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gkull.....have you ever ran the vette,or whatever on the Silver Crown Classic there in Nevada?I have yet to make it,but have always dreamed of running it.I will.....
I read in Hot Rod mag some years back where a all aluminum BB 69 Camaro ran over 200 mph there,and was running on 7 cylinders.
The same guy owned a Fox bodied Stang that ran 177 I think it was.
My 75 L82 w/a mild rebuild,4 gear,and 3.55s out back has seen the 137 w/more left,and the 6x2 DZ in the 68 w/4 gear,and 3.55s in the assend has seen 146 w/alittle more on the table,but had a bald Goodyear Eagle w/belts showing,so thought the envelope was pushed fur enough...that day.New haeds,and cam combo should be done at the machine shop today.
Article you read was them pulling big red out of retirement going to an all aluminum big block around 870 hp.
This is its past references lol.
Yr 1989
silver state classic
big red destroys the course record.
94 mile course 27 minutes 54 seconds
average speed for the course 197.99
top speed caught on radar 222
69 camaro
540, 800 hp
Iron block
aluminum heads
Jerico 4 speed
197.99 average speed on a public road
with a 69 camaro even if it has
some tubing, nascar type suspension.
wow.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Dec 24, 2008 at 02:06 AM.
Article you read was them pulling big red out of retirement going to an all aluminum big block around 870 hp.
This is its past references lol.
Yr 1989
silver state classic
big red destroys the course record.
94 mile course 27 minutes 54 seconds
average speed for the course 197.99
top speed caught on radar 222
69 camaro
540, 800 hp
Iron block
aluminum heads
Jerico 4 speed
197.99 average speed on a public road
with a 69 camaro even if it has
some tubing, nascar type suspension.
wow.
Lord Love a Duck......
major hauling.....and for a Camaro brick too boot.....
One more point. Most production automobiles are lifting bodies. Lifting bodies tend to make lift about the quarter chord point. In technical terms this means there is a positive pitching moment (nose up). In simple terms, as speed increases the front end gets lighter more rapidly than the rear. Earlier there was a post that said add a rear spoiler before addressing the front. The safest approach is to dial the front in first and then balance the car's front and rear lift with the rear wing or spoiler. This is the approach that race car aerodynamicists use. Adding a rear spoiler or wing (reducing rear lift) with out addressing the greater front lift actually increases the pitching moment and makes the front end get light at lower speeds.
Not to say addressing both front and rear isn't 100% required, however, I personally would rather have directional stability (for the most part) with wheel slip. Infact the wheel slip from lack of rear traction acts like a rev limiter telling the driver you might be going a bit too fast...
I have no disagreement with the basic theory of lift 101. Was just observing that by placing the body near the ground, things are different than in free flowing air. It is operating close to the ground which facilitates the practicality of creating a sufficient pressure drop beneath a body so as to generate downforce with a shape which would otherwise lift, by obstruction, deflection, diffusion or whatever means.
Having never been fortunate enough to have benefited from having comprehensive setup simulation software (have run with Pi and Stack acquisition, tho), while finding my way around during the first laps on a given track I found it a good bit less expensive to just follow the initial setup advice given me before moving ASAP to optimizing. As for loosing parts off of the car, if not for providence I wouldn't be here from the rear wing mount failure I suffered at IRP. Had nothing to do with my skill, or lack thereof, and was one of those times when it was definitely better to be lucky than good.
Check out Bosch's LapSim software, it is a little pricey at $7500.
For the price of the Pi system you should be able to get LapSim and a DL1 with a bunch of $ left over.
Getting a faster driver to allow you to log their laps in your car will allow you to uncover track segment opportunities. The best way to start is with the DL1 then expand to the LapSim.
Tis always better to be lucky than good as long as the luck holds out...
you get 4x the drag, it's true, but the power required to produce a force at 200mph is double that of the force at 100mph (assuming constant gear ratios). if you take the drag increasing 4x over the 100-200mph section, and multiply that by the fact that power increases 2x for the same force at twice the speed, 2x4=8.
