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If you just want to remove the unit and replace it with another it should take about an hour. Not a big job at all providing it is not a rust bucket back there. Why not DIY. It does not take and great skill to do this. Just unbolting and bolting back in.
I do not have a lift and thought it would be to much to do with out it. Someone told me it was a 10 to 12 hr job.
A lot depends on how rusted things are underneath. If the bushings that mount the crossmemeber in are rusted it can take a little longer but as said without a lift it is a 3 to 4 hour job. It is one of those things that "while your at it" comes into play. Do your ujoints need replacing? Are your strut rods in good condition? What about your front diff mount, that should be rreplaced if it is original. There is a lot underthere tha tcould be worn if it has not been replaced already.
Can certainly be done without a lift, thats how I do them. I remove the exhaust, spare tire box,disconnect the DS,remove spring, pull 1/2 shafts(you can also leave them in), remove struts after marking camber, put tranny jack or floor jack under diff about 1/2 gap, remove the sombero bolts and pry off the diff onto the jack and remove.
So what did you all do put the car up on 4 jack stands and then go from there? And my 77 is not rusted so that is not a problem it has 51000 miles on it and looks good underside. I have been doing a bit of reading since I posted this and found something that said when installation cut the heads off two 1/2-13X1 1/4" bolts and slot the ends. Install these aligning studs into the two below center carrier bolt holes on on each side. Cut the head off one 9/16-18X1 1/4" bolt and slot the end. Install this aligning stud into the carrier underside to aid in reinstalling the strut rod bracket. Also position the yokes and flange at a 45 degree angle for removal and installation. It looks like the rear diff. cover needs to be oof the remove and install the diff? Thanks for all your help.
The job is absolutely doable with the car on jack stands.
You can leave the diff. cover on the rear and drop the rear crossmember which holds the unit up all as one unit. Only one bolt on each side, but you will probably need a puller to free up the bushings where the crossmember connects to the frame. Not too bad a project, really.
Got it done no problems! Changed out the rear, U joints and installed a B&M shift kit all went well and runs so much better! Also did a good detailing on it and then went for a ride. Nice to be able to smoke the tires and leave some black marks in second. I love it!!!! What a difference going from 3.08 to 3.70!!
I'm changing out my rear on Friday wish me luck and thanks for the replies.
I had my rear changed about 30 years ago, I was in the hospital for a few daze, and not up for running for over a week....
it was a PIA.....
it's not that bad a job, really, but it depends on your tools as always, If you going at it with minimal tools you in trouble, but if you have a compressor, air hammers, ratchets, and a fair selection of sockets....no sweat, really....