Merry Christmas Rick!!!!No intake in the Christmas thread.
I will check on the side of the block.When I looked there was some time back when the engine was in the car,and read that some of these cars had the stamping there,but didn't pay attention to that today when i got it out.Also,note the "O rods",so they are the stock GM hi-performance rods,so......that have been polished to relieve a fatigue starting point.
I was on ebay looking at cranks,and pistons,and that is going to run me like a grand to bring this back to a 302.Ouch!I would stroke it,but i don't think that my heads will work well w/them,and the cam I selected would be pretty mild in a 383.
I think that I am going to just freshen this up w/the .040 guts,and build it.I have a couple steel cranks from early truck 350s here.I want to rev this thing,so that may be a good idea.

 

That is what I would do. If you can see the crosshatch and it don't use oil, a forged crank, those rods, those pistons, new rings, new bearings, lightly hone the cylinders to seat the rings and check all clearances. Balance the assembly!! New cam, lifters, heads, springs and pushrods. Fix the intake and reassemble. ARP Main, Head and Rod bolts are a good idea if you are going to rev it. Don't worry about getting to 11 to 1 compression, your close enough. Merry Christmas.

 

Looks like typical GM cast crank to me.
vbd:
suggest you measure stroke ... maybe block's an old 302 ... with a 327/350 cast crank? ... nothing wrong with that ... but if that block's valuable to someone else's car ... I'd build another block ... even if I had to wait.

I have year 2000 sealedpower (TRW) piston catalog that id's their p/n 244P as a cast piston for mopar slant6 ... 3.400" bore ... 1.740" compression height ... NO valve pockets. The # 244P you see may not be a part # at all ... but may be a production control/lot/tool # or similar.

 

Don't have a lot to add here...other than this is an interesting thread. Back in the early 70's a 350 crank in a 302 would be a stroker motor I guess huh?

If some Z28 dude wanted the block...I'd let him have it for some crazy price and go get a Dart and build a killer motor!! Spend the extra money on good heads and you could have a lot of fun here!


The other thing is I think the intake is real cool!


JIM

 

 

I checked my 350 LT1 block which came as a 350/370 LT1 short block which I bought new in 1971. It has 2482 center caps also.

 

Those pistons I bet are a 2244 the same as the 2256 forged pistons

 

I have a set of Brodix aluminum heads fresh from the machine shop that we are going to pick up tomorrow.Hopefully,these will do for this application.
I would have bought this car anyways,but the intake,and the exhaust is what sealed the deal.I found it on Craigskist w.no pictures,and got 3 camera phone pics,and was on my way across the country....

 

It may be another 4.I will look here in a few minutes.I have to pull the wifes car in the garage,and clean it up,and add some goodies she got for Christmas.HUH??!!

 

It is a cast crank according to the numbers that I pulled from it.
What is a sfe RPM one can go w/a cast crank?I ask this,cause this engine has already been balanced.It has a aluminum flywheel too from yesteryear.The engine probably doesn't have 4k on it,and very nice inside.I do have to buy a pickup for the Moroso pan that I am going to run w/the accusump,and need to replace a few of the braided lines.
I just hate to spend the money on this when it ran perfect when it was in the car,besides a vacuum leak.I am hoping the new cam,etc.,and the heads will bring this to life alittle.This isn't going to be a race car,but hopefully,a respectable little run around town/trip car.
Thanks guys for the input.

 

They are the 2244Ps.So...the old TRW forged pistons?
Thanks....

Answered my own question.They are sealed power forged units from way back,and are identical to the TRWs mentioned above.

 

Forged cranks counterweighted for heavier forged pistons.
Cast cranks counterweighted for lighter cast pistons.

This guy used forged pistons on a cast crank paid money to have weight added to the counterweights.

How sure are you those are forged pistons, you can see in the picture
its a cast crankshaft.

 

Yes the crank is cast.I just ran thepiston numbers,and they are sealed power forged=to the TRW2256s forged pieces.
I am sitting here at the desk in the shop.I will run out there and turn the bottom end over.I didn't see the addition of metal like on the 496 here,but you can see where it has been balanced.

