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So, I'm in the middle of a COMPLETE rebuild and modification of my 75's suspension, and noticed that the bushings that hold the differential mount (the ~3inch rubber bushings on the outer end of the differential mount crossmember) looked a little cracked and broken. looking through ecklers and VB+P websites, i cannot seem to find the bushings. is there a special name for them?
also, is there a poly replacement for them?
in addition, where can i get replacement bumpstops for the lower front control arms?
VB&P has them for sure- I got a pair last winter. Differential Crossmember Mount bushings.
No idea on the NHRA rules, but it seems like a pretty good idea. I've seen the damage of a halfshaft failure- it ain't pretty.
I just ordered a set from Mid America. Showed up in maybe 3-4 days.
Also I believe I saw the control arm bumpstops from them as well. Their catalog is fantastic for its pictures. If you get on the list, youll have a catalog for every season.
Brent.
Last edited by MN-Brent; Dec 21, 2008 at 07:29 PM.
I've never seen any poly bushings available. If you want some to help locate the rear suspension better you'll have to fabricate some; that's what I did.
I've never seen any poly bushings available. If you want some to help locate the rear suspension better you'll have to fabricate some; that's what I did.
could you give me more information about your fabrication? i'd prefer to avoid reinventing the wheel if i could.
also, i see that VB+P sells some sort of reinforcement (looks like a billet insert) and the description simply says "you need these." anyone know what they are or even used them?
Here's how I made mine. I started off using a polyurethane caster from a farm store of all places, and cut the wheel out of it. I left the ID a little small and forced it onto the frame using a 1/4" steel plate you can see in my diagram.
Since I didn't have a means of making a custom bushing, I had to take this multi-piece aproach to make it work. The rubber pads keeps the gear noise to a minimum.
Oh yeah, one thing to note about my setup. It raises the rear differential about 5/8" so you can lower the rear of the car without upsetting the half shaft angles.
Last edited by Jason Staley; Dec 23, 2008 at 06:08 AM.
The billet plate pretty much locks the mount together, usually you see them on high horsepower drag cars. Pretty cheap insurance for 90$ mounts.
well, the car will have around 585 crank hp and will make many passes at the drag strip, so i guess i'll either do a custom setup like jason's or buy the billet plates.
Here's how I made mine. I started off using a polyurethane caster from a farm store of all places, and cut the wheel out of it. I left the ID a little small and forced it onto the frame using a 1/4" steel plate you can see in my diagram.
Since I didn't have a means of making a custom bushing, I had to take this multi-piece aproach to make it work. The rubber pads keeps the gear noise to a minimum.
Oh yeah, one thing to note about my setup. It raises the rear differential about 5/8" so you can lower the rear of the car without upsetting the half shaft angles.
That's how I did mine, only minus the poly bushings and rubber pads and I welded the plates to the cross member. The bolt alone keeps things centered. Yes there is some gear noise....
well, the car will have around 585 crank hp and will make many passes at the drag strip, so i guess i'll either do a custom setup like jason's or buy the billet plates.
thanks a bunch, guys.
-jeff
Consider the halfshaft loops...and a driveshaft loop.
Consider the halfshaft loops...and a driveshaft loop.
driveshaft loop is already in the plan, halfshaft loops are likely. i dont have an NHRA rulebook here with me, but i will check when i get back near it if the halfshaft loops are required. i'm sure they can't be too tough to fabricate.
driveshaft loop is already in the plan, halfshaft loops are likely. i dont have an NHRA rulebook here with me, but i will check when i get back near it if the halfshaft loops are required. i'm sure they can't be too tough to fabricate.
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