Hi corvetteforum types, I am new to this site and new to the Corvette as well. I just bought my first Corvette on December 8th 2008, a 1979 C3 and I am now having an intermittent problem starting the car. At times I will turn the key and it will click, and maybe clunk but will not turn the car over. Other times it will turn just fine and the car fires right up.
I just replaced the battery yesterday and thought the problem was fixed because the car fired right up. However, after changing the oil and filter I tried to start the car to back up off the ramps and again it wouldn't start. So I don't think it is the battery. I have checked all the wiring I can think of, the battery cables and also under the car at the starter and solenoid and what looks like some kind of relay as well.
If anybody can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it!

Thanks

Bill

 

My 73 is doing the same thing, BUT not anywhere's near as often as it used to before I changed the short cable that runs from the engine block to the frame. So, i know that it's a ground issue. During thoses times when it won't start, I turn the key to the start position, hold it there for a couple of seconds, turn the key all the way back to the off position and then it always starts when I try it again.

 

I appreciate the reply.
I'm thinking this may be a starter solenoid issue. I'd like to inspect the inside of the solenoid.
Could someone please explain how I can get the solenoid off? Can I just remove the "cap" to access the insides or does the solenoid need to be removed?
Is there a "how to" thread to help with this? Thanks again.

 

Before you start to tear apart any parts .......check timing!!!!!
If it is set to far advanced you might have a starting problem....
especially when engine is warm.
Hope this helps

 

Sounds like the solenoid to me. Had to replace mine for the same reason, Did you know when the solinoid goes bad, the car wont start while spinning over till you release the key. In other words you could bump the key an release it, car would start. You could hold the key in the start postion for 2 mins an the car would not start (no fire) soon as you release the key it fires. So we have 2 problems that come from a bad solenoid, 1st is the dreaded click. 2nd is no fire while spinning over.

 

Hi dmaaero, when you replaced the solenoid, did you have any problem getting it off? I worked on this yesterday and couldn't get to the bolt holding it on at the back. Did you just remove the solenoid or did you need to remove the starter as well?

Bill

 

Does your no-start condition show up after you've been driving the car and it's up to operating temperature? If so, it's heat soak caused by the exhaust warming the solenoid. After the solenoid cools, it will restart.

Put a heavy duty spring in the solenoid.

 

No, it doesn't matter whether it is a cold start or already warmed up. In fact, I'm now thinking that it might be the neutral safety switch on the transmission from what I've gathered. I don't have a manual yet, does anybody know where the neutral switch is located exactly and how to check it?

Thanks

Bill

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. After checking all the grounds and large cables and wires, the neutral safety switch (located under the center console with AT, or on the transmission if MT) and the under carpet connector are next. The latter was a problem I had had in my '78 which defied solution for quite some time.

Hot start problem trouble shooter: Often a problem arises when trying to re-start a hot or warm engine. The usual blame is put on the solenoid, but often the problem is with weak current supplied to the solenoid.

To determine whether this is the culprit, get a universal push button starter switch and a few feet of 12 gauge wire. Mount the push button switch on the firewall (can also be used to bump the engine a bit with the hood open when setting TDC or lashing valves). Wire the switch between the S terminal and the Batt terminal (large upper post) of the solenoid. Ensure that ring terminals are used on these posts and at the switch for good connections.

When the car won't start, open the hood and press the new starter button delivering battery voltage directly to the S terminal. If the engine cranks, the starter and solenoid are good, but the circuit carrying battery voltage to the S terminal of the solenoid is faulty and has too much resistance. Likely resistance points are the fuse contacts, ignition switch, any connector, and neutral safety switch.

(This switch can also be used to start the engine as well. Make sure that the trans is in park or neutral because there is no safety switch in this circuit; have the emergency brake set, and/or someone holding the brakes, turn on the ignition switch, and then crank with this firewall starter switch.)

Good luck troubleshooting!

 

Thanks larrywalk, I'll be working on this today and will post what I find.

Cheers

Bill

 

Clean the engine ground from the battery to the frame before you do anything radical.
.

 

I just replaced the starter (came with new solenoid) an a lifetime warrenty all for 35 bucks. My dads 81 an he wanted to work on it like your doing, i wouldn"t let him I also had the no fire when spinning over problem, so i just replaced everything.

 

I had problems with my 78. Only difference was I never-got a click. It would start with a jump or after it sat for a couple hours even if it was cold when the problem arose. After checking every thing mentioned here including a hand held switch. I replaced the starter. We have a local rebuild shop and they found a intermittent short in the armature. No problems for three years.