 

It looks like only the rear crank throw is drilled additionally,and the front balancer has had some work done to it.The flywheel is a Harvey aluminum...very light.So??????
The pistons are 0 deck heigth,or come all the way to the top of the cylinders,but does not come above the deck.I knew that theblock had been decked because the engine ID is gone.
W/64 cc Brodix heads,0 deck,and I guess,the 4valve reliefs are rated at 6.1cc.What compression ratio?W/what head gaskets?
The cam is the 278s w/1.6 rockers.The heads are massaged,and I had the race flow valves installed w/the springs to handle the cam,and new retainers/locks.
This is NO engine compared to what you guys build,but what will the characteristics of this be?Thisis in a 68 w/M21,and 3.55s w/a good clutch setup.

PLEASE...understand here...I have had some serious cars,butnot a engine builder like you guys are here.If you want compressors,plasma cutters,body hammers,the best paint guns,etc...bodywork related...I have.
Not cause this is MY car,but you would have to see this car.It's old,and needs alot of attention.It's sat most it's life,but when I say that no expense was spared...that's not bull....Every nut,and bolt on this car is chrome,all the suspension,the trans,rearend are polished to mirror finish.Chrome bellhousing,driveshaft,cylinder heads,etc.James Milino built the most famous 23T there is,so I am not trying to say he was a racer,but saying...he had/has money,and the people around him that knew what they were doing.This is also,early 70s technology.He told me he spent 40k to build this car in the early 70s before he put it on the ISCA circuit,and it was labeled "Americas Best Roadster".It's tired now,but the engine is brand new inside.There's no where in the cylinders,and I have spun this to alittle over 7k.Besides the 6x2 being a pita to tweek...this car runs like a dream,and has alittle azz.
I am only after a cheap way to make this a respectable little toy.

What pickup # do I need for the Moroso SBC road race pan w/the lick outs on both sides to set up w/my accusump?
Cheers,and thanks for the help.

 

Friend:
Go measure stroke & post here.

Then, when you've carefully ensured it's at TDC ... carefully measure how far (if any) the highest part of piston is below deck ... & post here.

My 2000 trw catalog does not list any 2244 ... the clevite-mahle interchange does not recognize "competitors" 2244 either ... nor L2244, nor L2244F etc etc. Maybe older references show it but mine do not.

Take another pic of INSIDE of piston so we can see up into underhead ... post here and clearly describe what it is ... from that we can more accurately tell if it's forged/cast. I'm looking for absence or presence of a distinct heavy cast pattern that sorta looks like crosshatch ... underhead

 

I will do that jackson,and thanks.I found the piston info. when I typed "piston #2244p" in my yahoo,and it took me to different forums,etc.
I will go take some pictures right now,and measure the stroke,but no fancy engine measuring pieces here,but will work w/what I have......
Give me a few minutes...
Thanks....

 

Believe the 3.48 crank has two notches on the flywheel flange,
3.25 crank one, 3.00 crank a completely round flange.
If I'm remembering right.

 

Okay.....I brought the #1 piston to TDC,and rocked it back,and forth to make sure I was at it's highest point.These are the first 2 pictures.It is sitting even w/the block.
I moved the #1 piston down to its lowest point,and rocked it to make sure,and it is 3.50 inches w/a cheap measuring apuratus.(SP!!!)
The other pictures are the bottom end.
And,does anyone know what the numbers beside the oil filter means?It's N56,then below that 371,and below that 386.I don't see no other stamping there.

 

I ran the numbers yesterday,and it is a cast 350 crank.
The 1178 cranks for the 69DZ,and the 68 L79s that I have had are round w/a notch out of them,and the forged casting.
I am pretty sure that this is 350 guts.The rods are the "o rods" that are GM hi-perf. 5.7s,the pistons come up as Sealed Power forged pieces,and the crank is a cast 350 crank,so.....I'm pretty sure of this.???

 

Definitely forged pistons and a 350 crank.

Now you just need to find a big $$ buyer for that block!

Or just freshen what you have, keep RPM around 6000-6500 max and have some fun.


JIM