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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Default Hot feet !!!

What is the best product to put under the carpet I have a 73 4speed with a 350 no headers. Thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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First a layer of Dynamat Extreme for sound deadening, and they either carpet jute or a layer of Reflectix and then the carpet.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:14 PM
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Where can I purchase these products ? Thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ABOB5
Where can I purchase these products ? Thanks
Dynamat = Online or most stereo shops carry it

reflectix = Lowes
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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You can get the Reflectix at Home Depot, or Lowes. Then do a SEARCH on the forum and find some of the threads where people have replaced the carpet, or put down the reflectix. There are some good photos, and notes on what they did, and how it was done.

kdf
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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How thick is reflectix and Dynamat ?
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ABOB5
How thick is reflectix and Dynamat ?

Together maybe 3/8" but that's about how thick carpet jute is, so if you're using Reflectix you'll be about normal. With jute over Dynamat, which is thin, you'll be a bit thicker than normal but I doubt you'd ever even notice.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Don't forget to do the work outside the cabin as well.
Check for the heat shields on the lower firewall, there is an insulation blanket that was OE on the 68 that I added to my 72 (it helps a lot)
There is a foam seal that goes over the bell housing or front of auto trans. to keep hot air from traveling down the tunnel.
Last but not least is the trans. tunnel insulating blanket itself.
Make sure all of these items are there and correct, any heat you can keep from the floor pan makes the job of insulating the interior side that much more effective.
lol
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
First a layer of Dynamat Extreme for sound deadening, and they either carpet jute or a layer of Reflectix and then the carpet.
I used just DynaMat Xtreme. Works like a champ. It's not just sound, it's heat reflective too. That's just what I used.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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also check for exhaust leaks around the manifolds.
my feet would burn badly, i installed new exhaust dougnuts between the manifolds and pipes and now there is no heat at all.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlockTank
I used just DynaMat Xtreme. Works like a champ. It's not just sound, it's heat reflective too. That's just what I used.

Kind of. The foil serves two purposes. It keeps one side from being sticky and a surface that other things can be adhered to, and yes, as a minor heat barrier. However, it's not very effective. The Dynamat itself dissipates vibrations as heat energy, and the foil simply keeps that heat from radiating inward and keeps it on the outside. Against exhaust and engine heat it won't do nearly as well as a dedicated heat barrier.
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Kind of. The foil serves two purposes. It keeps one side from being sticky and a surface that other things can be adhered to, and yes, as a minor heat barrier. However, it's not very effective.
In my experience, the Reflectix alone brought the inside temps on my car down DRAMATICALLY! Like 20 degrees or more. I had rebuilt the AC on mine already long before doing the interior. Yet after a long drive 30 minutes or so, the AC could not keep up with the built-up heat in the cabin.

I yanked the OEM carpet out, treated the floor with Rustoleum (76 has steel) and POR15. Then I glued down a layer of Reflectix on top of those two layers ... and then new carpet. While the dash was part, I completely resealed the ducts in the AC system. Now it blows a lot more air, and I actually have to turn it DOWN! because it gets cold in there.

First layer (POR 15


Rustoleum Layer:


Next comes the Reflectix:



Complete, with new leather on the seats:


Right side with view of Stereo AMP:
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by spookytooth
Don't forget to do the work outside the cabin as well.
Check for the heat shields on the lower firewall, there is an insulation blanket that was OE on the 68 that I added to my 72 (it helps a lot)
There is a foam seal that goes over the bell housing or front of auto trans. to keep hot air from traveling down the tunnel.
Last but not least is the trans. tunnel insulating blanket itself.

lol
Right. The insulation blanket on the underneath of my 68 floorpan, is not present on my 70. I plan to add it. It seems like a needed item, I don't know why GM dropped it for 70 (I think the 69's had it also.) To add it, you'll have to buy the steel sheet protectors that are still available. Looks like they'll mount up to the 70 with no real problem.

Also, what about wrapping fiberglass tape around the exhaust pipes where they pass along the transmission. These things probably get to about 1000 degrees F, and except for the fiberglass floor panel and carpet on the stock cars, they're only a few inches from your feet!
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by spookytooth
Don't forget to do the work outside the cabin as well.
Check for the heat shields on the lower firewall, there is an insulation blanket that was OE on the 68 that I added to my 72 (it helps a lot)
There is a foam seal that goes over the bell housing or front of auto trans. to keep hot air from traveling down the tunnel.
Last but not least is the trans. tunnel insulating blanket itself.
Make sure all of these items are there and correct, any heat you can keep from the floor pan makes the job of insulating the interior side that much more effective.
lol
Do ALL of these "fixes".

Also see this very detailed and informational thread from May 2007. Radiant heat is a big issue in these cars.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...p-on-cold.html
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