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OK, Finally got the rollbar I ordered about 2 months ago from http://www.ioportracing.com It takes that long because they custom fabricate the bar for your particular Vette. Their website has all the specs. The price was $229.00 plus s&h. It comes ready to mount to the chassis which means you have to cut holes in the inner fender wells so it can be bolted/welded to the upper chassis rails. However, I did not want to do that so I cut the legs down a couple inches and had my buddy weld new pads on the legs of the bar and bolted it to the inner wells over the carpeting. Kinda-like my own custom install. If you want the bar to be a functioning rollbar it must be mounted to the chassis rails. The way I installed it is only for looks. The bar comes painted black, however, I stripped it and polished up the metal and urathened it. I would like to eventually have it chromed. Here are some pics.....
.....which means you have to cut holes in the inner fender wells so it can be bolted/welded to the upper chassis rails. ......
Can this be done without lifting the body - are the connection points to the frame accessible through the wheelwells - I've always wanted to do this but had no interest in lifting the body even partway off the frame to do it.
Looking good. I emailed them a couple of weeks ago about pictures. Not a bad fab job. Which roll bar is it? I remember the had about three different types.
Fauxrs, There is always a way to do it, it just takes longer! You shouldn't have to remove the body to put a roll bar in.
I would worry about safety! The inner fiberglass panels are very thin. I'm not saying that it will happen. But I wouldn't want those bars flying loose and beating me up in such a small cabin area.
To weld in my bars the guy used a 2.5 inch hole saw to punch through and weld around the 1 3/4 pipes. Then he took 4 X 4 sqaure of thin sheet metal and punched a 2 inch hole and sawed them in half. So you then mount them over the body hole around the pipe. Screw them in place and use industrial silver ducting chalk to seal. So the body has no leaks or squeaks.
fauxrs.....I dont believe you have to lift body to mount the bar......However you must cut a hole to accomadate your working space to bolt/weld bar to chassis. In other words....a big hole. You could aways re-glass the holes over. Also you have to move fuel lines over, due to them running right on top of the rails in the way of the bars mounting location.
Mike C. My version is the Street Bar #71380. It will fit a coupe from 63-82.
L8TER, Paul.
I like the way that that bar looks, were it doesnt take up quite as much space... that said do the t-tops still fit back there? I would think they do, but...
How is head room? Look almost like you could get a nice sized wack in the head... but then again i'm looking at a picture ;)
I understand that it's for asthetic purposes only... I'm not one to tell people how to do their own cars, but I'd at least hide the flanges and bolts somehow... maybe cut holes in the carpet at least...
Looks really nice, though. I have the same questions about fitting T-Tops.
-Jason
This roll bar is well back out of the way. Just look at your own car and visualize how it's back by the rear window. It won't effect TTops or head room
Yes, the t-tops fit in their usuall spot with no interference from the bar. Take a look at my t-top straps....there is plenty of room for the t's. Also the bar is mounted behind the seats fo no chance of crowning yourself. One of the sales pitches for the bar is that all functions of interior will remain as orig.
blue72.....I thought about putting flanges under carpeting, which still can be done, but I kinda like it that way. :D
Ylose.....Thanks for the compliment!!