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I bought a complete rotating assembly through my engine builder for my camaro 2 years ago. It came with an Eagle 4340 forged crank, Eagle h-beam rods with the better L-19 APR rod bolts. SRP pistons, with rings and Clevite bearings. A complete kit will be cheaper in the long run.
You can get away with a cast assembly if your staying under 500 HP.
By buying a kit you are guaranteed that all the components will properly work together. You should buy the factory balanced unit also. My Eagle balanced kit was spot on, according to my machine shop.
I will say piece it out...the cost won't be that much more, depending on the quality of the pistons...do your homework and buy what's withing your budget
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Grumpy 427
I bought a complete rotating assembly through my engine builder for my camaro 2 years ago. It came with an Eagle 4340 forged crank, Eagle h-beam rods with the better L-19 APR rod bolts. SRP pistons, with rings and Clevite bearings. A complete kit will be cheaper in the long run.
You can get away with a cast assembly if your staying under 500 HP.
Complete assembly where you can pick the components to be used with the crank. But that would have to be assembled and balanced by the crankshaft company such as Moldex Tool Co. in Dearborn Hts. Mich. You order 10 pistons and 10 rods so you have a couple of spares at the same time getting all the individual balance figures in case of a major disaster to put it back together within a hour depending on the chassis. If the grinder is unable to get the brand of components you want then you supply them. .
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I always part it out, I seem to always find something wrong with one part or another.
In my last build brand the new stroker Eagle rods with ARP 2000 bolts had to be resized and the 4340 Eagle crank was not straight, I bought a Callies crank and it was right on the money
I would buy a complete assembly. I'm not talented enough to get it to work proberly on my own. I'd hate nothing more to wreck a motor because of some 2 dollars part I installed wrong or torqued a part wrong, etc.
There isn't a two dollar part in this whole mix...you choose the best pieces available for your budget, not what another person thinks you should buy in a kit.
I will do much more research but at this time I am leaning to the kit but I want a Callies crank. Their product seems very well thought out.
I know they are expensive but I may try to use the dual edelbrock that came with the 454 to save a bit.
Thanks fellas,
Sly
There isn't a two dollar part in this whole mix...you choose the best pieces available for your budget, not what another person thinks you should buy in a kit.
This is as much true as my previous statement about using a kit. I think the final word is, have enough cash left over for your machinist to properly check everything out. Either way is fine, as long as the numbers are correct.
This is as much true as my previous statement about using a kit. I think the final word is, have enough cash left over for your machinist to properly check everything out. Either way is fine, as long as the numbers are correct.
Piece it out ... but ...
All components must be closely checked-measured ... especially "affordable imports".
KNOW what you're doing, do Not rely on either kit supplier or piecemeal supplier to take up the slack.
Budget for local balancing; do it after clearancing & test-fit.
If you're proficient, measure everything yourself or budget for a pro's knowledge & experience.
Saving $50 on cheapest crank might cost an extra $100 to get it to balance right ... so Get to know your local machine shop pros ... they've handled lotsa brands & they usually know what's junk ... how WELL you know em's directly proportional to sharing w/ you.
Piece it out ... but ...
All components must be closely checked-measured ... especially "affordable imports".
KNOW what you're doing, do Not rely on either kit supplier or piecemeal supplier to take up the slack.
Budget for local balancing; do it after clearancing & test-fit.
If you're proficient, measure everything yourself or budget for a pro's knowledge & experience.
Saving $50 on cheapest crank might cost an extra $100 to get it to balance right ... so Get to know your local machine shop pros ... they've handled lotsa brands & they usually know what's junk ... how WELL you know em's directly proportional to sharing w/ you.
At how many spots do you check the journals with a Micrometer.
And the rod ends?
Sly
At how many spots do you check the journals with a Micrometer.
And the rod ends?
Sly
minimum 4 on rod journals, min 2 on main j's, min 2 on rod ends. But mike can't tell you squat about radius, stroke, bend, twist & index/phase etc ... your local machine shop is your friend. If you don't throw em a bone here & there ... they won't survive ... NO local shop is gonna be sad. If you have it balanced locally, it's easy & not much more $ to have them check the stuff you can't.
minimum 4 on rod journals, min 2 on main j's, min 2 on rod ends. But mike can't tell you squat about radius, stroke, bend, twist & index/phase etc ... your local machine shop is your friend. If you don't throw em a bone here & there ... they won't survive ... NO local shop is gonna be sad. If you have it balanced locally, it's easy & not much more $ to have them check the stuff you can't.
Gotcha...I would have to replace my OD MIC anyway.
Give the work to the shop, and keep the Economy moving too ...A Win/Win!!!
From a Great source and member..
Thanks for the tips jackson. You know how much I value your Opinions.
All great guys and talent in this thread. My best ever!!!
Dart Performance in my area!!! S/E/ MI.
CNC-Motorsports has a number of "kit" options, I've used quite a few of these. I have one of them in my 383 and also my 400, scat 9000 crank, 6"rods scat, probe forged f/t pistons. balance job was right on both are internal balanced. Great street/strip parts, I don't cut either any slack.
Last edited by qwik-tripp; Jan 2, 2009 at 11:45 AM.
Reason: company name
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
While kits are a good thing for many build up projects, they do tend to box you into a corner when it comes to compression ratio / cam combinations. Fortunately, that corner happens to be where a lot of applications fall. That aside, I've rarely ever found an off-the-shelf piston which met all of my own preferences, so I find the menu of available kits a bit limited.
FWIW, given my proximity to Eagle, if anyone's interested in seeing what I might can do for them...
While kits are a good thing for many build up projects, they do tend to box you into a corner when it comes to compression ratio / cam combinations. Fortunately, that corner happens to be where a lot of applications fall. That aside, I've rarely ever found an off-the-shelf piston which met all of my own preferences, so I find the menu of available kits a bit limited.
FWIW, given my proximity to Eagle, if anyone's interested in seeing what I might can do for them...
I'm looking at Dart or Mancini In my neck of the woods for right now, on a respected recommendation, but thanks and I will file it!!