Before all the nice thick cylinder wall much stronger blocks showed up.

How well did the block filler work it looks like it would keep the cylinder more solid, down low theres not as much combustion heat to remove. I guess what I'm wondering is how well did it work as far as adhering to the block.

 

I was planning on a short fill myself.

 

Today I'm in crazy land thinking of using one of my blocks build another 331 just for the fun of seeing what it could do with all this good modern head stuff and eye opening rpms.

Probably by the end of the day or few days I will go back to some form of sane, probably about the time I call someone find out what the costs are just to check out and machine work costs will bring me back to realality.

 

I actually raced a 337 ci half filled block years ago. It ran fine and never had heating issues because you are not really filling it past the first or second ring on a 3.250 stroker.

It is my opinion that those days of short stroke and worrying about piston feet per minute are gone. I spin my 3.750 and 4.00 inch strokers to 7500 rpm. I'd spin the 383 to 8000 if I had a shaft rocker setup. My 434 could probably do it without a problem, but I would rather not take a chance on loosing it.

 

Been in the egg nog, have we?

 

No but I'm looking forward to it, I really rarely drink anything but
the 31rst if you see me on here I'm talking 3.00 stroke cranks you will know what happened.

 

Not worrying about feet per minute or anything, with modern super dooper blocks, thick cylinders, strong rods, better oiling, you can do about anything you want.

If I were going to use a fill beleive I would just come up to the bottom of the freeze plugs.

I'm just thinking of a small engine for the challange just for fun and a
nice high rpm scream it would have to be in a light inexpensive car

 

Some GM low port 18 degree heads would be sweet. They have a volume of 200cc so it shouldnt be "too big" for a 331 that is screaming.

Brodix also has some small port modified angle stuff.

Wish I had known about that a couple of years ago.

 

Brodix has some cheap IK series stuff, but you get into something more serious in airflow there heads get real expensive fast.

Brodix is coming out with a 210 oval shaped runner 23 degree head that will flow 335 probably the exhaust flow won't be anything like what
a raised runner head will do. this head will have a slight raise in the intake runner, but this is full cnc'd head you can bet it will be pricey. If you were running in crazy land rpm all the time at a drag strip big runners is what you can use.

 

I didnt say anything about cheap. But a 18 degree 327 would be cool to see.

 

I don't know anything about the head 18 degree probably need a big bore block to start out with, head probably has big vavles changed
vavle centers wider chamber ment to go on a big bore block.

 

You might be right about that.

Here is one of the GM heads.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=671.html

Here is a good discussion:
http://www.s-series.org/htm/tech/GMP...ts/054-056.pdf

Here is the head I would get if I were to go 18 degree (Holy crap cheap too)
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performan...0002/-1?CT=999

 

ive a got a newly built 383 with shortfill upto the freeze plugs, no over heating issues atall, also got the T & D shaft rockers, forged pistons, etc, so what do you think I could spin that upto??

 

It has to have a big single plane intake. Light weight internals, Heads that flow about 300 CFM intake. High quality springs. A solid roller cam with enough duration and lift to allow the motor to make higher rpm power. I also advanced the cam 4 degrees to enhance higher rpm cylinder filling in exchange of lower peak numbers.

Mine has been run into the 7500 rev limiter for years and then a quickey refresh of just rings, valve springs, and bearings and has been doing it ever since.

 

My new 427ci will be going to 7500+RPM land this spring. You don't need a small motor anymore to get it singing. You just need the heads and cam and everything else to handle the RPM's like gkull said.

Here's an old vid of my 406ci at 6500RPM it went to 7000RPM no problems

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf0KLf05Tok

 

Guru
Theres a ton of advantages to getting rid of 23 degree (will call them low runner standard heads), if you were going to all the expensive stuff needed to run 18 to 12 degree heads you would truely want the raised runner in even the 18 degree. Theres just more advantages then I want to hunt and peck about, the raised runner itself alone is a big advantage on itself alone. The vavles are at least .500 longer in some heads even longer valves, that makes the pocket deeper the roof is raised up the floor of the port is raised so the whole runner becomes straiter, the area is gone where in standard 23 degree heads because of the push rod location it has the entrance to the runner pinched off real bad. theres just tons of better stuff shallower combustion chambers, exhaust runners raised straitened out a lot bigger and the spread port version is even better, then theres the valve angle itself advantages the outer edges of the valves are pulled away more from the cylinder this makes it easier for the cylinder to pull air in around the valve on that side of the valve, even the fact that the air being pulled in through the runner being directed more torward the center of the cylinder helps. the chambers are a little bigger round but shallower this gets them bigger valves for the intake side, valve location beside angles are all changed. The bigger dia chamber is the reason you have to have a big bore even though any high reving engine you want as big a bore as you can get your hands on anyway.

 

Crank the rpm up higher 7500 is not high.

 

Oh OK sorry didn't know that

 

You got more torque then your tires can handle anyway.

what brand of engine tools are not chinese.

 

Any brand that you have lasted you more than 6 months