im going to put my engine back in and i just needed some advice on adjusting my valves. I have done it before but when i checked them some were lose. it's a 350 with a cam roller rockers

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...justing+valves

There are many more threads covering this subject. Use the search function. I just put in "adjusting valves" and got a ton of threads.

 

You can e-mail me for a complete, correct procedure for setting up either hydraulic or solids:
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars

 

i like the way where you cut the tops off of some old valve covers so there is no oil spills and adjust them with the car running after the oil heats up.

 

i would not recommend adjusting them with the engine running. there is really no need to make such a mess. i have set numerous sets cold, both in the car and on the stand before installation with absolutely no problems. there are a number of ways to get this done correctly, and not all of them are the same.

i would check out the link SH-60B posted, and get a hold of Lars also. im sure he will have a good reliable answer for you.

basically, you want to rotate the engine until the lifter is on the heel of the lobe on the cam. (toe is the highest point "open", heel is the lowest "closed"). then loosen or tighten the rocker until the pushrod has "zero lash". zero lash is the point at were there is no up and down movement at the pushrod, but no load on the lifter. be sure and remove your socket each time as to not give you a false reading. then, tighten the rocker nut 1/2 to 3/4 turn. i have heard numerous thoughts as to how much of a turn to make, you might research to see what you feel comfortable with. 1/2 has always treated me nicely.

on a hydraulic lifter there is a bit of room for error, due to the hydraulic action. where the pushrod fits into the lifter is a cup that moves up and down. a sort of hydraulic cushion. you are wanting to compress this cup something like .020 to .030 or so. about 1/2 of the total travel.

like i said, i have heard lots of ways that different people prefer, and there is more than one way that works. but, setting them while the engine is running is not the way to go.

and if your cam is non hydraulic, then check your cams manufacture as to the correct lash, and follow the same procedure. and without a good set of locks of some type, you will have to do this on a regular basis.

but, on a hydraulic cam you should just have to do it once, and you are done. if you have one, or more, that will not stay adjusted there is a problem.

hope this helps.

 

cool i think i will talk to lars and i also found a video on youtube

 

Here is a video.

Lars also has great instructions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI

Below is some instructions from 427hotrod this is the way I have done them for years.

First you have to roll the motor around to set each valve right? The cam has to be on the base circle. Easiest way for me is to set them as follows:

1) When the exhaust on a cylinder is just starting to OPEN...set the intake valve on that cylinder.
2) When the intake is almost CLOSED..set the exhaust on that cylinder.


So back off all the valves until they are loose and then start bumping motor over watching the valves as above.

Once you get it on correct position to set each valve...you want to reach down and pinch the pushrod between your fingertips right below the rocker arm. Lift it up and down with the nut backed off. You want to slowly tighten the adjuster nut just until that up and down slop just barely disappears. You want to just BARELY take all the slack out of the assy. Don't overtighten...you just barely want that up and down wiggle to be gone. It only takes finger tip action...you will likely still be able to spin the pushrod when you have just barely got it to *O* lash.THAT is *O* lash.....the lifter plunger is up and you have no play in the pushrod/rockerarm/valve. THEN you tighten the 1/4-1/2 turn to put the lifter plunger down in the lifter slightly.

Repeat by bumping the motor around for each valve....it will run then just fine.


Good luck! Instructions by 427 HOTROD

 

..


rather than use the starter or balancer to move the engine, a breaker bar and socket {I forgot} either 7/8 or 15/16 socket on the alternator pulley nut also works to turn the engine over....


.

 

thanks you guys i really appreciate it

 

its really funny how there is always conflicting info out there.
on other forums i have read the exact opposite where the engine running method was considered the only way to dial it in. as far as mess goes, if you do it right with a chopped up valve cover there is no mess.

but look here where someone says that GM even recommends the engine running method.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...djustment.html

it gets quite confusing some times. i personally like doing it with the engine running because you get immediate feedback as to what the engine is doing.

 

I did mine with eng. running, I used an old cover with the top cut off. Very little mess.