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I have my 69 427 at mechs in these days...some checks
my Holley electric fuel pump makes a loud cyclic noise : roar-roar-roar.
and the needle of the gas pressure meter is always bouncing fast between 5 and 7 .
Is it usual ? or should the pressure be stable and needle too?
2 days ago the needle was stable at about 7 but the noise always there anyway.
it seems anyway that the thing doesn't affect the car behaviour : the engine pushes hard and with no stumbles in acceleration
Those pumps are known for being VERY noisy, but effective. I ran one in my '64 GTO and was successful in reducing the racket.
First, I mounted it on a plate that was isolated from the body/frame by 4 rubber grommets, the kind witha small stud sticking out each side. They're commonly used in electronics for vibration supression. Then I made a lightweight styrene foam-lined cover to insulate it futher. That reduced the noise to the point that it no longer bothered me.
You can also go to your local Harley Davidson Dealer and ask for oil tank isolators for a 74 or older FLH. Ask for the ones that are connected inside. They are stronger.
I am finally in the process of replacing my holley electric with a mechanical one. The noise finally got to me. now I will be able to hear the sweet sound of the exhaust without any interferance.
You can try a Stewart-Warner diaphragm pump. It is an "On Demand" type that requires no re-circulation line and only makes a faint ticking sound when running. I had a Holly pump previously and the noise was not tolerable.
the noise is not too bad at the end. So is it usual that cyclic roar-roar?
But I see the needle on the fuel pressure meter bouncing back and forth between 5 and 7. Shouldn't it be stable at a fixed value instead?
the noise is not too bad at the end. So is it usual that cyclic roar-roar?
But I see the needle on the fuel pressure meter bouncing back and forth between 5 and 7. Shouldn't it be stable at a fixed value instead?
I've had two fuel gauges under my hood and both had bouncing needles. I replaced the first with a higher quality liquid filled gauge to stop the bounce but the second gauge was worse. Car was running fine at that point so I took the gauge off. Happy now.
I've had two fuel gauges under my hood and both had bouncing needles. I replaced the first with a higher quality liquid filled gauge to stop the bounce but the second gauge was worse. Car was running fine at that point so I took the gauge off. Happy now.
DC
If you have a mechanical pump, you'll have that due to the push rod going up and down. If it's an electrical pump, I've never seen that happen before. Mine is steady at whatever I set it at! BBTank
1) Another thing that can help reduce the noise, is make sure the inlet/outlet lines are soft. Don't connect steel/aluminum lines directly to the pump.
2) The pulsing might be an indication that it needs rebuilt (not sure). I know they sell rebuild kits for the holley pumps. They are a real basic type of pump that just use a little paddle wheel. Looks like all you have to do is remove the bottom plate and insert new paddles. I have one on my Cutlass that has a bit of noise, but I don't mind it on that car because its just used for drag racing now days (plus the exhaust is a bit load).
If you have a mechanical pump, you'll have that due to the push rod going up and down. If it's an electrical pump, I've never seen that happen before. Mine is steady at whatever I set it at! BBTank
Agreed. But my problem was that the needle was swinging so much I couldn't get a read. The needle on the 2nd gauge bounced so wildly it was a blur. Cheap gauges = no bueno por caca.
Agreed. But my problem was that the needle was swinging so much I couldn't get a read. The needle on the 2nd gauge bounced so wildly it was a blur. Cheap gauges = no bueno por caca.
Aeromotive sells an electric fuel pump controller for their version of the Holley pump, it's their Street and Strip pump. It'l also work with the Holley pump also.
It pump controller senses engine speed and reduces voltage to the pump at engine idle and at cruise rpm. It applies full 12 volt power to the pump when the engine speed goes beyond 3000 rpm. Reduced power cuts down on pump wear and tear and noise. The controller is a little pricey - $210 or so. To sense engine speed, it can use the HEI tach drive signal, and I think it works for the old point distributors also. Even though I have one, I can still hear my Street and Strip pump when I turn on the engine. Can't hear the pump at all when the engine is above idle...factory sidepipes!