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This was the first week-end I really made use of my "new" 74 Corvette Convertible, she drove wonderfully and my wife and I really enjoyed the car.
I noticed on a couple of occasions after the car had been sitting for a few minutes (up to 20 mins) and I went to hit the key to start her up again - all I got was a click and nothing else. The dash lights would come on as if she was going to start but the starter would not engage. I'd then try it again and she'd start...hmmm.
The battery is new and is fully charged (I have a tender). I also have the negative terminal disconnected when the car is parked (quick disconnect in the battery compartment).
One question I have is about the amp guage - it sits at ZERO most all of the time, isn't that supposed to move to the "+" side when driving or when revving the engine?
This weekend I plan on getting uder the car and inspecting the starter wiring along with the negative battery cable to make sure everything is clean and tight with good connections - does this sound like a potential alternator / charging issue?
Thanks Matt - I was just reading your CS alternator upgrade "white papers", well done - should my amp guage be reading "0" all the time? I'm thinking of performing this upgrade in the off season...
Thanks Matt - I was just reading your CS alternator upgrade "white papers", well done - should my amp guage be reading "0" all the time? I'm thinking of performing this upgrade in the off season...
Thanks
Dave
I'm not very familiar with the proper functions of the amp gauge. The ones I have seen were almost always at 0 even when the car was running perfectly with no battery or charging issues.
Someone who knows more about amp gauges will chime in, but I think they are there to indicate a problem to one side or the other, either a bad alternator, bad battery, or over charging alternator or over charged battery. I think if all is working good then it would read 0.
The problem with the car not starting right after you finish driving it sounds like the starter heat soak problem. Either replace the solenoid, or add a heat shield to reduce the heat reaching the solenoid.
Thanks Matt - I was just reading your CS alternator upgrade "white papers", well done - should my amp guage be reading "0" all the time? I'm thinking of performing this upgrade in the off season...
Thanks
Dave
If it really reads zero all of the time, some thing is likely wrong. The ammeter should read in positive territory when the battery is being charged and in negative territory when the system is in a state of net discharge (more load than the alternator can keep up with so the battery is being discharged). So the ammeter is really indicating the direction and magnitude of current flow in the charging system. If the battery is fully charged and the alternator can keep up with the accessories that are running, the gauge should read zero.
You can test this. With the ignition on but the engine not running, try turning on lights, stereo, accessories etc. The gauge should show a discharge. When you next start the car, the gauge should immediately indicate a charge situation although it might swing to zero fairly quickly if the drain on the battery from the engine off test was minimal.
You can do a search with the word "ammeter" in the thread title to find lots of helpful information.
Thanks MrGoFaster - That heat shield in conjunction with a starter/solenoid wrap (and heck, I'll wrap the exhaust while I'm there) - should take care of the starting problem...
Thanks DC3 - That test is easy enough to do, this car is pretty much a stripper - manual everything, no radio, just AC...
Thanks MrGoFaster - That heat shield in conjunction with a starter/solenoid wrap (and heck, I'll wrap the exhaust while I'm there) - should take care of the starting problem...
Check you ground to the frame from the battery. Its on your transmission cross member and probably should be cleaned to bare metal. I suggest its losing a good contact.
I also have the negative terminal disconnected when the car is parked (quick disconnect in the battery compartment).
Some of these quick disconnect devices can restrict the amount of amps going to the starter. It would be same as if you had a bad ground or a dirty connection at the starter or battery terminal. Try removing and see if it helps your starting problems. While all the other suggestions are great, a quick test of this device could save you time and money if its the problem.
While you're cleaning the ground from the negative cable to the frame there's also a jumper from the frame to the engine block on the right hand side at the motor mount. Make sure it's in good shape and the connections are clean as well. You did mention that you were considering wrapping the exhaust.....be advised that while header wrap DOES work it also KILLS headers by causing condensation to collect inside the tubes on shutdown. Once you've gotten all the starter connections nice and clean though I would heed the advice of others and seriously take a look at the starter; specifically the solenoid in your case-when electrical components get hot it takes exponentially more amperage to make them function properly. If you try to cheap out on a replacement you're also just asking for problems so it's a good idea in this case to to get a replacement from a place like NAPA or GM.
gofaster-- did you have to remove the starter from the car to install it? or can you just remove the solenoid?
I had to remove the starter for other reasions but with as much trouble as Ive had with trying to get it to line up & not eat gears, not to mention the hassle & expense, I would highly recommend to anyone that you install the solenoid or heat shield with the starter still on the car.
Put the car up on jack stands & you should have no trouble getting to the small bolts to change either one from under the car. You will want to disconnect the positive side of the battery before you begin. Id also recommend a shop light of some sort you can hang on a header or something to see what you're doing instead of a flash light. A shop light with an energy efficients bulb wont blow when it falls, wont burn the P!$$ out of you if you touch it & is good for the planet. Some safety goggles wouldn't hurt, to save you're eyes from falling dust, rust & goo.
To get the solenoid in, put the spring in place & keep it from falling back out, slide the solenoid into position on the starter compressing the spring, twist the solenoid so that the metal flap goes inside the starter, this will hold it in place with the spring compressed while you get the bolts in.
When hooking up the solenoids wires, the new ones directions will give you 10 examples of how to hook it up on the R terminal. This is useless info! because the little wire must be on the S terminal or it will click or just do nothing.