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Ok so Ive been doing some research for the past few days and ive come to some questions that I need answers. Im converting to electric fans ok. Can I use the stock wiring from my original electric fan (never worked but gets 12v). I was wondering if I could tie into it for power and change my thermocoupler to a diffrent temp Say, 170* to 180* from its existing 238* to 201* temp. Im also upgrading to a bigger alternator. Would this work? It sounds easier to use the components that I already have rather than going through the themostat housing. Thank you for any help on this.
I would be careful using the stock fan wiring. If I am thinking correctly the stock electric fan was only for auxiliary use. Wasn’t it a smaller fan than you would be installing? What I am getting at is the wires would probably be undersized for the new current load. I have dual spals and am running 10 gauge wires to power the fans from the relays. You could just replace the thermal switch in the head like you were talking about, but I would be sure the original wires can handle the additional current. I’m sure others will chime in on this that are more familiar with your year car.
79,
I'd suggest that you use the original fan wiring to power a relay that gets it power throught a 10 gauge wire straight from the alternator. Providing the original switch turns the fans on at the temp you want, then you could leave it stock, but definitely use a relay to power your new fan.
Thanks guys. Well I didnt want to(cause the expence) Ive decided to go with dual spals. I was going to use the taurus fan but Ive been reading around and I dont ever want to do this again(not that they are bad) I also have a seperate question, I just want to hook them up on the same power so that they both come on at the same time(with therm sitch) will I have problems with this? Thank you for patience with my dumb questions.
79 L82's with AC, had an electric fan mounted in the shroud, with a temp sensor in the head set at 235°. the stock setup used power from the ignition switch! to power the fan.
i still have my stock 2 fan setup on my 79L82, but i did like aussiej said, i installed a relay kit from Jegs with a new temp sensor in the thermostat housing set at 200° on 185° off. i use the factory wiring to power the relay only, with a new radiator, waterpump, hoses. it works fine in the hottest of summer temps. plans in the future to install dual elec. fan setup from dewitts like you're planning on, i think you'll need a dual relay setup with those spal fans, because of the current draw, i think its around 33-36 amps total. with about a 4000cfm airflow, good luck.
79,
I'd suggest that you use the original fan wiring to power a relay that gets it power throught a 10 gauge wire straight from the alternator. Providing the original switch turns the fans on at the temp you want, then you could leave it stock, but definitely use a relay to power your new fan.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
7 months to go
Plus running 10 gauge wire will maintain full voltage to the fan.
I also have a seperate question, I just want to hook them up on the same power so that they both come on at the same time(with therm sitch) will I have problems with this? Thank you for patience with my dumb questions.
No problem at all, just wire your relays together so they both come on at the same time with the thermal switch.
Here are the part #’s I used from summit
Fan thermostat SUM-890017 185 on 170 off
2 relays part # 80237
I just bought some 10 gauge wire at a local auto parts store
Ben...I also have a 79, L82 and just converted to electric fans. I know what you're saying about the plug with a hot wire and ground for the old electric fan. To be safe take the hot wire to the old electric fan and use it to trigger a heavy duty relay. Then run at least #10 from the battery connection on your starter with a fusible link to the relay to run your fans. That way your new fan system is not run through your igniton switch. Your relay will be turned off and on by the wiring to the old fan. The fan will run a lot better with power direct from your battery and not put a strain on your ignition switch with the higher amps.
I am running dual flex-a-lites running 12v to a relay and then a thermal fan switch in the manifold. I bought the entire wiring setup as a kit from Painless Wiring.
79 L82's with AC, had an electric fan mounted in the shroud, with a temp sensor in the head set at 235°. the stock setup used power from the ignition switch! to power the fan.
i still have my stock 2 fan setup on my 79L82, but i did like aussiej said, i installed a relay kit from Jegs with a new temp sensor in the thermostat housing set at 200° on 185° off. i use the factory wiring to power the relay only, with a new radiator, waterpump, hoses. it works fine in the hottest of summer temps. plans in the future to install dual elec. fan setup from dewitts like you're planning on, i think you'll need a dual relay setup with those spal fans, because of the current draw, i think its around 33-36 amps total. with about a 4000cfm airflow, good luck.
I, like you, am running a 200* on, 185* off temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. Thermostat is a 180* unit, and once on, the fan never shuts off. I am concerned about this. How does your set up act? Is there a sensor available in say 210* on 195* off?
mine does the same thing, elec. fan runs most of the time. i guess because i'm running the 195* thermost. i dont know of any other sensors except for the factory 235* one.
its been like this for over a year now. no problems. and it gets driven at least 4 days a week. and here in tex. we're still using the ac most days.
you may want to try a switch that is adjustable.
I, like you, am running a 200* on, 185* off temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. Thermostat is a 180* unit, and once on, the fan never shuts off. I am concerned about this. How does your set up act? Is there a sensor available in say 210* on 195* off?
Are you worried about the sensor being bad? What does the temperature do during this time? If it doesn't go down, maybe your cooling system needs attention.
Are you worried about the sensor being bad? What does the temperature do during this time? If it doesn't go down, maybe your cooling system needs attention.
I don't believe the sensor is bad. Usual running temperature is about 190*-195* according to the dash gauge, never above 200*. The 180* thermostat may be the problem, or causing the problem.
Radiator is almost new 4 tube copper from a BB, Edelbrock water pump, Permacool 16" fan.
I don't believe the sensor is bad. Usual running temperature is about 190*-195* according to the dash gauge, never above 200*. The 180* thermostat may be the problem, or causing the problem.
Radiator is almost new 4 tube copper from a BB, Edelbrock water pump, Permacool 16" fan.
If your coolant is 190-195, your thermostat is open, so it doesn't sound like the problem. Are there dead mice and leaves blocking air flow to the front of the radiator?? Is your spoiler in place, etc.?