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Timing chain hitting timing cover!

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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:03 AM
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Default Timing chain hitting timing cover!

I have a bb with a Comp Cams xe 268h. It has about 500 miles since rebuild. Lately, I have started hearing a metallic pinging noise. It would last for about 15 seconds, then go away. It might come back about 5-10 minutes later. At first, from the sound of the noise, I thought the fan might be hitting the shroud. One day I happened to have a timing light on the engine as the sound came back. The timing mark started to jump all over the place. When the noise went away, the timing stayed steady. I took the timing cover off, and sure enough the chain had been hitting the cover.
I called the Comp Cams help line and the tech said he had never heard of a flat tappet cam walking and hitting the cover. He said he had no clue and his only suggestion was the distributor gear could be worn letting the cam move forward. I looked at the gear and it doesn't appear to be badly worn. It does have some wear, but without a new one to compare it with I am just guessing.
Has anyone come across this problem before? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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Make sure the distributor is fully seated. I have heard of a distributor sitting just a bit too high in the bore and causing all kind of problems. May not be the case but it's something to look into. Also, have you had any block work done where maybe the cam plug at the back might have been installed too far forward?
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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The whole engine has been gone through. What I can't understand, is that it ran fine for about 500 miles before this noise started.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ajetmech
The whole engine has been gone through. What I can't understand, is that it ran fine for about 500 miles before this noise started.

Maybe pull the valve covers and run the engine with oil splash clips, and watch the lifters to make sure they are all spinning.

I did that once and saw that several were not spinning as they are meant to. Wasn't causing problems but it might be a symptom of something you have going on.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Maybe pull the valve covers and run the engine with oil splash clips, and watch the lifters to make sure they are all spinning.

I did that once and saw that several were not spinning as they are meant to. Wasn't causing problems but it might be a symptom of something you have going on.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will certainly do that once the engine is back together. I will probably replace the distributor gear just in case that is the problem then go from there.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ajetmech
I called the Comp Cams help line and the tech said he had never heard of a flat tappet cam walking and hitting the cover. He said he had no clue and his only suggestion was the distributor gear could be worn letting the cam move forward. .
Utter nonsense.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Maybe pull the valve covers and run the engine with oil splash clips, and watch the lifters to make sure they are all spinning.

I did that once and saw that several were not spinning as they are meant to. Wasn't causing problems but it might be a symptom of something you have going on.
Although also irrelevant, lifters not spinning=cam lobe taper is gone. Next step is failure.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Makes me wonder if the cam is a roller & not a flat tappet grind. Did you buy the cam & lifters as a kit or separately? Even if the rear plug was installed too far in, the cam should still stay to the back & not move around. How much slop does the chain have in it?
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:50 AM
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The cam sits in the block under a slight angle and therefore the flat tappets pushing down on the (ground tapered) lobes keep the cam from moving forward. This is also what makes the lifters spin. Like was said above, a non spinning lifter is a lifter wearing into the cam.

The chain has nothing to do with keeping the cam in the block. If anything you could install a cam button.

Are you absolutely certain you have a flat tappet cam in there?

Last edited by V-Twin; Oct 28, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ratflinger
Makes me wonder if the cam is a roller & not a flat tappet grind. Did you buy the cam & lifters as a kit or separately? Even if the rear plug was installed too far in, the cam should still stay to the back & not move around. How much slop does the chain have in it?
I will need to go back through my receipts and check the cam part number. The chain has very little slop as it is brand new also.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Twin
The cam sits in the block under a slight angle and therefore the flat tappets pushing down on the (ground tapered) lobes keep the cam from moving forward. This is also what makes the lifters spin. Like was said above, a non spinning lifter is a lifter wearing into the cam.

The chain has nothing to do with keeping the cam in the block. If anything you could install a cam button.

Are you absolutely certain you have a flat tappet cam in there?
I will research the cam part number to make sure it's correct. Can you put a cam button on with the stock timing cover?
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ajetmech
I will research the cam part number to make sure it's correct. Can you put a cam button on with the stock timing cover?

You might have to 'dimple' the cover with a socket if it's too tight. You can also buy a timing cover for a Gen1 engine block using a retrofit roller cam, and they are stamped for the extra room you might need for the button. You buy the buttons with a retainer clip that bolts to the front of the cam on top of the gear.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
You might have to 'dimple' the cover with a socket if it's too tight. You can also buy a timing cover for a Gen1 engine block using a retrofit roller cam, and they are stamped for the extra room you might need for the button. You buy the buttons with a retainer clip that bolts to the front of the cam on top of the gear.
The button simply sits in the center of the cam sprocket it doesn't bolt on at all. Also no special cover is needed although a stiffer cover prevents the buttom/cam from deforming the cover and allowing the cam to still walk. Some water pumps also have a threaded hole for a bolt that you can tighten against the cover to keep it from bending.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Twin
The cam sits in the block under a slight angle and therefore the flat tappets pushing down on the (ground tapered) lobes keep the cam from moving forward. This is also what makes the lifters spin. Like was said above, a non spinning lifter is a lifter wearing into the cam.

The chain has nothing to do with keeping the cam in the block. If anything you could install a cam button.

Are you absolutely certain you have a flat tappet cam in there?

Well almost right. The cam shaft does not or is not suppose to be on any angle, it should be square to the crank. But the lobes them selves do have an angle to them to cause them to spin when in use. This same angle is one way on some lobes and the other way on the rest of the lobes. So when the lifter is loaded to the cam lobe it will push the cam back to the block. If to many lobes are angled in the wrong direction depending on which way they are off it will either over load the front of the block or push the cam forward. But in all the years I have been building engines I have only seen this prolem one time on a slant six engine. Now if the cam has a lot of lobes wearing down and worn this taper off as Durango Boy suggested this could be your problem. Also if the chain spockets are out of alignment this would also cause a prolem like you seem to have, check them closely.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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......Install a Cam Button !
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ajetmech
I will need to go back through my receipts and check the cam part number. The chain has very little slop as it is brand new also.
The number on your receipt is not conclusive. The critical # is what is on the cam. Packing / picking errors can occur. You may not have got what you ordered or were billed for.

COMP owed you more of an attempt to help than what you described.

David
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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Like stated above, put in a cam button, I have always run them even on flat tappet cams, problem solved
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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The number on your receipt is not conclusive. The critical # is what is on the cam. Packing / picking errors can occur. You may not have got what you ordered or were billed for.
Originally Posted by dmayhew
COMP owed you more of an attempt to help than what you described.

David
I agree, their help line certainly was not much help.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Like stated above, put in a cam button, I have always run them even on flat tappet cams, problem solved
I guess that is what I'll do. My only concern is I am only covering up an impending cam failure.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Default cam button install

some cam buttons are held in place with a cam lock plate,it depends
on which one you prefer to use.
One type uses a thrust bearing I had one of these come apart ,I won,t use them again.
The one I recommend is the solid aluminun type.You will have to set the clearance on any of these buttons.
5-10k run out works for me.
I would purchase the longer button so as to adjust the length properly
If you have access to a lathe it makes it very simple to fit it.
Also don,t try to put a dimple in a cast aluminum cover it can and will crack ,done that.
Hope i was helpful
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