so ive got a few questions since my engine is in dire need of a rebuild anyways. im looking for a bit more power (who isnt) and figured id see about building a 383.
can anyone give me a "rough" estimate of what it might cost..
if i can, id also like to find a Rochester carb.. and matching intake obviously. unless there is more power elsewhere..
im also looking to go serpentine, and dual electric on fans
right now ive got a 79 350 thats burnin oil like a sob.. about 1qt every 70miles or so... its not "matching numbers" now, and has had a rebuild in the past.
it has an eps? intake and holley street avenger carb
any thoughts or suggestions are welcome
over the next couple years i plan on researching and probably upgrading steering and braking as well.. but i wanna get rid of my missing oil problem first.
what are the limits on power for a 383?
if i decided to go BB, say 454, what would price difference be? and would i need to change out tranny, or would that be based on the BB build?
as far as costs and such: please include labor if you have any ideas... because unfortunately im gonna have MAYBE 3 months contact with my car in the next 3 years... i had to leave it in san antonio... damn military!!! anyways... Thanks in advance!!

 

Canadian costs are a lot different than in the USA. I am getting a 325 HP 350 crate motor from my engine builder for $2500.00 running on the dyno. For a 383 i need to add another $1050.00 for the rotating assembly.I could add another $2500.00 for a set of AFR aluminum heads as we,, but then i would be into the 425HP range with that 383.

So i am staying with the all cast 325 Hp crate motor. Less heating problems, more reliable, and 25MPG as well.

I build a 454 for my last camaro i had, i had $16,000.00 into that motor. It made 708 HP motor only, and 1006 Hp on Nitrous. So HP costs money and the sky is the limit. My engine builder told me to decide what my goal was for this car and whst its primary purpose was? I want a daily driver. so thats the cheapest way to go for me. 325 Hp is plenty of power for my vette.

 

It's kind of a how-high-is-up question . In a nutshell, the cost of a 383 is close to a wash with a 355 overhaul except the cost of clearancing the block which is around $250 or so in the US (and something you CAN do yourself) after you factor in req'd machine work. This assumes an aftermarket cast crank/stroker clearanced rods/hypereutectic pistons. Heads are ultimately the determining factor for power and budget. My bare-bones budget for a 355 is around $2700 US, for <1HP/CID 383 around $3000 and for > 1HP/CID more details are req'd

You really don't want a factory low-rise intake for a 383. A Q-Jet is fine (with tuning)...but the EPS and Street Avenger you have is really a good setup in my experience.

BBCs are big-dollar engines even as budget builds; figure $5K+ cost of entry. But they're a hoot - huge increase in power over an SBC.

These discussions are best begun with budget and usage.

 

for budget.. we'll say 5-7k for now....
as far as power, im looking for 350+ RWHP
use: spit rustangs out my tailpipe morning noon and night

thats good to know about the eps and holley. that'll save a couple bucks.

i hadnt really considered stickin to a 355 before, just cause im hard headed like that, but for the budget above, what hp and torque could i be looking at for both (355 vs 383)?


This really sucks that i cant do it myself... i rebuild a 351 a couple years back for no more than 2k... not really hp maxed or nothin... but had a nice kick to it

 

Well look at The Edelbrock top end packages.they have matched cam intake carb set ups And the HP ratings. They have done the homework for you.

 

The tough decision is to do another rebuild on your existing engine - especially if you're replacing the entire rotating ***'y anyway to do a 383. For the 5K budget I'd consider building a 383 based on a late(er) model roller-cam block and using some good S/R-type heads to reach the 400+FWHP range. Stepping up a level on heads and cam (spending your $7K budget) would make an engine that's a little less streetable but making maybe 450+ FWHP. These numbers sound a little nuts...but that's the roller cam talking That's as far as we go on that budget...and we're right at the top of what's possible in a factory block and an aftermarket cast stroker crank.

That's my general perspective - there are a lot of approaches and a lot of smart folks here, so I'm sure they'll chime in

 

why not go for a 396 sbc. it isnt that much more than a 383. there are forged rotating assm. out there for around $1200. i have right at your upper range on your budget in mine. i went with afr heads and a custom crower retro roller cam. team g intake and a demon carb. d/d gave me 550 fwhp and my target for the build was 500 fwhp so when i dyno it in the comming months i should know a little more. it will not be an everyday driver though. as hp goes up drivability goes down. i went forged because i plan on using spray sometimes. i am not sure if you can get a cast 3.875 crank and piston combo though.

 

IMHO (and just IMHO ) the 396 build adds a good deal of complexity and cost for only another 13 CID. If I was going that far, I'd consider an aftermarket block and a SERIOUS stroker...or a BBC...and as noted that's going to be right at the top of your budget.

It is cool to have that magic Chevy 396 number, though

 

All this talk about big power yet you don't want to update the steering, suspension and brakes? Personally, I think you have it backwards. I'd worry about that 29 year-old suspension/steering/braking before I would dare drop a block that is going to put out 400+HP at the flywheel, else you're going to find yourself in a ditch.

 

i just (and i mean literally 2 months ago) had the entire ps rebuilt.. so im not TOOO worried there. as far as braking, ive got 2 outta 4 new calipers, and brakes in front, need to be done in the rear. im lookin at replacing the MC with hydroboost.... but ima wait and see on that one.. as for suspension, the car felt tight enough down the road with what it has now, though im sure a couple bushing here and there could use replacing. the reason im talkin about this now is to find out what my options are. i started looking at crates last night, and cost wise, seems like you get more for your money with a 383. now, if i had things my way (money wise that is) a 572 would be going in right now. unfortunately, im now that well endowed...... like i said though, ive got 3 years for all of this. i figured if i know roughly the HP im throwing in, then i can start making better decisions on what the BEST braking, steering, and suspension upgrades would be for me. one thing that i was curious on crates is if they could use stuff u already have.. like the before mentioned intake and carb. but i assume id have to ask each individual builder that... and that would probably be very limited. i like to forward plan... by A LOT.
my next question(s) would be what the best parts for the budget and expected power are. and in peoples experiences, what has worked better for you, crate or having a shop "custom build" for you?

 

Here is a good start. Have it custom built. Then you know what you got.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...QQcmdZViewItem

 

A crate will virtually always be the cheapest, fastest and lowest-risk approach.

Having a shop design and build one for you is great - if you find the right shop. The issue with the shop typically won't be the quality of the work - it will be around the design of a street engine (for race shops) or a high-performance engine (for "volume rebuild shops"). Going in with a good general design can really help here - and there are a lot of smart folks that can help with that.

IMHO (and just IMHO) buying parts and taking them to a shop is like taking groceries to a cafe - they might cook it, but it's your fault if it doesn't taste good

 

that last statement is a very good point... and im sure it would miinimize wait time (though once again, thats not really a problem here :P )
besides, it wouldnt kill me to have spare parts around

 

I just built mine for 6K see parst below everything was new except the carb. Did it for 6K. You need to decide if you are going to the track or just a good street pounder!!