(note- it has been about 5 years since i last really cracked a physics book. my current job lets me feel all the benefits of physics, but eliminate the math
Yes, Aerodynamic drag force goes up with the square of vehicle speed. In equation form D = C * V * V where C is a constant (see my earlier post). So the drag at 100 mph is D1 = C * 100 * 100. The drag force at 200 is D2 = C * 200 * 200. D2/D1 = (200 * 200)/(100 * 100) = 4. Now on to horsepower. Power = Force * Velocity. P = C * V * V * V. P1 = C * 100 * 100 * 100. P2 = C * 200 * 200 * 200. So P2/P1 = 8.
Yes, Aerodynamic drag force goes up with the square of vehicle speed. In equation form D = C * V * V where C is a constant (see my earlier post). So the drag at 100 mph is D1 = C * 100 * 100. The drag force at 200 is D2 = C * 200 * 200. D2/D1 = (200 * 200)/(100 * 100) = 4. Now on to horsepower. Power = Force * Velocity. P = C * V * V * V. P1 = C * 100 * 100 * 100. P2 = C * 200 * 200 * 200. So P2/P1 = 8.
I had my 69 small block up to 130 mph. The valve were starting to float and the front end was getting light so I shut it down. I would suspect my 73 big block with more torque and front end weight would do better than that but haven't tried yet.
Now my 2003 Z06.... It just starts to live at 125 mph and has two gears to go.
Thats why I asked for these earlier! "Anyone got a cheap set of wings and tailplane available for me - prefferably off a jet fighter (I guess off a Sabre or Phantom would look best on a C3) I am sure with a little bit of work I can graft them to my C3 - hey, I don't have to worry then about that 'airborne feeling' at 120 mph - 'cos I will be airborne' "
I ran my 80' at the Nevada Sierra 100 in 1993. I was Clocked on Radar at 168 MPH and I was running in there 130 MPH Class wich was the fastest Class I could run without a Roll Cage. A general rule is that it takes 300 HP to run 160 MPH and it takes 600 HP to Run 200. The John Greenwood Twin Turbo Big Block Widebody cars were known to run 220 + at the Musanne Straight at Lemans and get the Crowd cheering them on untill they broke. Oh, and the 80-82's are the sliperest of the C3's it said so in the sales brochure.
My 79' without the chin spoiler goes 135 mph in less than 10 seconds in the quartermile. most likely will reach over 150 mph in the quarter once I use the nitrous.
My 79' without the chin spoiler goes 135 mph in less than 10 seconds in the quartermile. most likely will reach over 150 mph in the quarter once I use the nitrous.
Yes, to that! I have driven a fat brick 69 Camero to 8.56@158 mph in the 1/4
Lots of morons on this forum All you have to do is change the body rake to a nose down attitude. Add a front air dam and the faster you go the more the air presses the front end down.
Yes, to that! I have driven a fat brick 69 Camero to 8.56@158 mph in the 1/4
Lots of morons on this forum All you have to do is change the body rake to a nose down attitude. Add a front air dam and the faster you go the more the air presses the front end down.
to be completely fair, there's a lot of difference between accelerating through 160 in a purpose built car and extended driving at 180 and higher in a "street" car.
Now you guys have me thinking.....I was able to do a 10.78 @ 123.8 mph in the 1/4 and you know it felt good... on the open road Ive gone 120+ for miles (read as 50 miles+ this was years ago.) The one point I have here is that would the roadster windshield collaspe due to the air pressue on it in stock form? On paper the car should go 145 mph at 6400 rpm, the power is there (620 hp). I remember reading years ago that the 69 L88 Rdstr by Owens had the windshield cut down 4 inches and reinforced. They also used various gears from 3.70 (like mine) to 3.36 and could get up to around 170+. Note that this is the same basic power but the profile of the car is changed. The stock windshield would surely collapse with-out mods. Your Thoughts