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The 77 got stuck on the road today after getting off the HWy. Brakes were smoking and the car was unable to roll anymore. The brakes locked out. Anyway I let it cool and it was able to drive a few blocks, just enough to make it to my garage. It felt like it was dragging and I totally lost my brake pedal on this ride back. Pedal went to floor after cool down. I used my E brake and 1st gear to get home. I jacked up car, removed rear wheels and all looked fine for the rear. (BTW brake fluid was still in resevoir as normal). Front drivers side wheel was almost impossible to spin . I opened the bleeder valve and it loosened up and spun freely. Car has new pads and rotors < than 6 months. I replaced master cylinder 2 yrs ago & new rubber brake hoses 5 years ago. New brake lines to rear 7 years ago.
I'm thinking proportioning valve?? I am going to have a hell of a time getting that thing off though. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and will try again in am. Could this be the proportioning valve causing the problem??
The 77 got stuck on the road today after getting off the HWy. Brakes were smoking and the car was unable to roll anymore. The brakes locked out. Anyway I let it cool and it was able to drive a few blocks, just enough to make it to my garage. It felt like it was dragging and I totally lost my brake pedal on this ride back. Pedal went to floor after cool down. I used my E brake and 1st gear to get home. I jacked up car, removed rear wheels and all looked fine for the rear. (BTW brake fluid was still in resevoir as normal). Front drivers side wheel was almost impossible to spin . I opened the bleeder valve and it loosened up and spun freely. Car has new pads and rotors < than 6 months. I replaced master cylinder 2 yrs ago & new rubber brake hoses 5 years ago. New brake lines to rear 7 years ago.
I'm thinking proportioning valve?? I am going to have a hell of a time getting that thing off though. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and will try again in am. Could this be the proportioning valve causing the problem??
This is fairly common. As mentioned above, you need to replace the flex hoses at each caliper. They get old, and swell between the layers. This traps fluid in the caliper putting pressure on the rotor effectively locking up your brakes. That's why the wheel turned when you released fluid.
Replace all four, inspect all the rotors and pads, and make sure you don't have any fluid leaks to tend to.
sorry dogboy,but you will also need to replace the pads on that side.(most likely)If it got that hot, inspect the entire assy.carefully. good idea to replace the flexhose's too. Ran into the same issue on a 66 coupe I was working on,so dont feel like the lone ranger.
This is fairly common. As mentioned above, you need to replace the flex hoses at each caliper. They get old, and swell between the layers. This traps fluid in the caliper putting pressure on the rotor effectively locking up your brakes. That's why the wheel turned when you released fluid.
Replace all four, inspect all the rotors and pads, and make sure you don't have any fluid leaks to tend to.
This is an undetectable problem by visual inspection but very common with the aftermarket junk hoses.
UPDATE.....
Found the problem and fixed it . After pulling all wheels and checking hose, etc. nothing looked bad. I found a ton of sludge in the front master cylinder chamber. It seems that the rubber sealing gasket deformed itself and started to decompose gunking up the brake fluid to the point that it plugged it up and locked out the front brakes. New Master cylinder and complete flush using synthetic Brake fluid and all seems fine. Rotors feel good no wobble.
I would still ditch all the rubber brake hoses and replace them with the flexible stainless steel ones and never worry about them again. I have had mine on the car for 17 years! Don't try that with rubber brake hoses!
Solved the same issue, bought myself new Goodridge SS lines.
I know they are only hoses but look at them what quality, excellent. Braided with silicon cover. Guaranteed forever.