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there's not enough length in the pipes coming out of master clylinder, to allow me to get the master any closer to hydraboost unit, I thought maybe I could unbolt the proportion valve to give me more lenght, did anyone else have this problem when fitting the hydraboost system??
Yep, I had the same problem.
I got fed up and unbolted the proportioning valve from the frame and used the below handy tool to "modify" the lines so it would fit.
This was a major PIA so I plan on flaring and bending my own lines to clean up that area this winter.
I don't have any good pics with me of how i got it arranged to function but I'll be reorganizing the lines this winter.
Some manual brake car installations might require new lines, power brake car lines seem to work if you don't want to bend new ones from stock at the parts store.
I have yet to see a problem with the lines reaching in a power brake car though.
Some manual brake car installations might require new lines, power brake car lines seem to work if you don't want to bend new ones from stock at the parts store.
I have yet to see a problem with the lines reaching in a power brake car though.
That's odd. I would have thought the opposite to be true as the manual brake lines are longer.
That's odd. I would have thought the opposite to be true as the manual brake lines are longer.
I have done a few power brake car installs and the lines always stretch and work. The only case where I saw someone need new lines was on a manual brake install.
Is the P-valve in a different location on manual brake cars?
Some manual brake car installations might require new lines, power brake car lines seem to work if you don't want to bend new ones from stock at the parts store.
I have yet to see a problem with the lines reaching in a power brake car though.
Ive got a power brake car, 78 ,model!! lol, always a first! and it had to be me!, living hundreds of miles away in the UK!
I have done a few power brake car installs and the lines always stretch and work. The only case where I saw someone need new lines was on a manual brake install.
Is the P-valve in a different location on manual brake cars?
Originally Posted by corvettedave383
Ive got a power brake car, 78 ,model!! lol, always a first! and it had to be me!, living hundreds of miles away in the UK!
dave
The manual brake cars have the lines terminate closer to the firewall b/c there is no power brake booster pushing the Master Cylinder further away from the firewall. So everything is closer to the firewall on a manual brake car.
I bought new Stainless Steel brake lines for a power brake car b/c the hydroboost was gonig to push the master clylinder far away from the firewall, further than a power brake booster. I still had issues with the power brake lines. Had to massage them to fit, i unbolted the proportioning valve so it connected to the master cylinder just like in stock manual brake form.
Hydro install is not plug and play, it will require you to "massage" the brake lines a bit for proper fit but you are much better off with power brake lines then manual brake lines. If you're going far enough to install hydro you might as well spend the tiny extra coin on new SS power brake lines and feel better that your added braking pressure won't rupture an old stock line. I picked up new SS lines at Carlisle a few years ago for very cheap, under $50 b/c the distributor didn't want to have to pack it all back up in his truck.
Ive got a power brake car, 78 ,model!! lol, always a first! and it had to be me!, living hundreds of miles away in the UK!
dave
If I can help with shipping anything you need to you I will. Just let me know what you want and where to get it and I'll make sure it's shipped to you.
If I can help with shipping anything you need to you I will. Just let me know what you want and where to get it and I'll make sure it's shipped to you.
thanks alot mate, I keep that in mind, I will try disconecting the p valve and push the brake lines about abit, see how goes
I also noticed, that the clevis u joint, has to be screwed onto the booster shaft, a min of 8 threads, which means it still close to the end of shaft, but to line holes in clevis and brake pedal linkage, you have to push brake down a fraction to get the holes to meet, did everyone else have to do that?
Yeah it's common for the pedal height to lower a little bit when you hook it up.
However, consider that with the Hydrobooster your overall pedal travel will go down considerably, usually making it much more comfortable to brake when the pedal is lower.
Yeah it's common for the pedal height to lower a little bit when you hook it up.
However, consider that with the Hydrobooster your overall pedal travel will go down considerably, usually making it much more comfortable to brake when the pedal is lower.
Its a cramped area to begin with, having the pedal a tad lower helps.
Years before converting to HB, I moved the firewall below the steering column and bent the pedals for more comfy driving, it got my knees off the steering wheel...
since then I have noticed I would really love to have more lowering of the brake pedal.....
the HB was done maybe 4? years ago..and so I wonder about modding the pedal assy even more since the stroke is not so great anymore.....I need play with this fairly soon....
Update - thats it sorted now, took bolts off of p - valve, pushed the p-valve up a little, problem solved!
I was wondering weather the master clylinder new postition looks a little higher than stock, does it affect bonnet closing right?, (my bonnet is off just now)
Is it recomended to use steering fluid in hydraboost system?(ive got atf trans in power steering pump at present), if yes, then which type of steering fluid?
any other tips for the next stage, connecting up new lines. ect?
Hysterically speaking I have had cars develop steering system leaks after using ATF, it's a off hand observation with nothing A=B that I can point to.....I have heard about ATF friction additives being bad news for steering system seals.....
but then I think...well, there are more seals in a auto tranny then the oceans of the world...
So I have to assume some seals are Navy and then other are not....
Update - thats it sorted now, took bolts off of p - valve, pushed the p-valve up a little, problem solved!
I was wondering weather the master clylinder new postition looks a little higher than stock, does it affect bonnet closing right?, (my bonnet is off just now)
Is it recomended to use steering fluid in hydraboost system?(ive got atf trans in power steering pump at present), if yes, then which type of steering fluid?
any other tips for the next stage, connecting up new lines. ect?
cheers
dave
Your hood should close just fine.
As far as the ATF I have no idea...I'll have to do some digging.
...Is it recomended to use steering fluid in hydraboost system?(ive got atf trans in power steering pump at present), if yes, then which type of steering fluid?
From Hydratech's website:
Originally Posted by www.hydratechbraking.com
Q: What type of fluid should I use with my power steering system. I have been told the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) can be used?
A: OEM fluids from the dealer are the absolute best. You can use any type of commercially available power steering fluid that meets the specifications of your vehicle. You should not use any type of ATF as it may foam excessively when it gets warm. Please also be very careful not to accidentally use the wrong fluid in either the brake or the power steering systems as substantial systems damages will occur!
Originally Posted by corvettedave383
any other tips for the next stage, connecting up new lines. ect?
Here's a schematic I put together:
Leave out the Jeep box info if you're only running the Hydro...
Thanks. I originally put it together so I could make more sense of the system and to make sure I got all the correct fittings. If it helps others then that's a bonus
Thanks. I originally put it together so I could make more sense of the system and to make sure I got all the correct fittings. If it helps others then that's a bonus
Thanks Saudivette! I'm assembling a HB system now with big help from Durango_Boy and your schematic makes clear any ambiguities I may have had.