I have little automotive knowledge and need to adjust my vavles as they clatter when the cars warmed up. It's a custom made 454 and i dont really know much about it. Not even sure the difference between hydraulic and solid roller, and which one i have. Is there a really easy step by step tutorial out there anywhere? Also, looking at my valves all 16 of them say Crane 13-170 -10 except for only one that says 13-170 8. Does it belong in there??

 

Take a cover off and let the engine idle. Loosen one valve untill it clatters and then tighten it down 1/4 -1/2 turn. Do all valves one at a time. Buy some clips to stop oil splater and put down cardboard on the driveway.

 

he said he did,nt know if he had solids or hydralics,if its solids thats not going to make it run to good I don,t think maybe

 

Many threads on this. Solid lifters will clatter all the time. I adjust mine (hyd) with an old cover that has top cut off. Warm eng up then loosen nut until they clatter then tighten until clatter stops then 1/2 turn more.

 

Easiest way I know to prove solid or hydraulic lifters.

remove one rocker cover, start the engine. Take a hammer, use the handle and push on the pushrod side of the rocker. It'll bounce around, but push- HARD. If the lifters are hydraulic, it'll cause that lifter to collapse and it'll rattle- big time. When you take the pressure off it'll pump back up and not hurt anything, if it makes no change, it's a solid lifter.

 

Not to rag on anyone but this is a prime example of why you have to be very careful on taking any advice you read on this or any other forum. The OP stated that HE DID NO KNOW IF HE HAD HYDRAULIC OR SOLID Following the advice given above would result in all valves hanging open. I would advise the OP to find a local mechanic you trust to analyze what setup you have and then ask him to let you watch as he adjusts the valves if you want to learn the procedure.

That having been said, I think we all (AND I CERTAINLY INCLUDE MYSELF) should refrain from giving advise if we do not fully understand the implications. None of us are experts on everything. Give the wrong advise and someone could damage their car or injure themselves. Okay, I will shut up now...

 

Please allow me to step in and add to the confusion by stating that there's absolutely no reason to go through all the hassle of finding an extra valve cover and cutting a big hole in the top of it or risk shooting oil all over you, your fenders, and your garage floor by adjusting your valves with the engine running. If you've got a Crane valvetrain in your engine your cam likely has greater than stock lift so you'll want to adjust each valve individually, which can be done in 90 degree increments of crank rotation by starting at #1 TDC, adjusting two valves, then rotating the crank 90 degrees and adjusting two more, and so on. It goes as follows: 1)Get the cam lobe of the particular valve that you want to adjust onto its base circle by manually turning the engine over (this is much easier to do 16 times by removing all the spark plugs first)
2)For hydraulic lifters, adjust each valve as follows: Loosen the adjusting nut on the center of the rocker arm a few turns, gently rotate the pushrod between thumb and forefinger, and slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until you feel the pushrod begin to tighten or 'drag'- that is the point of zero lash. Continue tightening an additional 1/2 turn. Repeat 16 times, once for for each valve.
3)For mechanical ('solid') lifters, get the engine warm first, then adjust each valve using a feeler gage between the tip of each valve and the rocker arm by loosening the rocker, inserting the correct thickness (i.e., if the specified valve lash for your cam is .022" then use a .022" gage- unfortunately since you're not sure exactly WHAT or WHOSE cam you've got in there it'll be difficult to determine exactly how much lash to use but most mechanical cams run between .020"-.025" lash) feeler gage between said valve tip and rocker arm. Slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until the gage can no longer be slid freely between the gap. If you want to make sure, try inserting another feeler gage of .001" greater thickness there- if it goes very easily, you're still too loose. Again, repeat 16 times.
If you do this procedure, you've done it CORRECTLY, your motor will have PROPERLY adjusted valves, it will RUN RIGHT, and you won't be cleaning a gooey mess up off of you, your motor, your fenders, or your floor. Hope this helps....

 

I have been adjusting hydraulic lifters while the engine running since 1970 on SB Chevy engines and have never a had an issue with any of them. I've tried the solid lifter type method on these engines and then gone back and tested them by the engine running method. They always ran better in my opinion after the running engine method. I use the clips now to stop the oil leaks but did it for years and just let it leak. I feel the running method accounts for any variations in valve train parts.
Now solid lifters can only be done by the other methods.

 

Sounds like TimAt has a good way to determine if you have solid or hydraulic lifters once you figure that out here's a good link for the rest of the adjustments http://www.centuryperformance.com/ad...h-spg-149.html Hope this helps, PG.

 

Good information
I missed the I don't know HYDRAULIC OR SOLID.
How many old Corvettes have soild lifters today? One or five out of a thousand? I agree if you don't know find a helper who knows or pay the piper.

 

Just pull the valve cover off and lean down hard on the pushrod side of the rocker arms. The hydraulic lifters will "give" a bit on the lifter that are down on the base circle. You will feel it.

Solid lifter engines will not give at all and the adjustment should be a loose clearance on the lifters that are down on the base circle (unless you are too late and Bubba was already there).

I doubt they will be solid lifters. Not very common these days.

-Mark.

 

Thanks guys for all the help! its helpful people like you that keep these forums useful and greatly appreciated. I think i got the process down now, just wondering if that one valve that says 1-1.70 8 thats different from the others is not supposed to be in there? All 15 others say 1-1.70 -10. Thanks again

 

This is one source of information that will work for everyone. Hydraulic or solid lifters, stock cam or radical cam-doesn't matter. Read it and follow the instructions and you can't damage anything nor mess up.

 

Do not attempt to adjust your valves until you know if you have solid lifters or hydraulic lifters.You should ,if you can talk to the previous owner of your car or the engine builder. I agree with Red 71 on this one.Adjusting valves once you get the feel is no big deal but you have to know what you have hydraulics are zero lash and solids are gap specific per cam specs.

 

You Guys our out of control Yes we all have our ways of adjusting valves but read his post carefully!!! If he had solid lifters it would tap when the engine is cold then stop or quiet down when hot (heat expanion duh). He states the opposite... There fore hydraulic Follow instuctions above.

 

My 63-64 Corvette service manuals as well as my Corvette70-71 service manuals specify 1 turn preload on hydraulic lifters. Don't have the 64 now, but my on my 68 L79 and 70 350/300, and now the ZZ engine I use 1 turn for preload but at 1/4 turns to allow the hydraulic lifter to adjust for the preload.

 

This is the same way I was taught years ago (for hyd) except 1/4 turn when the clatter stops instead of 1/2 as you do.

 

if you have any type of performance cam and high vol oil pump. I'd rather have a valve a little lose than too tight

 

This is a good video to show the basic procedure....HTH



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI

 

For the love of God, not another hydraulic lifter how-to....there is absolutely NO reason to adjust them with the motor running!
How do you think GM did it on millions and millions of engines???
Here is the best and only way you need to properly preload chevy lifters:

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.