy here that said he would have a go at it. I'll see him in the morning. Hopefully he can do a better job. Thanks all!!
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